3G swap, these the basic steps?

[billison]

Ok, after my tail pipes get installed my next jobs will be a 3G and electric fan.

3G seems as simple as can be,

Gonna use this harness


Ford Mustang 3G Alternator Conversion Harness Connector

http://bit.ly/OhVEOV

It's plug n play minus connecting the green wires and cleaning up, and tucking away old wires.

Green wire is the volt gauge?

Grind bracket.

Run the new 4g charge wire, run better ground wires.

I know I'm skipping the little steps of soldering connectors and mounting bolts, all obvious stuff, just making sure I got the electrical down, basically install harness, connect green wire then do grunt work right?

 

[billison]

Heck, might just skip buying the harness and use the pic as a guide..

 

[Mustang5L5]

Just buy this or snip one off a junkyard car. Autozone might even sell it in their electrical aisle. Called a stator plug

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-14290C/94-04-Mustang-Stator-Plug

One plug plugs directly to the alt. the other one had three wires. Solder/heatshrink that plug to the white wire and plug it in. Tape the other two wires up and tuck them into the harness

Then run your #4 power wire from the stud on rear of alt over to the POS side of the starter solenoid.

 

[mikestang63]

Here is how I've done it on several cars.

Obviously disconnect the battery first.

1. Grind the bracket for clearance
2. Leave all of the power wires intact from the stock harness. There is no need to cut any and by leaving it intact, you can always go back to the 2G if needed.
3, Splice into the white stator wire ( i cut back the insulation and soldered but you can use a crimp on connector )with either the correct connector or you can use an insulated female spade connector. I wrapped up the old connector and stator wire in electrical tape. Tuck away the wires.
4. Plug in the stator wire and D shaped connector from the 2G into the connectors on the 3G Do NOT attach the stock power wires for the 2G to the back of the post.
5. Run at least a 4 gauge wire from the post on the back of the 3G to the + side of the starter solenoid, with a 150 amp fuse mounted in a watertight container. I ran mine around the front of the upper radiator channel in a wire loom and then drilled through both sides near the bottom of the battery box so the inline fuse sits in the cavity in the bottom of the battery box protected from the elements and hidden from sight.
6. Run an additional ground - 4 gauge wire from the block to the chassis or the ground post behind the battery on the driver firewall.
7. Reconnect the battery + first, then -. Check for voltage drop with engine off and on.

You may also want to swap out the pulley on the 3G for the 2G as the 3G pulley tends to be larger. Quick zap with the air gun. No need to swap the external fan. You may need to shim the pulley to get it to align properly with the belt routing.

IMO you are better off buying one of the kits where the 4g power wires are already pre assembled to the eyelets. You need alot of pressure to make a good connection. I found it was actually cheaper than piecing it together yourself. There is a guy on the corral that sells them with everything you need. The right length of 4g wire with eyelets attached, stator wire, fuse and watertight case, even the top bolt for the alternator, and instructions. Only thing you need is a neg cable for ground.

 

[billison]

Ill check it out. Got a link by chance? All the kits on eBay start at 35$ and are clearly no worth it.

 

[mikestang63]

I think his handle is Grn92? That is about right for the price. Go price out the wire, fuse, fuse holder etc. IMO it's worth paying a few bucks not to have to drive around to parts stores and piece it together, but it's your money.

I'll try and find the link when I get home later.

 

[jrichker]

Follow the link - in it is everything you need to know about the electrical part - diagrams of all the cables and connections.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-alternator-install-a-how-to.646825/#post-6673702

 

[mikestang63]

Here is the link to the kit

http://forums.corral.net/forums/ele...ternator-upgrade-complete-kit-small-case.html

A nice writeup except I do not agree with cutting the wires. Nice pictures.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html

 

[billison]

awesome! i'll post back once I get the parts in.

 

[billison]

Quick question. 150 amp fuse or breaker good enough for the job? I'm ordering parts this weekend.

 

[billison]

And I'm looking at this alternator


End time: Mar 24, 2013, 12:01:08 PM CDT
View item:
93 94 95 96 FORD F150 ALTERNATOR 6-300 4.9L 130 AMP TESTED 90 DAY WARRANTY



Should be both 3G 130 amp and have the threaded ear.. Right ?

 

[mikestang63]

Yes, 150 amp fuse is fine. You want the 3g with the holes at 12 and 6 oclock with the threaded hole at 12 oclock. Many have posted which alternators will swap in and I don't think that one was on the list. Just get an alternator from any 94-96 Mustang from a junkyard, the message boards, or a reman from rock auto for $100.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3373713&cc=1134133

PURE ENERGY Part # 7771611N More Info View attachment 133552
View attachment 133555 View attachment 133558 (Only 3 Remaining)

$93.79 $0.00 $93.79

 

[billison]

The list I looked at today say the 93-96 f series trucks would work.


""
When is a 3G not a 3G?

As an aside, not all 3G's are 130A, some are 95A and some are 105A, as 3G's are used on many different vehicles. Basically, the 3G's have the internal cooling fan instead of the external fan used on the 2G. The 3G also uses a stud for the charging wire instead of the spade connectors on the 2G. Also, there are probably 20 different mounting varieties of 3G's. The correct 3G has the mounting ears spaced 175mm apart, 180° from each other. The 3G for the Mustang is 130A.

Here is a list of vehicles that have the 3G alternator, most are 130A, but some might be 110A:

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

*Probably the best one if you can get it (should be easy to find, too) is off the E/F series...this series uses a threaded top ear like the stocker on the Mustang....E/F series with threaded ear uses metric bolt. ALSO, make sure the E/F series is 130 Amps and NOT 95.""

 

[billison]

Decided not to chance it. Got one off a 94 for 40$.

Already ordered the fuse. Just some wire and I'm good to go.

 

[Shakerhood]

Decided not to chance it. Got one off a 94 for 40$.

Already ordered the fuse. Just some wire and I'm good to go.

You can tap and then helicoil the top ear so you can use a bolt.

 

[billison]

I probably will

 

[Shakerhood]

I probably will

It looks so much cleaner that way instead of having a bolt, washer, and nut.

 

[billison]

True.

I know all the guides call for 4g wire, but I'm possibly getting a bunch of 2 guage welding cable, this would more than work right? Trying to not buy a bunch of different types of wire.

 

[Shakerhood]

4G Wire should honestly be plenty.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

LRS sells the swap bolt for the 3G alternator swap.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PA-9901/Mustang-2G-To-3G-alternator-Small-Parts-Kit

IDK if they sell JUST the bolt but this little kit isn't really bad for the price.