418W buildup questions.

[IndyBlk5.0]

I'm pretty sure my block is a 74, thats what the machine shop told me. I was under the impression that it was a 69', because it came out of a 69' fastback 15 years ago.

I really dont know what to expect out of those block as in holding up. It's going to be .040 over, all arp studs throughout, and main girdle. Im thinking about going with the stroker kit from TMD. Hawk nodular iron crank, forged H beam rods, either MAHLE or probe forged pistons.

Im going to be using 215 protopline heads, comp cams cam, victor jr intake, and some type of demon carb. I plan to get around 500rwhp out of this, but leave some room for some nitrous. Maybe a 100 shot.

I am worried about the block, and the nodular iron crank at this point. Will they hold up? All around, does this sound like a pretty decent setup?

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

Sounds decent but I would go with a forged crank. Most iron cranks are good for around 500 hp reliably. With the nitrous, if you made 500rwhp you are talking almost 700fwhp Why a .04 overbore, my 418 is a .03.
mike.

#'s in sig, pump gas.

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

http://www.adperformance.com/rotating_ford_351.html
How do the prices look on that page? Are the 9000 cranks good enough to handle what im asking from them?

 

[408stroker5.0]

I woudn't worry about the block at all.... run a Main Girdle and ARP Stud's, and have all the proper machining done (Align Hone, Bore W/Torque Plate's, Clearence's Checked, balanced etc. etc. etc.) and you'll be fine. I would go with a Steel Crank if your thinking of Nitrous, as you have already gone this far with the rotating asy. you mine as well have the best of everything instead of cheaping out on one of the most important part's of the rotating Assy. It's nice to know you have a good crank backing you up. The Scat 9000 Crank's are an awesome crank and are rated up to 700HP. I'm running one in my 408 as I have no intention's of running Nitrous on it ever, so I figured I mine as well go with the 9000 and I can spend the money I saved for something else on the car (rearend). Even with a small 100 Shot the Scat 9000 Crank would most likely stand up no problem, but when you start throwing more juice at her which will eventually happen your crank will be living on the edge... so go with a steel. If you stick NA go with a 9000, as you cant beat the price and quality.
Insure you pick a good quality main girdle. I run a Probe Crome Moly Piece and was very impressed with the fit and Design... it required some light sanding on the main caps. Canton, DSS, FRPP and a couple of other brand's make decent girdle's.... check em out. Stay away from El Cheapo Brand's (CAT etc.) Cheap girdle's will cause more problem's, and offer basically no support.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

Ditto on the girdle, I run the probe also. Brian (adperformance) knows way more than I do, call him up or email him. Always willing to offer up his advice. Good luck.

BTW, what do those cylinder heads you are looking at cost?

 

[408stroker5.0]

Everyone is going to 418's these day's.... DAMN IT!!! Why didn't I build a 418?!
That 418 should be pretty mean Indy. Keep Us Posted.

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

Those cylinder heads cost around 600 fully assembled. Gotta love how protoplines prices dont go up when you get big heads =) I port the exhaust side myself, take a look at the flow numbers. http://www.procylinderheads.com/f2204000215.htm I figured I would give them a try, people that have are ranting about them.

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

What did the Probe main girdle cost you guys?

 

[408stroker5.0]

I woudn't worry about the cost on the girdle.... you've got to run one no matter what the cost. It would be a mistake not to. (The Probe Unit's Aren't to Expensive Anyhow) My Canadian Dollar price probably woudn't do you much good, so maybe 5.0HOTrain can give you what he paid for his.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

I think it was $180. The "R" heads when I bought them turned out to be $740 apiece. What are you planning for compression? I would go at least 10.5:1. I run 11.25.
mike.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Just be prepared to wait for the parts, I deal a lot with Brian and I know he is waiting for SCAT cranks, hell seems everyone is waiting these days for parts. Brian is a straight up guy and will tell you how it is, the wait is worth it for GOOD parts.

If you want a 4340 steel assembly, go with the new Eagle Internal Balance crank, Eagle H-beams and SRP pistons, good rings and bearings. I know they make a 408 kit (or 410 with a .040). You can internal balance the motor for the price of 28-50oz.

If you want a CAST assembly the Eagle kit is hard to beat for around $1100 for a 408.

You will have to run a full dish piston to get down under 11:1 with a 58cc-60cc chamber head. Have your machinest checl the squareness of that block before you buy a rotating assembly, this way you can make sure your pistons stay below the deck. The 69 block is a 9.48 deck height casting number C9, the 74 is 9.5 and casting number is D4.

I finishing up a 408 currently for a guy using a 74 block The 74 block turned out to be right at 9.5 from the factory, and the deck needed a little over .013 taken off the make it square. I have found the DSS girdle to be the best fitting girdle out....