Crane 1.7 Roller rockers

[5.0Droptop]

Hey guys I just added my 1.7 crane pedestal mount roller rockers to the vert. They seem to be as noisy as my stocker stamped 1.6 rockers....This sound normal? I have always heard they are a little noisey? Let me know. Thanks!

BTW I followed the instructions that Crane has it said to make sure the Flat side of the piviot was up for the bolt head to mate to, it said to make sure both valves closed and to run the bolt in by hand and the it should preload lifter .015-.020" and it should Torq within .25 - 1 full turn ......... they all torqed at 3/4 turn so I am ceritian its correct there. I had to grind both valve covers where the baffle is on passinger side and where it would have been on driver side. Evey thing sounds normal. Just seems like they are as noisy as my stockers is all. It made my exhaust sound a little more lopey and deep.

 

[sn9550]

I'm getting ready to put mine on as well. You would think that they would be quieter but in my experience they're not.

 

[5.0Droptop]

Thats what I have heard also. But I havent had experience till now. I like the extra snap it gave the car.

 

[sn9550]

I put them in last night. They look nice. I won't be able to start it up until I get my GT40 lower back from TMOSS. BTW I like the wheels on your car . I'm hoping I can get a set this month!

 

[5.0Droptop]

Tmoss does great work! I had a Tmoss ported stock lower before I went to the cobra.

 

[Legendary]

Mines are noisey as hell. As long as the oil pressure stays up and the car keeps running I'm hapy. I just learned to leave with it.

 

[DavidF]

Mine are a little noisy, not bad at all though. No one has ever said anything about it. Ive had them for over two years now, maybe they get quite as time goes by.

 

[5.0Droptop]

Thanks for the imput guys. It seems to be fine. I guess I expected them to be real quiet.

 

[cive666]

If they are ticking after putting these on then you have a problem. You do not have enough preload on the lifter. Shims will not help becuase they are designed to take preload off of the lifter. You need more preload, so the only way you will be able to get that is by either a longer pushrod or shaving the pedestal base.

If you do either you run in to even more of a problem with piston to valve clearance on a stock head and piston.

An easy way to check lifter preload is to get a small diameter hose clamp with some rubber and an angled piece of metal and place it on the pushrod just under the lifter, so it can move without any impedance. then you will need a dial indicator with a magnetic base, or some way to fix it in place. Then you place the indicators shaft inline with the push rod and the tip of the indicator resting on your angled piece of metal. Make sure you have access to the bolt on the rocker. Also make sure you have enough preload on the dial indicator, .200 should be good. Now take note where the needle on the indicator is at, then tighten the bolt to spec. When it is tight watch the needle on the tool and you should see it moving very slowly, this is the lifter bleed down. Wait until the needle settles and take your measurement.

For example say you indicator started at .230 and then went to .190 .230-.190 is .040, which is in tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .150 .230-.150 is .080 which is too much and you would need a .040 shim to get it back to mid tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .220 .230-.220 is .010 preload which is not enough. The only way you are going to get more preload is with either a pushrod that is longer or shaving the base of the pedestal mount.

You can also start from a tightened start, just take note that your numbers will go up instead of down.

The purpose of a hydraulic roller lifter is that you can run 0 valve lash and the lifter adjusts its self to heat and rpm changes, so you are not set with a valve lash which causes NOISY ROCKERS.

Having the improper lifter preload can rob your engine or horsepower.

I had 1.7s on my 94 mustang and they were noisy as hell. I thought they would be a direct bolt in, but no. It even says in the crane instructions that a longer pushrod may be needed. On some of my lifters I was getting no preload and sometimes I was lucky with .010. I started to shave the base of the pedestal on some of them but it was taking such a long time, because I was using a file and not a milling machine, I just decided to go with 1.6 roller rockers. And guess what, NO TICKING.

The main purpose to me of a roller lifter verse a stamped one, is that of friction loss which translates in to a slight higher top end and less heat build up. Using a higher ratio isn't worth the strain on a stock valve train, the higher revs with 1.6s is enough wear and tear for me.

 

[gnx547]

Hey guys I just added my 1.7 crane pedestal mount roller rockers to the vert. They seem to be as noisy as my stocker stamped 1.6 rockers....This sound normal? I have always heard they are a little noisey? Let me know. Thanks!

BTW I followed the instructions that Crane has it said to make sure the Flat side of the piviot was up for the bolt head to mate to, it said to make sure both valves closed and to run the bolt in by hand and the it should preload lifter .015-.020" and it should Torq within .25 - 1 full turn ......... they all torqed at 3/4 turn so I am ceritian its correct there. I had to grind both valve covers where the baffle is on passinger side and where it would have been on driver side. Evey thing sounds normal. Just seems like they are as noisy as my stockers is all. It made my exhaust sound a little more lopey and deep.

