'66FBGT 289 Engine Rebuild Estimate
- Thread starter hivewax
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SoCalCruising
Founding Member
Zero balance is generally desirable, but not necessary on a street motor. Given the components you have, it may not be possible without adding weight (Mallory metal) to the crank. For your application, it would be money wasted. IMO. Just take care that you balance the motor with the actual flywheel, balancer, crank, rods, bearings, rings, pins, locks (if used) and pistons. Make sure the balancer and flywheel have the same imbalance factor.
If I remember right your car is a 65 or 66. If so, there are fitment problems with the TKO. For proper driveline angle, you must raise the tunnel about 2" (cutting anf fabricating is needed). Unless you are making lots of power and plan to run lots of tire or slicks, the TKO isn't needed. I am making somewhere in the area of 450 fwhp and can run a 245/50-16 tire without fear of breaking my Motorsport T-5 (2.95 first gear). Generallky speaking, it is tough to get enough street tire on an early model to get all the power to the pavement. So, breakage is seldom an issue.
If I remember right your car is a 65 or 66. If so, there are fitment problems with the TKO. For proper driveline angle, you must raise the tunnel about 2" (cutting anf fabricating is needed). Unless you are making lots of power and plan to run lots of tire or slicks, the TKO isn't needed. I am making somewhere in the area of 450 fwhp and can run a 245/50-16 tire without fear of breaking my Motorsport T-5 (2.95 first gear). Generallky speaking, it is tough to get enough street tire on an early model to get all the power to the pavement. So, breakage is seldom an issue.
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
"No" to adding 5th gear to your 4-speed.
I am not familiar with Gear Vendor's apps for manual transmissions. In any event, those units are pricey. Swapping to a T-5 would be cheaper. The Motorstport 2.95 1st gear T-5 is the best buy. You can buy them rebuilt or new.
I am not familiar with Gear Vendor's apps for manual transmissions. In any event, those units are pricey. Swapping to a T-5 would be cheaper. The Motorstport 2.95 1st gear T-5 is the best buy. You can buy them rebuilt or new.
Progress
we kept the existing 18# cast steel 157-tooth flywheel (C6ZE-6380-A), which is lighter than a new steel forged flywheel (~22#). also, i'm keeping the 4-speed to have fun with it for a while. later on, i'll decide on the swap to an overdrive box.
AFR 185 heads are being ordered. to my surprise, Summit Racing didn't have 'em online. JEG's had 'em overpriced than direct.
any advice/comments are appreciated.
we kept the existing 18# cast steel 157-tooth flywheel (C6ZE-6380-A), which is lighter than a new steel forged flywheel (~22#). also, i'm keeping the 4-speed to have fun with it for a while. later on, i'll decide on the swap to an overdrive box.
AFR 185 heads are being ordered. to my surprise, Summit Racing didn't have 'em online. JEG's had 'em overpriced than direct.
any advice/comments are appreciated.
Update
JBA Try-Y ceramic-coated headers are on back order 'til mid June. so, i'm looking for advice for finishing up the 289 stroked 347 and exhaust...
1. is a 600cfm Edelbrock w/e-choke (new fuel-economy version) any good? i heard negative feedback on forums about Edelbrock carburetors. is there another brand that has 600cfm w/e-choke? i haven't found any yet.
2. i've been looking at 2.5" exhaust pipes w/x-over & rear GT valence exit. i didn't find kits that matched. i'm thinking of getting the 5-piece Dr. Gas kit, but don't know what to get for mufflers & remaining exit pipes. does anyone have a nice solution? Ford dual-mode mufflers?
JBA Try-Y ceramic-coated headers are on back order 'til mid June. so, i'm looking for advice for finishing up the 289 stroked 347 and exhaust...
1. is a 600cfm Edelbrock w/e-choke (new fuel-economy version) any good? i heard negative feedback on forums about Edelbrock carburetors. is there another brand that has 600cfm w/e-choke? i haven't found any yet.
2. i've been looking at 2.5" exhaust pipes w/x-over & rear GT valence exit. i didn't find kits that matched. i'm thinking of getting the 5-piece Dr. Gas kit, but don't know what to get for mufflers & remaining exit pipes. does anyone have a nice solution? Ford dual-mode mufflers?
SadbutTrue
Founding Member
Not sure if its been said but those Patriot heads are cheap AFR knock offs... I forget where I read about it but there was a really long thread with a very, very unhappy Patriot heads owner showing pics of how crappy those heads are quality-control wise.
Ask for Edelbrock Performer RPM, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge, or AFRs (or other brand name comparable head) or have someone else do it.
Ask for Edelbrock Performer RPM, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge, or AFRs (or other brand name comparable head) or have someone else do it.
You're in south Florida, you don't even need a choke. I don't use em here in south Louisiana. That's the first thing removed from all my Holleys. Use electronic ignition and a wide LSA cam and the only thing you'll miss out on as far as a choke, is not having to put up with it malfunctioning.
AFR185's and a COMP THUMPR cam are already on the long block. thanx to this forum for giving me the negative advice on Patriot heads. and, the Edelbrock 600cfm w/e-choke was the best decision for fuel economy so far... all Holley's have mechanical secondaries i believe.
Holleys come in both mech secondaries and vacuum. Manual or electric choke. They come any way you want em.
okay, done deal on Holley 600cfm 4160 HP carburetor manual choke (Part #: 0-1850C). the jets can be replaced to match the Edelbrock 600cfm if need be. i kind of don't like the shiny finish, but heard the regular finish can be hard to clean. should i get the shiny finish for easy maintenance for cleaning?
and, does anyone have/seen/heard a TILTON racing clutch on there street car? i've read they are pretty indestructible and rebuild-able.
and, does anyone have/seen/heard a TILTON racing clutch on there street car? i've read they are pretty indestructible and rebuild-able.
The Holley 1850C isn't the HP model. It's the std run of the mill Holley 600. As for keeping it clean, spray carb cleaner followed with plain water keeps the gunk under control. Works the same for both finishes. I don't know what you mean by jetting to match the Edelbrock 600. Changing jets either enriches the main circuit or leans it. Best thing to do is run it awhile then pull 4 plugs (2 per intake plane) and see what it needs. I've found that the secondary spring to be too heavy in most cases and change to a lighter one. You may not need to with 347 cubes sucking on it.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
The shiny finish wont last more then a few months then it turns to a grey milky mess.I had one it was inpossible to keep looking decent.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
i've read this post on intake manifolds...
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=594500
i have the Air-Gap and AFR185's, which were both mentioned in one post about the Air-Gap having a problem with port matching to the AFR185's.
the machine shop has not ported the Air Gap. will i lose performance because of not port matching?
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=594500
i have the Air-Gap and AFR185's, which were both mentioned in one post about the Air-Gap having a problem with port matching to the AFR185's.
the machine shop has not ported the Air Gap. will i lose performance because of not port matching?
