393 STROKER KIT. WHAT TO LOOK FOR

JETHRO said:
i just have to decide who has the best kit for the right money. might just go with forged crank for piece of mind. although a cast crank would probably be alright.


For that 400-450hp...a cast crank is more than enough. Just spend that money you save off of the forged...like $450 that you will save, and buy you something worth the money, like a set of stock length Eagle H-beam rods with ARP studs. You want peace of mind, use all ARP hardware and stud everything you can, and buy you a main cap girdle.That would be a better way to spend that money. You could probably put 900hp through a stock crank, as long as you did it safely. Most of the time, a block will split before a crank breaks. Like i posted before, my dad has built, raced, etc. for 30+ years and he said he's never seen a broken crank, seen many blocks and pistons and rods broken along the way, he's even seen a crank blown through the bottom of an oil pan when the main bearing caps gave out because some moron had re-used stock hardware with a built engine, but has never seen a broken crank.
 
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A cast crank set-up will be just fine for what you are looking for, I like the SCAT cast stuff over the Eagle personally but they both will hold 450HP with no issues at all. The cast crank kit I sell and use is around $1300, SCAT 9000 series crank, SCAT 4340 H-beam rods, Probe or SRP pistons, proper file to fit rings and bearings, the forged crank kit is about $300 more.

I would use a AFR205 head, Vic Jr spyder style manifold or a TFS R 351, 75-80mm TB, 80MM MAF and a 42# inj, 1.75" headers, 3" exhaust, custom cam. You'll need a decent dish piston to get it down to 10.5:1 or so....

That late model block will break before anything in the rotating assembly will. If you ever plan to put a blower on the car go with a forged crank since it will have all the stress on the snout.
 
how about a probe industries cast crank? also i was looking through the summit catalog and was looking at the edelbrock heads. are the victor jr's as good as the afr 205's? that would be nice if they were.
 
JETHRO said:
how about a probe industries cast crank? also i was looking through the summit catalog and was looking at the edelbrock heads. are the victor jr's as good as the afr 205's? that would be nice if they were.


Probe, scat, and eagle are all good. Scat is probably the best....maybe followed by probe and eagle. Im gonna be running probe's kit that i picked up from adperformance.
 
nmcgrawj said:
Probe, scat, and eagle are all good. Scat is probably the best....maybe followed by probe and eagle. Im gonna be running probe's kit that i picked up from adperformance.
ill probably be running the same. 899.00 on ebay and the seller has excellent feedback.
 
JETHRO said:
ill probably be running the same. 899.00 on ebay and the seller has excellent feedback.


I would go with a guy that is well known and has a business that people vouch for. Rick on here is great to deal with and Brian Adams at ADperformance is great to. I know AD has the Eagle 408 kit for $999 and it has a probe piston....not sure how it would compare to that KB piston on ebay. Im sure Rick could do something in that price range too.


Point is, that $100 is worth it for the help, advice, and support from these guys. You dont know who leaves feedback on ebay and really, if something where to go wrong, u dont know if they would stand up to it. Where Rick and Brian are really stand up guys and do great work.

Either way, the key will be getting a good machinist to put it all together. That makes or breaks the shortblock.


Good luck
 
nmcgrawj said:
I would go with a guy that is well known and has a business that people vouch for. Rick on here is great to deal with and Brian Adams at ADperformance is great to. I know AD has the Eagle 408 kit for $999 and it has a probe piston....not sure how it would compare to that KB piston on ebay. Im sure Rick could do something in that price range too.
the whole kit is probe and only the crank is cast. as far as putiing it together, i have a neighbor that puts motors together for a living and would probably help for payment in beer. i was also a machinist for 4.5 years. i didnt build motors but i have some machining background and ill definitely paying attention to details. i do gears on the side so i have indicators and micrometers.
 
