Any Ford Technicians?
- Thread starter Mark89coupe
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Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
I took it in for service because the message center gave a check gas cap code. It was running rough. Ford changed the HIVAC soleniod or something like that. I picked it up and it still runs rough. I then brought it to another dealer and they said they cant find anything wrong with it. What do you think?
Another is the rear. After driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway and then getting into heavy traffic the rear howls from 50 - 65mph. Very noticeable. I told them this also. Nothing wrong with it. My question with the rear is this- will royal purple help the howl in the rear? If so how much additive should I add to the rear when I change the fluid?
4X4 with advance trac and 20,000 miles.
PS. It loves to eat gas. Is 17mpg HWY normal?
Another is the rear. After driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway and then getting into heavy traffic the rear howls from 50 - 65mph. Very noticeable. I told them this also. Nothing wrong with it. My question with the rear is this- will royal purple help the howl in the rear? If so how much additive should I add to the rear when I change the fluid?
4X4 with advance trac and 20,000 miles.
PS. It loves to eat gas. Is 17mpg HWY normal?
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
is your gas cap vented or sealed and does it work
RP says no additive needed
V6 explorer with I'm assuming full time 4 wheel drive would be kinda hard on gas.
The howling could be a tire or a wheel berring or a few other things. Is the truck still under warrenty
RP says no additive needed
V6 explorer with I'm assuming full time 4 wheel drive would be kinda hard on gas.
The howling could be a tire or a wheel berring or a few other things. Is the truck still under warrenty
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
oh the transfer case might make a little noise which is what you might be hearing.
I'm not a Ford tech but I do work on alot of 4X4's and other newer cars ans trucks. My friend is a GM tech and he gets alot of side jobs from people who are too cheap to pay the shop rate so they pay him less and he makes more than he would at work and everyone wins except The stealership he works at. I help him out alot and work on theese side joibs with him for a little cash and he helps me work on my stuff when I need help.
I'm not a Ford tech but I do work on alot of 4X4's and other newer cars ans trucks. My friend is a GM tech and he gets alot of side jobs from people who are too cheap to pay the shop rate so they pay him less and he makes more than he would at work and everyone wins except The stealership he works at. I help him out alot and work on theese side joibs with him for a little cash and he helps me work on my stuff when I need help.
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
what kind of tires do you have on it. I have some all terrian on my truck and they sound like a bad rearend on the pavement.
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
probly not the tires then. I thought you would know what RP weant lol.
I would demand a rearend rebuild since it's under warrenty. I have always thought that rear wheel drive is a tad bit louder than most any front wheel drive since RWD has a hallow drive shaft and U-joints. I ran out of ideas for now but I'm sure you'll figure it out.
I would demand a rearend rebuild since it's under warrenty. I have always thought that rear wheel drive is a tad bit louder than most any front wheel drive since RWD has a hallow drive shaft and U-joints. I ran out of ideas for now but I'm sure you'll figure it out.
The noise is most likely coming from your rear axle. Its a very common problem ever since ford came out with the IRS for its suvs back in 02 with the explorer/mountaineer and 03 with the expedition/navigator. There is a TSB 05-23-03 for repairing this problem which includes a new ring and pinion and the associated bearings.
With the running rough I really can't help you there, I would need the vehicle infront of me to try to diag anything.
With the running rough I really can't help you there, I would need the vehicle infront of me to try to diag anything.
Here are the steps to deactivate the seat belt reminder.
Preparation
1.Before deactivating/activating the belt minder, set the parking brake.
2.Place the transmission range selector lever in P (PARK).
3.Place the ignition switch in the OFF position.
4.Close all the vehicle doors.
5.Unbuckle the driver safety belt.
6.Place the parking lamps/headlamps switch in the OFF position.
Deactivating/Activating
1.Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. (Do not start the engine.)
2.Wait until the safety belt warning lamp turns off (approximately 1 to 2 minutes).
3.NOTE: Steps 3 through 5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure must be repeated.
Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt 3 times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled. This portion of the procedure can be done before or during belt minder warning activation.
4.Turn the parking lamps/headlamps ON then OFF.
5.Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt 3 times ending with the safety belt unbuckled. After this step the safety belt warning lamp will be illuminated for 3 seconds.
6.Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning lamp turning off, buckle then unbuckle the safety belt. This enables the belt minder if disabled or disables the belt minder if enabled.
7.The following sequence of events confirms the belt minder is enabled:
-flashing of the safety belt warning lamp 4 times per second for 3 seconds
-3 seconds with the safety belt lamp off
-flashing the safety belt lamp 4 times per second for 3 seconds again
8.The safety belt lamp flashing 4 times per second for 3 seconds provides confirmation that the belt minder is disabled.
9.After confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is complete.
Preparation
1.Before deactivating/activating the belt minder, set the parking brake.
2.Place the transmission range selector lever in P (PARK).
3.Place the ignition switch in the OFF position.
4.Close all the vehicle doors.
5.Unbuckle the driver safety belt.
6.Place the parking lamps/headlamps switch in the OFF position.
Deactivating/Activating
1.Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. (Do not start the engine.)
2.Wait until the safety belt warning lamp turns off (approximately 1 to 2 minutes).
3.NOTE: Steps 3 through 5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure must be repeated.
Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt 3 times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled. This portion of the procedure can be done before or during belt minder warning activation.
4.Turn the parking lamps/headlamps ON then OFF.
5.Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt 3 times ending with the safety belt unbuckled. After this step the safety belt warning lamp will be illuminated for 3 seconds.
6.Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning lamp turning off, buckle then unbuckle the safety belt. This enables the belt minder if disabled or disables the belt minder if enabled.
7.The following sequence of events confirms the belt minder is enabled:
-flashing of the safety belt warning lamp 4 times per second for 3 seconds
-3 seconds with the safety belt lamp off
-flashing the safety belt lamp 4 times per second for 3 seconds again
8.The safety belt lamp flashing 4 times per second for 3 seconds provides confirmation that the belt minder is disabled.
9.After confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is complete.
Another gas related question.
When I fill up the tank I can only get in about a gallon and then the pump stops. This happens the whole time im at the pump.Ive tried putting the nozzel in all different directions. The only thing that sort of works is if I actually hold the gas pump nozzel an inch away from the filler neck hole.
Also, the gas gauge never went to full after I filled it today.
When I fill up the tank I can only get in about a gallon and then the pump stops. This happens the whole time im at the pump.Ive tried putting the nozzel in all different directions. The only thing that sort of works is if I actually hold the gas pump nozzel an inch away from the filler neck hole.
Also, the gas gauge never went to full after I filled it today.
I'm not as good with the TSB's as Stunna is, because I no longer work for Ford... but he is correct about the rear end. The 05 V6 Mustangs have the exact same problem.. All whine between 50-60 mph. Ring and pinion, and bearings fix the problem.
Fill up with gas, and it stops the pump is also a TSB, again, also on the 05 Mustang. It has something to do with the filler neck if I remember correctly. Good luck!
Nick
Fill up with gas, and it stops the pump is also a TSB, again, also on the 05 Mustang. It has something to do with the filler neck if I remember correctly. Good luck!
Nick
Bolt on 5.0
Founding Member
If you are filling up and the pump stops the most common problem is a clogged vent tube. Look in the rear of the vehicle there will be a hose running to a high mount possible near the bumper, this is a vent for you evap, alot of times spiders make webs in the a this clog blocks the venting of the fuel tank. Clean any webs out and all will be ok
Bolt on 5.0
Founding Member
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