Detailing

1999redcobra

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Jul 11, 2007
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OK i want to detail my car is this a good list to follow? First wash,then clay bar it, then polish it with a dual action polisher, then wax it? What is the difference between sealants and polishes? Im pretty new at all of this so what does all of the Megs #4 and #16 mean and what one do you use. Just need over all general help.:shrug:
 
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difference between sealants and polishes is polishes help polish the paint. The same way you polish aluminum rims (or jewelery) to bring out the shine. They also aid with minor swirl mark/marring removal with the proper pad and machine aka a Porter Cable 7424 polisher.

Sealants well here's a copy and paste
A paint sealant is made of polymers, which are composed of tens of thousands of synthetic particles that are linked together. When a sealant bonds to your vehicle’s paint, it forms a rigid shell. It is not the warm carnauba that seems to melt into the paint. Paint sealants sit on top of the paint like a transparent chain metal suit. They are glossy and slick, but carnauba lovers will tell you they do not have the warmth and depth of a carnauba.

As far as what is Meg#4 or #16 that's a numbering system Meg uses with the Mirror Glaze line (professional line). The Mirror Glaze line is a lot better then what they sell or distribute in most auto part stores and Walmart (NXT line). Napa carries the Mirror glaze line or they can order it if they don't have it. Here an example:Megs #7 would refer to Megs #7 SHow car Glaze and would like like so
product_m07.jpg
 
So is that mirror glaze #7and that mirror glaze #16 the same thing. Are those both wax or is one a sealant. Also if you were doing a full out detail would you wash it, clay it, polish it, then seal it, then wax it or is the sealent the wax. Everything you have told me so far has helped alot just want to get all my facts straight so i dont look like and idiot.
 
No they are 2 completely difference products with 2 completely different functions. The #7 Show car glaze is a glaze, and #16 Professional paste wax is a wax. For what ever reason Megs uses a numbering system with there Mirror Glaze line kinda like part numbers. Think Ford Racing alphabet cams if that helps. When I detail my cars my process is:
Wash
Clay
Rewash-optional
Swirl removal
Polish
Glaze-depending on LSP being used.
Last Step Product (or LSP) wax or sealant.
-Let me explain as simple as possible the last to steps (glazes and LSP) and how they can and can not be used.
First and foremost Sealants can NOT bond with a glaze. Sealants need a clean surface so they can bond properly to the paints surface. Since glazes have oils and some fillers it will keep a sealant from bonding properly. There for will not last as long as it can.
-Caraunuba waxs on the other hand CAN bond with glazes. Since waxes have and use oils they have no problems bonding to the paint.
-Also you can use a sealant by it self. It is a paint protectant(sp?) that last anywhere from 2-4 months (of go longer) depending on which sealant. You can however put a coat of wax on top of a sealant for the added wet look a carnuaba gives. Sealants have more of a reflective shine.
-You CAN NOT put a sealant on top of a carnuaba because of the oils they contain. remember sealants need a clean oil free surface to bond.
Hopefully that isn't to confusing....good luck
 
Ok that helps alot you went through the steps you use when detailing your car can you tell me the exact products of each you use and how you use them like i know you can put polish on with polisher would you put that mirro glaze #16 also on with a dual action polisher. Just dont want to mess anything up!
 
Sure....DAP=Dual action polisher
For heavy swirl removal I use Optimum's Compound with a medium cut pad or a heavy cut pad on a DAP on speed 6.
For Medium to light swirls I like to use Optimum's Polish with a polishing pad on a DAP on speed 5-6.
Any hard wax can be popped out of the container and spread onto a finishing pad. Or take a butter knife and spread it on a pad.
Optimum's products
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-wax.html
A bunch of pads, I use the Edge 2000 pads and adapter just preference.
http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html
Here's a good vid using the PC 7424 DAP *just under the picture and under the vid is a write up article on how to use a pc.
http://www.autogeek.net/po.html
 
Also you will find that different manufactures use either super soft clear coats so the scratch easy and others use a super hard CC. Honda's seem to have a fairly soft CC but man stay away from any Corvettes right now. Corvettes are notorious for having very hard CC. You will need lots of practice before attempting one of these. I don't want to discourage you from doing them. Just know you should wait until you have a better idea on what products can do what and what pads do what.
 
Ya im not going to do any corvettes anytime soon but i just want to do my cobra just want to shine it up a bit so would you suggest Mothers cay bar, Optimum's Polish, and megs #16 wax with a porter cable dual action?
 
Depends do you plan on ordering online or buying OTC?? You can use #16 and be just fine, I was just letting you know not to cake it on. A layer so thin you can hardly see it is perfect. Or if you want to chose another wax that has more give Megs #26 is more forgiving. Once you learn the art of thin layers #16 is your best friend. Doesn't look as good as #26 but will at last it hands down, 2 thin coats can last up to 3 months depending on weather and car wash.
 
Figured I would post all the info I PM'ed for everyone else's benefit.
1999redcobra said:
ok thanks im new at all of this so what is the two bucket method? Do you suggest the mothers clay bar. then is the compound just like polish or can you skip that step and go straight to polishing with a dual action. Then what is SSR1 is that polish. Then lastly what is the #105 and the #951 are those both waxes or what?

Thanks

Two bucket method is essentially using one bucket like you normally do (wash soap in it) and another with just plain rinse water. Then after every time you use your wash mitt instead of just throwing it back into the soap bucket, you rinse it out in the rinse bucket this way no dirt particles get into the clean soap bucket.

Mother's clay is a good start. Great for the money.
Compound is a little more aggressive than polish (more cutting power). SSR1 refers to the Poorboy's World line of products. Basically they start at SSR1 (which is the least aggressive) and goes all the way up to SSR3 which is VERY aggressive. Stay away from the SSR3 for now until you get a bit more experience. They have a SSR2.5 that would probably make a good start, then follow it with the SSR1 to finish it up.

#105 is a LSP (Last Step Product). You might think of this as a wax but it is actually a sealant (much more durable). It is made by Duragloss and is called Total Performance Polish but the industry generally refers to Duragloss' products by their numbers which in this case is #105. #951 is also a Duragloss (DG) product called Aquawax. It is a spray wax that is used to boost the effectiveness of sealants like #105. I usually use #951 after every wash to reinforce my wax/sealant.
 
I did not read all post, but sealants are not for freshly cured paint. Factory paint, and old paint they are safe to use on. Fresh paint needs to breathe, and some companies recommend a 60-90 day curring time for fresh paint before you seal it off.
 
I dont think i need a compound my paint is good i just want to shine it up a bit do you think using like megs #9 polish then megs #7 glaze then should i use megs #26 wax or should i use the duragloss #105
 
I found Megs #2 fine cut cleaner, #82 swirl free polish, and # 7 show car glaze all three realy cheap you guys think that would be worth buying a good combo. then i would use #105. What pads for my dual action polisher would i use for those products?
 
Figured I would post all the info I PM'ed for everyone else's benefit.


Two bucket method is essentially using one bucket like you normally do (wash soap in it) and another with just plain rinse water. Then after every time you use your wash mitt instead of just throwing it back into the soap bucket, you rinse it out in the rinse bucket this way no dirt particles get into the clean soap bucket.

I see a lot of people saying they do this, but I really don't see the point. The dirt is on your car already. No matter how much you rinse in clean water, you will still have dirt between your sponge and paint :shrug:

on top of that, all that dirt you are saving from your wash bucket is in another bucket, a bucket you continue to dip you sponge in to clean it

:shrug: