Curb Accident Pushed Suspension Back

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by JordanB21, Feb 3, 2014.


  1. JordanB21

    JordanB21 Active Member

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    The tire rubs the rear of the wheel well and I'm not sure which parts I should be looking to replace so what all do I need?
    Mostly looking for a shopping list of recommend to replace while I'm in the area. The car still steers fine other than being misguided.
    Do you guys think the a-arm, control arm, would need to be replaced? what else, thoughts and ideas please.

    thanks, Jordan
     
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  2. Noobz347

    Noobz347 Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor Admin Dude

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    Pictures are worth a thousand words!
     
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  3. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    Well, the parts I can think of that MIGHT be damaged are:

    Control arm
    K-member (essentially the engine cradle, the control arm bolts to it)
    strut
    spindle (part that the strut attaches to)
    steering tie-rod

    Any or all of these may be damaged. The control arm and possibly the k-member are the reason the wheel is back so far. The others could be tweaked and make the steering a little weird. As Noobz347 said, pictures are VERY helpful! Pictures from under the car, showing the control arm and the parts attached to it.
     
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  4. JordanB21

    JordanB21 Active Member

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    Sorry for the extremely late reply, but I've been kind of busy. :p
    Anyways, here are the pictures.
    The wheel is set back pretty far
    The spindle and a-arm (along with k-member) look fine to me, control arm looks questionable, but you guys are the experts so whats say you all now? :D

    Can't wait to drive it though and get the lbs of rust off my rotors..
     

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    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
  5. davis3

    davis3 Active Member

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    Those aren't the best pictures.

    The wheel is clearly not centered.

    it looks as if the lower portion of the sway bar endlink is going towards the rear.
    these should go straight up and down, no?

    I can't tell the condition of the a arm or spindle.

    I would start at the k member.
    Look for signs that it has shifted to the rear on the passenger side.
     
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  6. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Davis, the k-member looks misaligned. The brake lines that go under the subframe look pretty far from the k-member; mine hug pretty close to my k-member.

    When you check the k-member, start measuring distances from parts like the radiator support; both sides should be pretty close.
     
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  7. Mustang5L5

    Mustang5L5 Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt" SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Honestly, this may need to be addressed by a body shop.

    Don't get insurance involved because this may be enough damage to total the car out. Doesn't take much with older Mustangs
     
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  8. JordanB21

    JordanB21 Active Member

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    I began to measure the k-members position like you recommended and I couldn't come up with a ton of measurements before I had to send it off to the shop for the transmission swap.
    But from what I could tell the k-member might be misaligned....not anything really uncovered there. But from the center it looked like it start to unevenly move back.

    While I have it in the shop I asked the mechanics (being i'm just a poor ole' backyard wrench turner) to take a look at it while they have it up in the air too and give me a call about it. If it is the k-member being pushed back, what are some recommended repair routes?
    Possibly k-member could be pushed/pulled back into place by a body shop?
    New k-member? Might spring for a-arms if my pockets are deep enough at the time if thats whats going to happen.


    But for now, the car is in the shop and I can't touch it.

    Oh, and as for the drive without 4th on the highway, it was awful. But feeling the torquey throttle, the jerking in my body, it really reminded me why I like this car so much more than my DD integra.
     
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  9. 94Blue302GT

    94Blue302GT Member

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  10. JordanB21

    JordanB21 Active Member

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    YES, yes it does.
    If it's the k-member for sure, then I'll probably go with a kit like that.
    Down side being that I would have to save for the kit and labor costs (like a month or tax return, lol). Labor costs, because the most I could do on my own are a-arms, control arms, coil overs, spindles, braking components. K-member is just way too big of a job for me.

    While we're in the area of the k-member though, if it does have to be replaced, at least then I could get my oil pan gasket resealed...
    Then I'll just have to rebuild the rear suspension, and then I've replaced everything on the car with the exceptions of the body, electrical and interior.....
     
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