350 RWHP, Is it possible with bolt ons alone?

I would really like to be around 350 at the rear wheels. Do you guys think it's possible to do with bolt ons alone? I'm inclined to think that it's not, but would like to hear what you guys think.......

That's a lot of $$$$ just to get 350 RWHP N/A....Sad part is the biggest waste is the headers You'd still be slower than a light bolt-on S197 with a 100 shot

I have a friend who did big cams, throttle body, CAI, mid-pipe, axle back, and 4.10's in his 06 GT (manual trans) and put down 324 rwhp. He didn't have the heads done, but had he opted to, I believe 350 rwhp would have been realistic.

Or, just slap on a blower and call it a day.

I would actually like to be a LEGIT 350 RWHP! (I guess, of course, if I keep spending money and don't come close I may resort to your dyno! )

I don't know allot about nitrous, but it's certainly an option!

If I could afford it, I would love to build a blower car! It's a bit more $$$$ than I can afford right now......

Are heads and cams considered a bolt on?

I don't think it is possible without heads or cams. I would think the best you would get would be around 340 RWHP without heads or cams. 350 would be easy with heads and cams...

A Ford 4.6 won't make that kind of power with bolt ons. Not even close. Infact to get a genuine 350rwhp (not a Dynojet or STD figures) it'll take a LOT to make it n/a at all and a whole heap of $$$$$$$$$.

A few bolt ons and a 100 shot of nitrous will see you at or over 400rwhp for far less money. If you want that kind of power all the time the only sensible option is forced induciton. Blower kits are available and will cost similar to a full n/a setup all told (the lower spec blower kits) yet they will still be more drivable and produce more power.

A Whipple or Kenne Bell kit will make over 450rwhp straight off with next to no other mods.

If you want BIG n/a numbers the only other option is to buy an Fbody or GTO. The LSx series of engines respond very well to n/a mods and have the displacement to match it. over 400rwhp with 5.7 litres is quite possible and will still remain streetable and reliable.

Wrong again as usual... 340 RWHP SAE corrected has been done numerouse times without cams or heads. Heads and cams have gotten these cars up to 380 RWHP.

That is about all you got right...

I don't feel like responding to the rest of the crap you posted.


Later on today, I will post a list of mods that will get these cars to 350 RWHP easily...

Ok, could you provide more info on this then please along with a Dyno graph or two so as to substantiate the claims?

BTW - 340rwhp technically isn't 350rwhp

If you say so

Why?

What part was crap, if you don't want me to post it, you need to be more helpful and point out where and what is correct instead of insults.

Cool, but can you include some dynos please (not Dynojets but proper load bearing dynos and SAE corrected running some form of graph smoothing).

Also as you stated EASILY then your list won't be exhaustive, can achieve 350rwhp SAE with only some of the mods listed and in many cases should significantly exceed 350rwhp if all mods are performed. If I misunderstood your statement then I apologise.

Cheers


EDIT:

Just a thought, but as the thread op is asking about making as much power as they can bolt on wise I assumed that they are not wanting to spend $$$$$$ and are also wanting to keep the car for sensible street use and maybe even a DD. Therefore bolt ons along the lines of removing the AC, power steering, alternator and such are not what I was considering. And technically they are not a bolt on as you are not bolting anything on but removing. That leaves induction/exhaust mods, tuning, pulleys, driveline mods and maybe a few others like electric water pump.

If these can genuinly achieve an everyday reliable and usable 350rwhp SAE corrected on a Mustang Dyno then I say woopie and will willingly eat my hat

I'm sure a very aggressive tune and perhaps race fuel to help get there, but I'm sure it can be done. But as gt06 was saying he doesn't want to pay the $$$$ for the F/I, being said, he may not achieve that goal with bolt ons. I'm sure the head work will be very pricey. I guess with just new cams/springs and the usual bolt ons, 330ish would be likely.

+1

Totally agree

TGJ this mature respectful reply earned you an infraction. You know, you really need to hone your interaction skills. Your responses come across as smooth as 20 grit sandpaper on brand new paint.

