Distributor Cam Gear Type?

[stangman11]

Hey fellas with the help from all of you on stang net I pinpointed my runability problem to a distributor. I cant afford and MSD at this point but still want to enjoy the car so I am just going to pick up a stock one. Went to the local parts store and they told me that their are two different types of material that ford used on the distributor cam gear. I was wondering if their is anyway to tell what kind I have without pulling the distributor out.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

If your cam is a hydraulic roller, you need a steel gear. Don't waste your money on an MSD distributor. There is no aftermarket dizzy that is any better than a stock one in good condition...especially the TFI module. Plenty of guys out there with 800+hp cars with stock distributors.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

If your cam is a hydraulic roller, you need a steel gear. Don't waste your money on an MSD distributor. There is no aftermarket dizzy that is any better than a stock one in good condition...especially the TFI module. Plenty of guys out there with 800+hp cars with stock distributors.

+1 stock electronics work just fine.

 

[jcgafford]

just replaced mine, it was steel. more than likely yours is too.

 

[stangman11]

Thanks for the info guys. I got the new one installed it yesterday and it didnt do anything. If anything the problem is even more consistent no matter if the engine is warm or cold. Under hard load the engine just starts breaking up while climbing rps from 3 grand and up. I am lost at this point not even sure what to check.

To date I have a new fuel pump and filter, distributor, and ignition module no idea where to check at this point.

 

[jcgafford]

have you dumped codes?

 

[stangman11]

Didnt have a chance after I put the new distributor in before then all I had was just the AIR pump code because its not hooked up but that was it.

 

[jcgafford]

Didnt have a chance after I put the new distributor in before then all I had was just the AIR pump code because its not hooked up but that was it.

i would run koeo again and see if it picked anything new up

 

[stangman11]

Ill run the codes again as soon as I get home and post the findings.

 

[stangman11]

I am at the point where I am about to replaced all the igition, wires, plugs and coil not sure where to look next.

 

[stangman11]

Ok well I went from no codes to four again. KOEO 82, and KOER 21,94,44

 

[stangman11]

Any ideas guys hoping to do some more work on it today.

 

[jrichker]

Code 21 – ECT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ECT sensor.
Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ECT can be in error. Warm the engine up until you get good hot air from the heater and then dump the codes again.

The ECT sensor has absolutely nothing to do with the temperature gauge. They are different animals. The ECT sensor is normally located it the passenger side front of the engine in the water feed tubes for the heater.

The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

ACT & ECT test data:

Use Pin 46 on the computer for ground for both ECT & ACT to get most accurate readings.

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer.

Voltages may be measured across the ECT/ACT by probing the connector from the rear. A pair of safety pins may be helpful in doing this. Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector.

Here's the table :

50 degrees F = 3.52 v
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
212 degrees F = .47 v
230 degrees F = .36 v
248 degrees F = .28 v

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.

50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
212 degrees F = 2.07 K ohms
230 degrees F = 1.55 K ohms
248 degrees F = 1.18 k ohms

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg