Convertible Power Window Electrical/Mechanical Problems.

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Jul 17, 2001
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I bought a new power window switch for the windows, and this is not the problem.

I am getting no power from the "yellow" wire that comes from the left front power window motor. But I am getting power from the Right side front window motor. I checked the left side wire with a tester, and no light.

This only means that there is a problem with the power coming from the motor.
Is there a fuse midway between the motor and the switch. Or is the motor shot?

If I need to replace the motor on the left side there is another problem...

I can not get through to the motor, because there is a black metal plate that is pop riveted to the door. Has anyone ever seen this crappy set up? I am going to have a hard time fixing this problem, because I will only be able to get to the motor if I drill through the rivets. Sheet metal screws will be the only kind I can use, so this is really gonna suck.

Also, I have no idea how to work on the right rear 1/4 window because none of the books, Haynes, etc. cover the workings of the Convertible.


I don't even care about the 1/4 window at this point, but having a fix for the left front might make life a bit less difficult.

Thanks for the help if you care to. :nice:
 
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Here is a picture of the "black metal panel"...

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I checked the manual, and there is not a fuse midway. How can I test to see if the motor is still good, aside from pulling it out?

Plus, does anyone have this horrible door on their car?

Thanks
 
My door does not have that panel. It was easy to get at my window motor. You may find that you dont have to remove that panel. If no power is getting to one of the motors, there is a good chance it is OK. If you have good power and good ground at the other motor, the regulator is prolly bad, but it could be the motor itself. The regulator is attached to the motor and easy to replace. It has a cover over it, you can take that off and take it out, then see if the motor works without it. If so get a regulator. You are on your own with the quarter windows, I have no idea.

You can drill out those rivets and replace them with new ones. The tool is cheap and easy to use.


Heres a good place to start. Find the ground wire going to the switch. Make sure there is no power in it at any time. Then use a jumper wire with some alligator clips to give it a good bare metal ground. Turn on the key and see if the window works. If so cut off that wire and screw it to something and you are done. Thats how my last window job went. Also goto the library and get a better manual, or just buy one. Beats the crap out of wondering where to start.

READ THE SIMILAR THREADS AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE.
 
The regulator:
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is not at fault.

I am getting power to the motor, but the motor does not work. I have found out that the motor is pop riveted with 2 large rivets to the damn plate.

I drilled out all of the rivets holding the plate to the door and the window slid down the door.

I have not removed the two large rivets that attach the motor to the plate.

I put 4 sheet metal screws back in to hold the plate with the motor attached so the window stays up.

Should I just take this mess to Ford and have them mess with it?

Someone must have this plate also, on a 1992 GT Vert.

This is more of a PITA then I can handle with school starting on Tuesday.:notnice:
 

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Dont take it to ford, whatever you do. Drill out the rivets that hold the motor in and replace them with some bolts and nuts. If the motor is getting power and not running, then it may be bad. But you have not gotten to the problem yet, and cant diagnose it. The regulator has 3 plastic balls in it that get deformed and jam the motor. They are real cheap to replace and easy too once you have the motor out. Look at the similar threads at the bottom of the page, I am pretty certain there is a whole write-up there on how to do this repair. It was in 5.0&superfords mag. a few months back too.
 
good stuff from Jerry, as usual. i was gonna chime in to try to help, as i just removed two motors doing my door swap (88 gt vert). but you have it covered. on both my old door and donor door, the motor had 3 bolts holding it in. no rivets. then it just slid out of the regulator teeth and out the speaker hole.

as i recall, the front motors are cheaper than your rear 1/4's (im in the same boat with the rears as you). might want to take the motor apart and look around (doing what Jerry said. i dunno cause i havent been in one yet. will be on the rears). do this, knowing you can get a new motor locally, in case it is toast or you take it apart past the point of no return and cant return (been there, done that).

good luck. sorry i dont have more help to give.
 
subcreep said:
How do you get to the rear 1/4 windows motor? I have a '92 LX conv and my driverside 1/4 window will not roll up (it'll go down just fine). I can hear the motor but can't get to it.
you gotta pop the speaker panel off (whole carpeted deal). also need to pop the switch (i only had to on the pass side; drivers side had longer wires). then contort your arms down in there. i have 18" forearms, so i couldnt get in there. thats as far as i went. should get you started. good luck.
 
subcreep said:
How do you get to the rear 1/4 windows motor? I have a '92 LX conv and my driverside 1/4 window will not roll up (it'll go down just fine). I can hear the motor but can't get to it.

if your rear 1/4 window goes down fine, but wont go back up, it may just be your switch. did you try putting it up with the switch which is on the speaker grille? if it isnt that, then you're going to have to take off your rear quarter trim thingy where your speaker grille is on. there's like 4 screws that hold it on. 2-3 on top and then one right behind the driver's seat. that should give you more room to work with instead of sticking your hand where your speaker grille was.
 
i didnt even know some had a speaker grill. i had to yank the panels to do speakers. on mine, there is a screw on the back part of the panel, on top. it faces the side of the top of the rear seat cushion. easy to miss.
good luck.
 
I know this is an old thread, but gonna give it a try before starting a new one. I have an 89 vert. I was thrilled at how cheap and easy it was to fix the rear quarter window motors and get the windows working again! Now I need to do the same to the front windows, but I need help removing the motor. I did unscrew the 2 nuts which made the motor wiggle but not come out. In the post above, HISSIN50 mentioned that there are 3 nuts. I think I see the 3rd one, but it seemed like it was also connected to the regulator. I was afraid if I unscrew it, the spring tension of the regulator would cause it to take my finger off. So, I thought I check first before doing it :) Is the nut I'm talking about the correct 3rd one, and is it safe to unscrew it? Should I lock the regulator somehow? Where should I keep the window, up or down, to remove tension off the regulator?

Thank you!
Julian
 
If you have a vert you can take pieces of cardboard or rubber/pastic bondo putty spreaders and wedge them in between the outside and inside window and the door edge molding to keep the widow up when you remove the motor from the regulator
 
Thanks foxbobby, I saw that before, but it seemed different on the convertible and even the comments to the video say that. however, it's a good general guide.
 
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I had my passenger door apart 2 years ago for a lock issue didn't really notice difference except for wedging glass? Need to go back in soon my window goes up about 2 inches short of where it should be, guessing maybe a clip? Mine sits outside 365 days a year here in Indiana so she's always needing attention.