93 Cobra brake booster install

After getting a lot of info from fellow stangers, I sensed it was a major PIA to install. Since I had everything done except the booster and master, I took the leap. Actually the biggest pain was getting the booster past the wire harness on the shock tower.

What I ended up doing was SLIGHTLY elongating the firewall holes at a 45* and cut the mounting bolts on the booster by 3/8". A few shots of silicon on the wire harness and it slipped right in. I DID NOT have to beat on the shock tower. I have a 92, the 92 and 93 have a slightly different shock tower. I got this info from the Ford M2300K installation instructions. They state that 91 and older may have to modify the shock tower.. So anyone out there thinking about an install, its really not that bad....

Yeah, it's not that bad.

Even on my 90' about 6-8 "taps" with a 5lb sledge and it cleared the shock tower.

Its a PITA, but if you take your time with it, its not too bad.

the 93 cobra booster is made for a fox body.im pretty sure its the 94 and up cars that need the ole sledge hammer.

The body of the booster is the same between the cobra and the Sn95 boosters...only difference is the stud bolt pattern is different between the two.

You need the sledge, for the pre-91 cars...but to be honest it's not much. I barely tapped my fender..prob moved 1-2mm at most and you can't even see it now. You'd never know.

I gotta do mine again since my SN95 booster took a dump. Gonna put a Cobra one in instead. Doing the job twice is fun!

Just wondering, since I don't know, is there anything special about the 93 Cobra brake booster?

Much more brake assist since it's physically larger. It's usually required when you convert to rear disks since the increase piston area usually increases pedal effort without it.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I have a 95 V6 booster in my 93, had to lightly tap the tower with a rather large hammer. Now just need to get the car finished to see how they work...

I lucked out on not using a sledge on both of my 90's, but I sure did use up all my patience.

great...now..how do they feel compared to the regular 92 booster set up?
also..did you have to adjust the brake rod?

thanks

The mounting holes in the firewall are the same as any of the Fox bodies.

Yes, you have to measure the depth of the master cylinder from the very end down to where the push rod hits, then you have to measure from the very end of the master, (the part that actually goes inside the booster) to the flange portion that sits flush against the booster. Subtract the two and you have the dimension of the push rod. subtract an additional .005-010 for the free play.. on mine the depth was 1.540
the part that goes inside the master .635
difference .905
subtract for free play .005
rod adjustment .900

In my case the push rod had to be .900 from the face of the booster to the end of the push rod.. Hope ist not to confusing...

not quite... they are actually more spread out than the rest of the fox bodies. the cobra's were different.

On my 90 I just had to elongate that one hole. Just a few bangs with my fist and it went in. No need to massage the shock tower. Great upgrade for any fox!
Kevin

I'm also one of the ones who avoided swapping the booster out of fear of doing the job. But i had no choice as my brake pedal was rock hard. What's the point of cobra brakes if i have to press all my weight into the pedal to stop?

After swapping the booster, i can say it was no big deal. Slotted the holes and it slid right into my '88. Didn't even have to touch my strut tower.

All you need are some decent extensions and univerals for the booster nuts and a nice sharp drill bit or die grinder to slot the holes slightly.

Well worth it as you get much more assist.

I have manual brakes on my 1980 coupe, but plan on doing the pbr's up front, possible even cobra brakes, and then eventually swapping to cobra disc rear brakes.. should I also get a booster with a different master? I don't know much about the physics of brakes haha. Just how they work

Front brakes only....you might be able to keep your current manual brake setup. It uses a 7/8" bore mc which is sized well.

However if you add rear disks....things get tricky. I don't know know the pedal ratio on the early cars to give accurate advice.

Okay, I know it has the Lincoln brake setup right now.. and the pedal feels good. I have 94/95 spindles ready to put on, just need to buy the front brake pads and rotors and I will be able to swap them over. Just kinda planning ahead of what I need to get

Seriously, the hardest part of the swap was navigating under the dash to get the bolts in and out. Other than that, it was a simple upgrade. Tip: pull your front seat out when going under the dash. I know it sounds like too much trouble but it was soooo much easier.
Kevin