Alright, so I just picked up a '94 Conv. V6, but it has rear discs so I'm not sure if it's a factory original rearend. When going down the road it howls like crazy. When I turn to the left the noise goes away, if I'm going straight or turning right it's pretty loud. It changes with speed and whether or not I'm climbing a hill. I thought at first it was the passenger side wheel bearing, but then I noticed today, after I had the car parked for a few days without moving it, that there is a puddle of gear oil at the driver's side rear wheel. I also noticed that the inside of the wheel is coated with dirt and oil, so it's been like that for a lil while at least. Anyhow, the pig is clean with no drips. I haven't had a chance to pull the wheel off yet, but thought I'd post in here as I would like to have the car fixed ASAP! So, I guess I have 2 questions, one, did the V6 come with an option for rear discs? And 2, what could be the culprit of my noise and leakage? Thanks fellahs!
'94 Rearend howling
- Thread starter acex008
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TrueBlue95GT
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ALL 94-on mustangs came with rear discs. Your culprit for the leaking is the passenger axle seal. Whether or not you fried the clutchpacks in the rear is a different question. Either way, removal of the passenger axle is required to change the seal and you need to pop the diff cover to remove it. If you need more info on removing it, let us know. Not hard at all for the slightly inclined backyard mechanic with decent tools.
I'm *ehum* a Chevy guy and I've never had to do anything to a rear end other than brakes and removing one to lower a truck... I know little about how to rebuild one or even remove the axle. I know how to turn a wrench and have the tools to do so, but I'm new to the rear end world. If I can find a used 8.8 locally for cheap enough (under $400 bones) than I'll just do the swap since this car may see a 5.0L swap this winter... In the mean time, where can I look to find tuts on how to do this job?
You may have problems swapping in an 8.8. The brake line connection from the body to the axle are different between the 7.5 and 8.8 rear ends. You'll either need to change out the hard brake line under the chassis along with the 8.8, or make your own hard brake lines on the 8.8 axle.
As for tutorials, there is no one tutorial her on the forum. If there is one, it's likely buried in the archives. Try searching the forums for "replace rear axle", and read through the threads.
If you rebuild the 7.5 rear end, you should replace both axle bearings and seals. The seal on your driver's side is leaking. It's a simple job to replace both, and can give you good piece of mind.
As for tutorials, there is no one tutorial her on the forum. If there is one, it's likely buried in the archives. Try searching the forums for "replace rear axle", and read through the threads.
If you rebuild the 7.5 rear end, you should replace both axle bearings and seals. The seal on your driver's side is leaking. It's a simple job to replace both, and can give you good piece of mind.
I'm thinking since it appears to have been low and running out of oil for some time now that the clutchpacks as trueblue stated are shot. Will the control arms work for an 8.8? I can handle running new brake lines...
The control arms are identical for all 94-04 Mustangs. The rear springs are identical between the V6 and GT, not sure about the Cobra. Be careful about the year Mustang you get the 8.8 from. 93 and earlier 8.8's are narrower; Mustang versions have drum brakes. 99-04 8.8's are about 3/8" wider on each side, which will push your tires out a bit more. However, it will work.
If you happened to live in Southern California, I happen to have a 7.5 axle from a 2000 Mustang I've been meaning to sell. It's got 4.10 gears and a traction-lok differential. If you want more info on it send me a private message (PM).
If you happened to live in Southern California, I happen to have a 7.5 axle from a 2000 Mustang I've been meaning to sell. It's got 4.10 gears and a traction-lok differential. If you want more info on it send me a private message (PM).
Yes, the existing calipers and rotors are identical on the GT & V6, front and back. A Cobra rear axle uses the same calipers but you'll need bigger rotors.
