64-66 exhaust system on 68 coupe

  • Sponsors (?)


exhaust

I don't know why you would want a 67-68 exhaust on a 65-66. I have a '68 Cougar and I had a custom exhaust made for mine last month for $300 with flowmasters. But as for an answer to your question, The rear brake line hooks up differently between the 65-66 and 67-68. On the 65-66 the rear brake bracket has to be moved if you are considering dual exhaust. That is if it is still in the stock position.
 
bad....

Go with the Maggies. I am a dealer for both magnaflow and flowmaster so I see these kits all the time....the maggies are 10times better quality and last FOREVER.

that is what i don't understand, what is it that makes it better quality, its the same material is it not (except for the mufflers)?
I am in a serous crunch for money, and the flowmaster is the more cost efficient option.

also is the magnaflow system for short or long-tube headers?
 
you'll have to adapt either kit to fit your headers. It may not matter in Texas on a non catalytic converter equipped car, but magnaflow is all stainless steel, whereas flowmaster is aluminized steel. The aluminized would last a long time, but the stainless will last bascially forever. IMO, it comes down to sound preference. I've used both, currently using magnaflows and like them.
 
you'll have to adapt either kit to fit your headers. It may not matter in Texas on a non catalytic converter equipped car, but magnaflow is all stainless steel, whereas flowmaster is aluminized steel. The aluminized would last a long time, but the stainless will last bascially forever.

It matters on any car, cat converter or not. The key is driving long enough for the exhaust to get hot and boil the water away. Short trips kill exhaust systems because the water pools up in the mufflers, mixes with acidic combustion byproducts, and rots out. I've been working out a lot of bugs in my '68 and not driving very far. I pulled one side of the exhaust to work on the trans and saw rust specks in the headers while water trickled out of the glasspack. I would say 10-15 miles minimum of steady driving is enough to dry it out.

Now that the science lesson is over, I will say that stainless or aluminized will be fine. Aluminized will last a long time if it gets hot enough to dry out and will save a lot of money. Stainless will take anything you can throw at it, but you'll have to throw more money at it.

If you get stainless, I would recommend having stainless cut-outs fabricated by a shop. All they need is are the flanges, a hole saw, a tubing notcher, and about 12-14" of straight stainless tube. The FlowTech "Race Readies" are mild steel and would look terrible patched into a stainless system
 
stainless could fail, usually in the welded areas. the flowmaster kit i used on a fox was nice and will last a good long time. I am going magnaflow stainless 2.5 and jba stainless headers. go with a kit bent for your year.
 
i had a flowmaster catback system on my 'driver (94 explorer) and ill never give them another dime of my money! the system was just barely 3 years old, and it rotted completely off! tailpipe rusted completely in two pieces, muffler dragging the pavement, the whole ugly scene. flowmaster did offer to replace the tail pipe for a reduced price of 87.00...
 
It matters on any car, cat converter or not. The key is driving long enough for the exhaust to get hot and boil the water away. Short trips kill exhaust systems because the water pools up in the mufflers, mixes with acidic combustion byproducts, and rots out. I've been working out a lot of bugs in my '68 and not driving very far. I pulled one side of the exhaust to work on the trans and saw rust specks in the headers while water trickled out of the glasspack. I would say 10-15 miles minimum of steady driving is enough to dry it out.

Now that the science lesson is over, I will say that stainless or aluminized will be fine. Aluminized will last a long time if it gets hot enough to dry out and will save a lot of money. Stainless will take anything you can throw at it, but you'll have to throw more money at it.

If you get stainless, I would recommend having stainless cut-outs fabricated by a shop. All they need is are the flanges, a hole saw, a tubing notcher, and about 12-14" of straight stainless tube. The FlowTech "Race Readies" are mild steel and would look terrible patched into a stainless system

what acidic combustion byproducts are you talking about? When a hydrocarbon, such as gasolin, is burned all that it yields is water (h2o) and Carbon Monoxide (CO)
 
The ideally complete combustion only yields CO2 and H2O. Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion, and no gas engine ever reaches perfect combustion.

Carbon dioxide, present nomatter how complete the combustion, mixes with water forms carbonic acid. Small amounts of sulphur present in gasoline get burned and become sulphur dioxide, which mixes with the water to make dilute sulphuric acid. Nitrogen oxides from high combustion heat also combine with water to make nitric acid.
 
The ideally complete combustion only yields CO2 and H2O. Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion, and no gas engine ever reaches perfect combustion.

Carbon dioxide, present nomatter how complete the combustion, mixes with water forms carbonic acid. Small amounts of sulphur present in gasoline get burned and become sulphur dioxide, which mixes with the water to make dilute sulphuric acid. Nitrogen oxides from high combustion heat also combine with water to make nitric acid.

Very good to know i appreciate the knowledge