Dyno Results

Well this would probably be the easiest meens of troubleshooting, I got a pcv valve, no screen in it but I will replace the valve aswell prior to doing the rear main wich will probably be tomorrow.

btw, you think I should remove the oil fill tube from the stock valve covers & put in a baffle, or will that mess up vacuum for my upper intake ?
 
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People replace the valve regularly; I'd replace the grommet too. They get brittle from heat and cause the valve not to seal - which causes a vacuum leak and reduces the effectiveness of the system. If you're gonna change the seal anyway, I'd go ahead and do that before I messed with anything else and see if it's actually a bad seal.
 
Hey guys fixed my lean issue, all I did was unplug the battery while replacing my rear main & walla when I fired it up it was running so rich I had to back my fuel regulator out to get it to run alright ;)

Scratching my head why dyno shop didn't tell me to do that :shrug:
 
I just looked more closely Ray - your a/f looks to be just over 13 - that's PERFECT for peak power, and not too lean for a naturally aspirated set up. Why do you want to change it? If you richen it up, you'll likely lose peak power. You might pick up a bit down in the 3-4 k range - but it's gonna take a chip/tuner/tweecer to make the kind of changes you need to in order to just affect that part of the curve.
 
Ya but I got around 120# going to my fuel injectors just to get that, I'm gonna get a Pro-M optimizer I think, it has adjustments for both low & high rpm & supposably can fool the coputer to think I got something I don't got to get my pressure down to a reasonable size.
 
Something else has got to be wrong Ray - if you really have 120 psi. 24's are PLENTY of injector to support 270 rwhp - not even close to being maxed out at the 40 psi stock pressure.

I keep coming back to the maf - something's got to be wrong with the calibration....