anyone know where in the o2 sensor wire i should tap into for the gauge and which sensor will be easiest to run wire to? would it just be the one after the in my x-pipe??
autometer fuel ratio gauge
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I could not say which wire you would need to use to get the signal you require
I can let you know you should not cut or splice the wires in the O2 harness.
They are a special wire that has insulation that breaths
I'd get a signal inside the cab down by the pcm
Grady
I can let you know you should not cut or splice the wires in the O2 harness.
They are a special wire that has insulation that breaths
I'd get a signal inside the cab down by the pcm
Grady
Mr Grady is right-on. 
At the puter, it should be 43 (red/blk) for the left side.
And 44 (Gy/LB) for the right side.
You can use a SPDT switch to toggle between both banks. Radio Shack sells a very compact 10 amp switch for a few bucks that works well.
BTW, what do you have after your X-pipe? Shouldnt be nothin' back there.
Good luck.
At the puter, it should be 43 (red/blk) for the left side.
And 44 (Gy/LB) for the right side.
You can use a SPDT switch to toggle between both banks. Radio Shack sells a very compact 10 amp switch for a few bucks that works well.
BTW, what do you have after your X-pipe? Shouldnt be nothin' back there.
Good luck.
Mr Grady is right-on.
At the puter, it should be 43 (red/blk) for the left side.
And 44 (Gy/LB) for the right side.
You can use a SPDT switch to toggle between both banks. Radio Shack sells a very compact 10 amp switch for a few bucks that works well.
BTW, what do you have after your X-pipe? Shouldnt be nothin' back there.
Good luck.
So how does one safely tap into these connections
The idea of cutting and splicing into the harness lead doesn't sound like a good idea to me
Are there special connectors available for this task
So how does one safely tap into these connections
The idea of cutting and splicing into the harness lead doesn't sound like a good idea to me
Are there special connectors available for this task
It's not hard to do at the puter if you can work the harness around to access the wires (they are on the passenger side outer circumference of the harness). One could bare and solder a leg onto the existing wire (nice because the integrity of the OEM wire should not be affected) or use a scotchlock.
With all your mods Toyman, I'd be lookin at a WB anyhow.
sorry i mistyped. i was talking about the sensor in the x-pipe after the headers. so i want to tap into the pcm. that is on the driver's side underneath the dash correct? and i would use that switch so i can get readings on all 8 cylinders as opposed to just 4??
The PCM is in the passenger side kick panel.
Correct, you'd use the switch to view readings from each of the two O2's, rather than only one.
It's still just a stupid light show but it's just a little extra work to do the switch. The gauge can atleast tell you if you have an O2 go to crap completely.
Good luck.
I understood what you said and want to make it clear the wires we are talking about is the wires that are attached to the O2 sensor and have a plug on the other end.
It is those wires that have that special insulation that needs to not be disturbed.
Besides ... the display is gonna be in the cab so why go outside of the cab to find a signal to work the unit.
I needed to lengthen my O2 harness for my LT's.
I just cut the main harness and spliced in some wire of adequate size to lengthen it. Like JT said, you would not wanna do some kind of hack job here. I soldered the connections, used heat shrink tubes to insulate, and taped the entire length of the lengthened harness for that factory like look.
Been all good now since 2002
Like most things ... there is a right and a wrong way to do things :Word:
Nothing is more worse than dealing with a bunch of hacked wires with nasty
looking splices and half azzed connections
Grady
It's not hard to do at the puter if you can work the harness around to access the wires (they are on the passenger side outer circumference of the harness). One could bare and solder a leg onto the existing wire (nice because the integrity of the OEM wire should not be affected) or use a scotchlock.
With all your mods Toyman, I'd be lookin at a WB anyhow.
Actually I have purchased a Zeitronix ZT-2 WB, 3.5 bar MAP sensor and an AEM EMS
The car is off the road for the winter and I'm too busy (own a retail toy store) to even think about doing the installs now
Without looking it up again I believe the AEM has a dedicated pin for the WB but was curious about the wisdom of cutting any harness wire
Is a scotchlock a connector that you place over the existing wire and when closed makes the electrical contact for the wire that is being tapped into
Is a scotchlock a connector that you place over the existing wire and when closed makes the electrical contact for the wire that is being tapped into
You got it.
When it comes to wire taps, I prefer the style where a male spade terminal plugs into the side of the connector. The downside to these is that they *can* affect the integrity of the OEM wire.
I do understand about the concern of modifying an OEM harness
I too have that concern
Here is my main focus when doing so
Do it in a way that won't make the original wire any less effective
which
Mr. JT has already stated
I usually do the following kinds of things
Make connections N O T close to a plug or other connection
That way ...
Its easier to work on when adding the device
and
You can effectively insulate the connection if you later on remove the device
Place some kind of physical strain device to prevent damage should the added
wire becomes tugged or pulled in some way ... a tie wrap works great
I like to solder my connections for that .........
positively known good contact point of the two wires
Be careful of those devices that are pushed over the wire with pliers :Word:
cause
If you use one too small ... You can cut a good portion of the original wire
thus
Making what most likely will be future issues of grief and frustration
Route your wires in such a fashion they don't become damaged by vibration,
sharp metal, heat from any other device, and ... stuff like that.
anyway ... you see what I am trying to say here
Just use common sense here
and
Do things that won't become a hack job over time
Grady
I too have that concern
Here is my main focus when doing so
Do it in a way that won't make the original wire any less effective
which
Mr. JT has already stated
I usually do the following kinds of things
Make connections N O T close to a plug or other connection
That way ...
Its easier to work on when adding the device
and
You can effectively insulate the connection if you later on remove the device
Place some kind of physical strain device to prevent damage should the added
wire becomes tugged or pulled in some way ... a tie wrap works great
I like to solder my connections for that .........
positively known good contact point of the two wires
Be careful of those devices that are pushed over the wire with pliers :Word:
cause
If you use one too small ... You can cut a good portion of the original wire
thus
Making what most likely will be future issues of grief and frustration
Route your wires in such a fashion they don't become damaged by vibration,
sharp metal, heat from any other device, and ... stuff like that.
anyway ... you see what I am trying to say here
Just use common sense here
and
Do things that won't become a hack job over time
Grady
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