You are making this easy if I have to use a Mustang Dyno. All I would have to do is bolt my Mustang back together and take it to a Mustang Dyno which is about 2.5 hours away. Mustang Dyno's are VERY EASY to manipulate. All I would have to do is change a few settings and I could show a stock 2005 Mustang GT making 350 RWHP SAE corrected. Using a Dyno-Jet, I wouldn't be able to do that. Dyno-Jet's are the industry standard BTW.

Read this thread. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=725532

All he has is a JLT CAI, Steeda UDP's, Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe, Steeda Axleback exhaust and a custom dyno tune. That car is making 316 RWHP N/A SAE corrected.

I wonder what would happen if he was to add a Meziere electric water pump, CMCV deletes, and long tube headers to his car and have it retuned? How much power do you think he would have? My guess would have him at around 340 RWHP and the car wouldn't be any harder to drive than a stock GT.

Add a set of Comp Stg 3 cams to that and he would be around 360 RWHP.

Here is another car that made 347 RWHP N/A SAE corrected with Cats. http://www.brenspeed.com/tech/compcams.html

A quick recap of the mods for 347 RWHP:

C&L Racer CAI, BBK TB, Pulleys, Delete plates, Comp Stg 3 cams, Kooks Long tube headers, Catted X-pipe, Mac Axleback, Brenspeed tune on a 5 speed maual car. Again another car that is very streetable. Add an electric water pump or remove the cats and it's there. Still doubting that 350 RWHP claim as being tough to get and not being streetable?

If a person was to do the following mods, they would get 350 RWHP at a minimum. It wouldn't matter where they are or what conditions, but in most cases, they would have the HP and could drive the car every day as every accessory is still there and working and on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. The only place where they might not have 350 RWHP is in higher altitude locations like Colorado. They would have to do every mod listed.

CAI( I can't believe I am saying this ) - JLT, C&L Racer or Steeda
Steeda Economy CMCV Deletes
FRPP 3V P&P heads
Comp Stg 3 Cams
Kooks or American Racing Headers Long Tube headers with or without cats
X or H pipe
Meziere Electric Water pump
Steeda UDP's
1 piece driveshaft
Good tune for 91 - 94 octane fuel

Optional items:

BBK 62mm Twin TB
Axleback exhaust of personal choice
Aluminum Flywheel

You would likely get 350 RWHP N/A without adding the heads, I listed them to ensure that the car would make the goal of 350 RWHP N/A in most locations and conditions. Pricing these parts out won't be cheap, a fair low estimate is $6000.00. If you were to not do the heads, you would be looking at around $3500.00 as a fair low estimate. Doing a good chunk of those mods would help later if adding F/I.

Adding every bolt on I mentioned as required or optional will bring you very close to 380 RWHP on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. Race fuel and tuned for it, could push the 400 RWHP mark. The 4.6 3V responds very well to mods.

Sutto is working on a head and cam combo that will get 400 hp to the wheels.

No ****, I never said 340 RWHP = 350 RWHP... Getting these cars to 340 RWHP should be achieveable with bolt ons and not touching the heads or cams, getting beyond that on pump fuel won't happen. That is what I said...

I did not at the time and still do not feel like responding to it. Technically there was nothing wrong with it, it was just referenced as crap. That said, I didn't issue an insult

You will be enjoying that hat...

Will that be on pump fuel or race fuel? 400 RWHP is achievable now on race fuel...

Long Tubes
Intake
Cams
UDP
CMCV deletes

And your easily be around 340-350RWHP It's been done lots of times.

Im surprised no one has brought up an all out Race Tune on 100 Octane. You're bound to pick up some #'s there.

Wow! Allot of great info here!
In terms of what I would like out of my car: 350ish RWHP. I've only had my Mustang for a few months and am trying to wisely choose the best mods for my driving style. Pulling out AC and the like is not for me, I just want something that has decent power and is a good time to drive. In all honesty, I have had a few LS1 cars in my past, so acclimating to the Ford motor is a new thing for me.

Race Tunes on 100+ Octane are available. The problem is not everywhere has 100+ Octane fuel and from what I have seen, it is quite pricey. I already commented to that effect.