AC in place of PS pump?

dablack

New Member
May 17, 2005
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Ok, I haven't looked at this yet, but if it works I would be killing two birds with one stone.

I want to get rid of PS on my 68. I already have everything I need in order to do this (manual box, manual idler arm and manual center link). The only problem is the waterpump uses the PS pump as the tensioner.

I want to add AC. Can I use the AC compressor to tension the water pump?

Austin
 
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Not sure what engine you have but the waterpump on a 67/68 289 is driven/tensioned off the alternator (as well as seperate PS and AC belts) any one will do the trick. I know that the alternator on 6cyl is different when it comes to w/ or w/out PS but the waterpump is still driven/tensioned by AC or PS or alt (alternator is driven off AC if it also has PS)
 
I have a 302 in my 68. I'm going to have to go back and look, but the last time I checked I couldn't remove the PS because it is on the same belt as the waterpump. The Alt doesn't tension the water pump. I know that sounds weird, but I know others have had the same problem. I will look at it tonight. I think the alt is too far forward to line up w/ any of the water pump pulleys.

Austin
 
68air_ps.jpg
There are apparently tons of variations from all of the comments. This is an extract from the Ford Parts Diagram (page 20 of section 197.2 of the illustrations manual). The caption says it is for a 68 Ford, Fairlane, Falcon, Mustang with 289/302 and Hang-on AC.
It is exactly the same as what I have on my 67 coupe with Integrated AC.
It shows 3 seperate belts. The small pulley shown on the far left is the alternator and drives to the waterpump and crank. The right pulley is the PS and connects to waterpump and crank. The waterpump should have 2 grooves on a 68 with PS. The crank has 3 grooves with AC and PS and 2 if just PS.
 
I'm runnin' my '68 347 without P/S and no A/C. Have been for years. The belt goes around the main, water pump and alternator.

I don't know about adding A/C, though. I stripped that out about 12 years ago because it wasn't working and it always got in my way.

Be sure that when you put in that manual box, idler and centerlink that you always run your tires at max pressure. It makes for easier steering. Plus, if you relocated the A-arms so that the tie rods are level, steering will be even easier. (I'm a tiny little girl and while I can run the tires mushy and only last year relocated the A-arms, those two things made a serious difference in throwing the car into and out of U-turns.) Just an FYI.
 
thanks guys (and girl),

I keep forgetting to look under the hood so I can describe what is under there. I think over the years, POs have changed stuff. I know the block is a 1983 302 so who knows how the brackets have changed over time.

thanks
Austin