Drivetrain Clutch got coated with dust during plasti-blasting

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What I posted was their “premium OEM replacement balancer” which is P/N PB1084N so it’s the no frills and the cheapest one. What Limp has is the “street performance balancer” which is P/N PB1084ST and it has he high vis timing marks.

Go here:


Click on the little pop up aThe botto of the page for their web catalog and enter your car info, the filter the results by “engine” and scroll down.

@limp - and holy crap yes they have gone up about 30%.
 
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So I think I know all the proper steps on changing out the balancer but one thing I’m still not sure on is the installation of the new one. I see some guys using one of those harmonic balancer install tools and I see others just using the bolt to get it in (see the video below at the 15:45 mark).

Can I just use the bolt method and which bolt even is that?


View: https://youtu.be/sq-O06CmRAQ
 
Go to the parts stpre and borrow the installation tool. If you strip out the threads on the snout of the crank your day will be like a wookie just took a dump on you.
 
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Went ahead and ordered the pb1084st street performer like limp has. Also picked up a arp harmonic balancer bolt.

One last thing I’m wondering, how do I torque the harmonic balancer bolt and keep the engine from rotating? It’s a manual.
 
Went ahead and ordered the pb1084st street performer like limp has. Also picked up a arp harmonic balancer bolt.

One last thing I’m wondering, how do I torque the harmonic balancer bolt and keep the engine from rotating? It’s a manual.
Put the car in gear with the emergency brake set........If the engine is not in the car be sure to write yourself a note and tape it to the WS to remind yourself... Its not a real high torque " if I recall "... 80ftlbs???
 
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Sometimes they pry out pretty decent and then other times they are stuck like Chuck. A seal puller can make quick work of them and I have even used a couple short sheet rock screws and then used a forked pry bar or a trim panel popper tool to remove them. This is about the only way I know to get the rear main seal out and it works on the front one as well.

This guy has a great idea on how to install the new one but I would use the harmonic balancer installation tool to do this rather than the crank bolt.


View: https://youtu.be/Mww4wu_R9h4?si=OrvxmiDu-dmkZi6d

Also, use a little RTV sealant (make sure it is compatible with engine oil) on the seal where it pressed into the timing chain cover. Ensures it will not leak at this point.
 
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Make sure you wipe some grease on the seal to crank area
Use some RTV where the metal part of the seal goes on the timing cover...
 
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Sometimes they pry out pretty decent and then other times they are stuck like Chuck. A seal puller can make quick work of them and I have even used a couple short sheet rock screws and then used a forked pry bar or a trim panel popper tool to remove them. This is about the only way I know to get the rear main seal out and it works on the front one as well.

This guy has a great idea on how to install the new one but I would use the harmonic balancer installation tool to do this rather than the crank bolt.


View: https://youtu.be/Mww4wu_R9h4?si=OrvxmiDu-dmkZi6d

Also, use a little RTV sealant (make sure it is compatible with engine oil) on the seal where it pressed into the timing chain cover. Ensures it will not leak at this point.

Picked up a seal puller and got the seal out. The tool left some engravings in the timing cover. Is that gonna be a problem or is it fine?
 

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