What purpose does a driveshaft loop serve? I just installed a Spydershaft and was wondering if this would be beneficial to me. thanks guys and gals
A driveshaft loop is designed to keep the driveshaft contained in the event of u-joint failure. It keeps the shaft in the tranny tunnel and away from the floor which can be very dangerous. It's just a steel loop that surrounds the driveshaft. It's a must with high hp applications.
Cool, thanks for the info man. I guess I'm ok right now but once that Zex goes in an I stretch it to the 175 shot I might need to think about that upgrade.
I have a BMR rear loop on the way and in the hands of UPS this week. I am installing an FRPP X-pipe next week and I figured it would be a good time to just go ahead and do the loop at the same time. Even though I don't think I'll be seeing 12 anything, anytime soon....
I would rather run the front loop over the rear loop with a 1 piece DS. If you take the car to the track and run slicks, you could be required to have a safety loop regardless of how fast you go. I have a CHE D/S loop that I bought from www.pmpparts.com with my Spydershaft and it clears the MGW Shifter with no issues.
TGJ, You have the same setup as me so I'll keep that in mind when I'm looking to purchase one. I think with my Zex Nos kit going in I'll be well below 12.99. I damn well better be! lol
With a one piece, you only need a front DSL. If your driveshaft breaks at the front, your car will become a pole vaulter. If it breaks at the rear, it'll just drag and create a spark show. It doesn't hurt to have the rear one, too, but you definitely need a front DSL.
Nice pic Kooldawg! That car is super clean! Stupid question here but can the DS loops be put on without taking the DS off? Looks to me like you can slip it around and then bolt it down. ?
It depends on the DSL. My BMR front DSL needed the front of the driveshaft dropped. I was a bit worried, at first, but then I read a write-up and realized it's super easy to do. Installation was about 1/2 hour from the moment I walked in to the garage, to the moment I left.
The photo of the car on it's side shows the FRPP front and rear DSL installed. These do not require dropping the driveshaft to install. My BMR rear does not require dropping the shaft but the BMR front loop does. The FRPP pair of loops sells for $110 to $130 on the internet.
The FRPP D/S loops are a PIA to install as you have to remove the seats and carpet to bolt them in. The CHE one I have does not require that to be done and I believe that the BMR do not either. The CHE *should* be able to install with the D/S attached to the car.
Thanks for the tip, I didn't realize the "PIA" factor involved here with the FRPP loops. The BMR front or rear use existing holes or hardware and no drilling.
It was at the Ford Racing display last weekend for the NHRA Torco Nationals outside of Richmond, VA. Here are some more pics.
The BMR ones are the only ones that I've seen that require no drilling or carpet tearing. Plus, they're fantastic quality.
CHE is good quality stuff as well. I was going to buy the BMR front D/S loop. I then found out that some with the BMR loop and MGW shifter were having clearance issues and the fact that the BMR piece is currently $35.00 more than the CHE piece. I have heard of other shifters and front D/S loops having clearance issues. I paid $65.00 for my CHE D/S loop from PMP and they still have them on sale for that now. For a $35.00 difference, it was worth it to me to not have the issue with the MGW shifter and to drill the 2 holes for the CHE loop. That said those 2 holes you drill will be hidden so you don't see them anyway.
