Alternator Cutoff Switch

cmozez said:
xyoung347x- What do you think a rectyifier is made of? Diodes. As far as I can see, Black70fastback has a full understanding of what this thread is about. Give it a try and let us know. It is as simple as going inle with the field wir, shut the engine off, turn the switch off, restart the car and make the run, you can then just simply turn the switch back on with the car running and you will re-excite the field. I have a degree in Robotics and 14 years electronics experience, i can spot a know not from a mile away, some of you guys don't have a clue. Go get a basic electronics/electrical theory book and read it, then come back and post some good facts for our fellow stangers.
:D Well said. Did I sound like I knew what I was talking about? I don't have a degree but took 2 years electronics and skipped first year and went straight to second year Diversified Technology in high school. Currently I'm an Artillery Electronics Technician in the Marine Corps with hopes to get either a degree in Electronic or Computer Engineering in the near future. What does a guy with your experience do in Tupelo cuz I can tell you from living in Mississippi I'm glad that I left. :rolleyes:
 
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well if you've run without a belt before then you have already proved you can do it. just a matter of putting in the switch and trying it. switches are rated in amps as well like a fuse. though i dont think a field wire pulls much juice, just make sure you dont get a switch that will burn up, would be a pain in the azz.
 
You don't need a relay. I just installed a push button ignition switch in my stang and went through all of this. I will be a 4th year electrical engineering major this year and I have an internship with a company that makes silicon wafer manufacturing robots. The point is, I had my boss with 20 or so years of industry experience approve the components I picked out, all you need is a hefty switch (mine is rated for 125v and 4 amps) and some thick wire, I used 12 guage. My boss also told me to solder everything and not to use wire nuts when the current draw is that high. I also used zener diodes before and after the switch, in the extremely unlikely event of backlash. I'm sure the same situation can be applied to you, except I used a momentary switch and you would use a rocker switch.
 
Black95GTS said:
You don't need a relay. I just installed a push button ignition switch in my stang and went through all of this. I will be a 4th year electrical engineering major this year and I have an internship with a company that makes silicon wafer manufacturing robots. The point is, I had my boss with 20 or so years of industry experience approve the components I picked out, all you need is a hefty switch (mine is rated for 125v and 4 amps) and some thick wire, I used 12 guage. My boss also told me to solder everything and not to use wire nuts when the current draw is that high. I also used zener diodes before and after the switch, in the extremely unlikely event of backlash. I'm sure the same situation can be applied to you, except I used a momentary switch and you would use a rocker switch.
One sweet day I'll be back doing what I love- true electronics :drool:
 
I just read your sig. Why don't you change the jet on your N20 setup.

The sensors run off of 12V, not 13.6V, which is what the alternator puts out after warm-up. (Starts as 14.4V, but the voltage regulator steps it down to 13.6 after warm-up).

So as long as your battery is strong, then the sensors will have no effect. Same with the coil.

So, in a sense, it will work without any reprocussions. But is it worth it, IMO? I say NO!!!! But whatever floats your boat.

Like I said earlier, change the jet on the N20 or get an intake manifold. Don't mess with these petty mods, which you can't use while on the street. JMO
Scott