JETHRO said:
the whole kit is probe and only the crank is cast. as far as putiing it together, i have a neighbor that puts motors together for a living and would probably help for payment in beer. i was also a machinist for 4.5 years. i didnt build motors but i have some machining background and ill definitely paying attention to details. i do gears on the side so i have indicators and micrometers.


I thought u were talking about a eagle kit. My mistake. We were talking about different auctions.

Machining and assembly makes or breaks a motor. All that crap about 347s you hear? Come from guys who cant get it done. I would practice on junk motors...cause wasting money is never good. And you would be surprised how many shops have the tools to do certain jobs...yet still cant do it correctly.


Just make sure you guys do it right, soundslike your friend is experienced.

GET 'ER DONE! :nice:
 
The Z06 does the 1/4 in 11.5 and 127. It has 505fwhp and 470fwtq and weighs 3100, top speed is 198. 15% drivetrain loss means 430rwhp and 400rwtq.

Mustang's weighs 3500. U will need AT LEAST 500rwhp to make up for the weight difference and I doubt if the Z06 has 15% drivetrain loss with the technology they have available today.
 
IN short, a Zo6 is a monster, and if you want to beat it, you'd better build a better monster.
Heres a breif description of what i would do if i had the money...

Dart 351 block.
Stroked to 427ci with all forged internals.
Novi 2000RR.
Custom Cam.
Yates Heads (damn things flow 368cfm @ .600 lift out of the box!)
Custom made 2'', long tube headers.
Custom made sheetmetal intake
12:5.1 pistons.

A narrowed 9 inch, 15 inch slicks, 5.14 gear.

In short a damn full blown racing engine. Lets see a Z06 **** with that :D

Oh well...we can all dream cant we :rolleyes:
 
The afr 205 will work the best. and to answer your question about if vic jr as good? not at all. so many people will tell you edelbrocks don't flow what they say they do. however in order to make 450 hp im sure vic jr's would be up to the challenge.
 
86bluecobra said:
The afr 205 will work the best. and to answer your question about if vic jr as good? not at all. so many people will tell you edelbrocks don't flow what they say they do. however in order to make 450 hp im sure vic jr's would be up to the challenge.

Dude,

People run the AFR 205's on 331/347 strokers and put over 400rwhp NA on pump gas. U need a big ass head on a 393/408 to make big power, 450-475rwhp and 11:1 comp. The Victor Jr.s out of the box won't cut it, they only flow 291cfm @ .600 lift. They would need to be stage 3 ported to match the AFR 225.

I would not run a cast crank, build the motor to last. 4340 forged steel rotating assembly, balanced @ 28oz or neutral. adperformance.com has some of the best prices around, I would go Scat 4340 and SRP 11:1's.
 
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Dude,it doesnt matter what the heads flow,a bigger motor will make more power :Word:

A 408 with AFr 205's is gonna make more power than a 347 with AFR 205's.

And a Stage 3 set of Victor Jr.'s would annihilate the AFR 225's.

And theres nothing wrong with cast cranks,its not like he gonna be towing 10,000lbs with his mustang,now is he....

Rods,thats the thing you need to decied on,I dont trust I-beams much past 500hp (unless there billet steel or forged aluminum),so I would probably run an H-beam.

I will agree that a zero balance motor should run smoother.
 
bluevenom867 said:
^

Dude,it doesnt matter what the heads flow,a bigger motor will make more power :word:

A 408 with AFr 205's is gonna make more power than a 347 with AFR 205's.

And a Stage 3 set of Victor Jr.'s would annihilate the AFR 225's.

And theres nothing wrong with cast cranks,its not like he gonna be towing 10,000lbs with his mustang,now is he....

Rods,thats the thing you need to decied on,I dont trust I-beams much past 500hp (unless there billet steel or forged aluminum),so I would probably run an H-beam.

I will agree that a zero balance motor should run smoother.
THANK YOU! im shooting for 450 horse. im gonna try to find one that will give me h beams anyway. for those that arent reading all the posts , this is going in my 89 that i drive daily in the summer so i dont need to go all out.