If you do get an 8.8 rear end, here's a basic rundown on the V6 and GT/Cobra differences:
* The V6 center brake hose (from axle to chassis) is actually on the right side since V6's only have single exhaust. The attachment from the hose to the hard line on the chassis is also different. The GT & Cobra brake hose is on top of the differential housing, and uses a banjo bolt to attach the brake hose to the chassis hard line. The GT & Cobra also have a bracket & adapter that the banjo bolt screws in to - the V6 does not have it.
* This means that the hard lines on the rear axle are different, you'll need them as well with the 8.8 or you'll have to make your own. The rubber brake lines going to the calipers are the same on all 94-98 Mustangs.
The brake hard line under the car is easy to swap. It attaches behind the passenger front wheel and runs under the car to the rear axle. It's held on by plastic clips which you can save if you're careful. Be VERY SURE you get the bracket & adapter at the end of this hard line by the axle, or you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out how to connect the lines.
The bracket is held on by 2 steel rivets, you can drill them off to remove the bracket from the donor car. The V6 has the two holes that the rivets go into, but you'll need new rivets of course. You'll need some large steel rivets to attach the bracket, good luck in finding them. I fortunately am on good terms with a local mechanic; he gave me two steel rivets and lent me his large rivet gun.
You mention you might do a 5.0 swap later on. To be honest, if you're doing so to "save money" I would simply sell the V6 and buy a GT. It's a heck of a lot of work to do a 5.0 swap, and mine cost me a lot more money than I expected - and I had a donor car with all the parts already. Click on the "Cobra clone" link in my sig below if you want to read more about it. The reason I went through with the swap was to be able to say "I did it". Financially, it was foolish; but since I did it for the experience I'm glad I did the swap.
If you do get an 8.8 rear end, here's a basic rundown on the V6 and GT/Cobra differences:
* The V6 center brake hose (from axle to chassis) is actually on the right side since V6's only have single exhaust. The attachment from the hose to the hard line on the chassis is also different. The GT & Cobra brake hose is on top of the differential housing, and uses a banjo bolt to attach the brake hose to the chassis hard line. The GT & Cobra also have a bracket & adapter that the banjo bolt screws in to - the V6 does not have it.
* This means that the hard lines on the rear axle are different, you'll need them as well with the 8.8 or you'll have to make your own. The rubber brake lines going to the calipers are the same on all 94-98 Mustangs.
The brake hard line under the car is easy to swap. It attaches behind the passenger front wheel and runs under the car to the rear axle. It's held on by plastic clips which you can save if you're careful. Be VERY SURE you get the bracket & adapter at the end of this hard line by the axle, or you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out how to connect the lines.
The bracket is held on by 2 steel rivets, you can drill them off to remove the bracket from the donor car. The V6 has the two holes that the rivets go into, but you'll need new rivets of course. You'll need some large steel rivets to attach the bracket, good luck in finding them. I fortunately am on good terms with a local mechanic; he gave me two steel rivets and lent me his large rivet gun.
You mention you might do a 5.0 swap later on. To be honest, if you're doing so to "save money" I would simply sell the V6 and buy a GT. It's a heck of a lot of work to do a 5.0 swap, and mine cost me a lot more money than I expected - and I had a donor car with all the parts already. Click on the "Cobra clone" link in my sig below if you want to read more about it. The reason I went through with the swap was to be able to say "I did it". Financially, it was foolish; but since I did it for the experience I'm glad I did the swap.
I don't know how long it's been low on oil and it was noisy the whole 21 mile trip I took with it. Other than when I took left turns. I played with the steering wheel a bit after I figured out it would go away when I turned left; it goes away the second I turn the wheel. Think the differential is toast? I'm going to fill it with oil and test it on the lift to see if it's still noisy before tearing into it. I've found an 8.8" out of a 96 GT for $350 with a warranty that I'm buying from my local junkyard but it won't be available until next weekend (it's still in the car). I'd like to drive the car this weekend since it's the 4th and all. You guys know more about differentials than I do, do you think I could just change out the outer seals and possibly the bearings and fill it up and be good for a few days? I know it's hard telling not knowing, but are differentials junk if they run out of oil and run?
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