Any free mods

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by jas142, Dec 15, 2003.


  1. Acidpete

    Acidpete Founding Member

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    EBAY EBAY EBAY

    Mustang is one of the most sold and most searched words.
    God Bless America!
     
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  2. aj1025

    aj1025 New Member

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    This is a apperance mod i came up with yesterday before going to work. I got my factory upper intake out of the closet and used a hair dryer to heat up the pony emblem on top of the plenum. I used a sharp long knife and slid it between the pony emblem and the stock plenum. Once the horse was removed i went outside and lifted my hood to see where could i put the pony. After looking I finally decided to put the pony on the radiator support next to the driver's side headlight. Make sure u put the pony emblem on the lower support next to the headlight, because the upper area is where the hood prop go's. Before gluing the emblem use some rubbing alcohol to clean the plastic. I had some 4 minute setting JB Weld and used it to secure the emblem. Also you will have to use the hood adjustment screws to raise the adjustment just a little so the hood doesn't hit the pony emblem. Nice to look at when the hood is open just my op.
     
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  3. Turbo92PGT

    Turbo92PGT Member

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    What Are "MIL eliminators" or whatever??? I just bought my 98 Stang yesterday
     
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  4. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    If you run an o/r H or X pipe then it will trip the "malfunction indicator light"(check engine) saying that your back 2 cats are not working properly. This does not affect performance, however, if there is another problem that your check engine light is informing you about then you won't know, because it is already on. If you get Mil eliminators, they change the voltage observed by the computer for the o2 sensors and appears to the computer as working properly there for eliminating the Mil light for that issue, hence "mil eliminators". They can be bought for like $60 or so or you can make them very easily for about $3 or so.

    http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=400696
     
    #64
  5. Jackie Chan

    Jackie Chan I didn't read this. Founding Member

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    the 60$ mils allow you to plug n play, the do it yourself type require splicing your O2s which ruins them(\what everyone has told me) , pay now or pay later i guess
     
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  6. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    if you were that worried about it all you have to do is go to some junkyard and and cut both the plugs off both sides and do it that way so all you have to do is "plug-n-play" with your own that only cost you like about $15 or so compared to $60.
     
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  7. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    it doen't even really ruin the o2's because you do nothing to the o2's, just splice the wires, no big deal.
     
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  8. Jackie Chan

    Jackie Chan I didn't read this. Founding Member

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    techs tell me that when 02 wires are cut they are not good anymore. just what i heard. huskercobra would know im sure
     
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  9. krly79

    krly79 Member

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    if that were true, then you would ruin them just by unplugging them
     
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  10. decoy562

    decoy562 New Member

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  11. oldskooler79

    oldskooler79 New Member

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    Okay, it's been awhile since anyone has posted here so let me go at it...


    I've had my 04' GT for 2 weeks now and I just can't stand the fact it's stock. I originally planned to go 500 miles before modding it but that flew right out the window. :D The simplest thing to do is to remove the air silencer and put a K&N filter in that ugly black p.o.s cone housing. While in the process of doing so, it took me a whole 10 seconds to figure out how to make a homemade K&N air filter kit that deletes the plastic cone housing and breath 10x better than just replacing the filter. Check this out fellas...


    What you wanna do is to unbolt the air filter housing and pull it up and let it sit on the side of your engine so to speak. Next, unclip the actual air filter housing and remove the whole plastic cone along with the silencer. Take the silencer and throw it in the garbage. Now if you notice, after removing the silencer there is only about a 20% open hole in the plastic cone that houses the filter so air is EXTREMELY limited going in. The filter itself rests so tightly in the cone that it's almost impossible for any EXTRA AIR to go through. It's forced to suck in through that small opening. So no matter what kind of filter you buy, it does hardly any good by just removing the silencer. So what do we do about this? Easy. Take the snap panel off the plastic filter housing and throw the housing in the garbage so the silencer will have a buddy to play with. Now you should be left with 2 things... an air filter (whether it be a K&N or stock or whatever) and the round snap piece that held the filter housing in it's place. Now get under the hood and you will notice that there's a PERFECT fit to squeeze your filter onto the rubber piece where the actual housing went. But before you put it on there, place the round snap piece around the rim of the air filter (the very edge of it). When you get it tight and snug where it needs to be, snap it in place and you should have a semi-snug fit.

    Almost finished...

    Even after doing all this you'll still notice some slack. What I did was I took 2 springties about 3" long with hooks and hooked the air filter to parts on the MAF or just anywhere I can find that I can get a tighter fit. Using 2 springties should do the trick. Trust me, this air filter ain't going nowhere! Now we basically have a $100+ dollar high-flow kit that looks bada$$ under the hood. and what did we pay? Nothing.


    I'm sure alot of you already did this or either have something similar (maybe even better) and I know there are aftermarket kits that MIGHT flow better but this is for someone who wants cheap and definate performance and can be happy to say it didn't cost a thing. Total installation time = 5-15 min.
     
    #71

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