I have the cranes 1.7 on my mustang and there noisy!

 

[gnx547]

If they are ticking after putting these on then you have a problem. You do not have enough preload on the lifter. Shims will not help becuase they are designed to take preload off of the lifter. You need more preload, so the only way you will be able to get that is by either a longer pushrod or shaving the pedestal base.

If you do either you run in to even more of a problem with piston to valve clearance on a stock head and piston.

An easy way to check lifter preload is to get a small diameter hose clamp with some rubber and an angled piece of metal and place it on the pushrod just under the lifter, so it can move without any impedance. then you will need a dial indicator with a magnetic base, or some way to fix it in place. Then you place the indicators shaft inline with the push rod and the tip of the indicator resting on your angled piece of metal. Make sure you have access to the bolt on the rocker. Also make sure you have enough preload on the dial indicator, .200 should be good. Now take note where the needle on the indicator is at, then tighten the bolt to spec. When it is tight watch the needle on the tool and you should see it moving very slowly, this is the lifter bleed down. Wait until the needle settles and take your measurement.

For example say you indicator started at .230 and then went to .190 .230-.190 is .040, which is in tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .150 .230-.150 is .080 which is too much and you would need a .040 shim to get it back to mid tolerance.

Say you started at .230 and went to .220 .230-.220 is .010 preload which is not enough. The only way you are going to get more preload is with either a pushrod that is longer or shaving the base of the pedestal mount.

You can also start from a tightened start, just take note that your numbers will go up instead of down.

The purpose of a hydraulic roller lifter is that you can run 0 valve lash and the lifter adjusts its self to heat and rpm changes, so you are not set with a valve lash which causes NOISY ROCKERS.

Having the improper lifter preload can rob your engine or horsepower.

I had 1.7s on my 94 mustang and they were noisy as hell. I thought they would be a direct bolt in, but no. It even says in the crane instructions that a longer pushrod may be needed. On some of my lifters I was getting no preload and sometimes I was lucky with .010. I started to shave the base of the pedestal on some of them but it was taking such a long time, because I was using a file and not a milling machine, I just decided to go with 1.6 roller rockers. And guess what, NO TICKING.

The main purpose to me of a roller lifter verse a stamped one, is that of friction loss which translates in to a slight higher top end and less heat build up. Using a higher ratio isn't worth the strain on a stock valve train, the higher revs with 1.6s is enough wear and tear for me.

Whats the next size pushrod length from stock?

 

[cive666]

Ge an Adjustable push rod (link below) and check your preload until it is within tolerances. When you have the preload correct take your adjustable push rod out and measure it, and that is the length you need. Piston to valve clearance might become a problem if you have an engine with pistons that do not have valve relieves cut in them (the half-moon things), some older years did not have them.

Adjustable Pushrod

 

[89LX347]

Noisy Crane Roller Rockers

I just built my 347 with a total Crane cam, lifter, pushrod and rocker arm soultion. From the get go the whole assembly sounded noisy to me. But here is what I did to at least make sure the prelaod was correct.

Number one is to make sure that you have the correct pushrod length. Like it was suggested before get an adjustible pushrod. These are very inexpensive from places like Jeg's or Summit or most other parts houses. Install the pushrod until you get a zero lash. I then adjusted the valve by 1/2 turn past zero lash. Adjust the pushrod so that the contact between the pushrod and the rocker stays about centered on the roller rocker completely through it's rotation cycle. You can watch for this and adjust the pushrod as needed to get the right length. Crane has some good details about how to do this on their web site. Once you get the correct length figured out you will need to be able to measure the pushrod down to .001. Crane offers custom push rod service. I think mine (hardened for roller cam use) were around $140.00 for the set. They got 'em to me in about 5 days.

Anyhow back to what I did to minimize the noise issue. The first two times that I tried to adjust my lash I ended up with several very noisy (ticking) lifters. So I reasoned that my problem was that as I rotated the cam assembly I was compressing the lifters. These lifters usually will not come back to zero lash instantly. As a matter of fact Crane says that you should allow up to 10 minutes for a lifter to return to zero after it has been compressed. I decised to loosen all my spark plugs (so I could rotate the engine easier) then remove all the rocker arms. I started at number 1 and adjusted each lifter in sequence. Each time I adjusted a lifter and went to the next one, I no longer had any lifter collapse to deal with. (Hope all this makes sense) I came up with what I new feel is a very good lash on my valve train.

All in all I am sure there are wizards on here that will give you ltheir versions as how they did it. ..and this is how I did it and it works. The end result still appears that the roller rocker setup is noisy but I always wanted a roller rocker/cam set up. Hope this helps.