Egr?

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most delet the EGR and the only problems that come of this is an MIL = "check engine light", I ran one on my car for many years and never/ever any problems from it. also as stated above, we sell a delete kit (for $10.95+ shipping, comes wth plate, bolts, gasket and a cap for the header) which is on sale in my "Parts Forum" over at Modular Depot
 
A little leaner, true, but not dangerous. It is important to note it does change the A/F ratio for thosae running on the lean side anyways. They can be pushed into dangerous territory. The stock calibration maps can't compensate for no EGR on their own as EGR is mapped into them.
 
StangPro said:
A little leaner, true, but not dangerous. It is important to note it does change the A/F ratio for thosae running on the lean side anyways. They can be pushed into dangerous territory. The stock calibration maps can't compensate for no EGR on their own as EGR is mapped into them.
Really? Could you explain wich calibation maps we are talking about here? Since you wer talking about normal driving conditions, I would assume you are talking about the Maf transfer or the stabalized fuel table. Neither of which are tied to nor need to compensate for egr. The only thing I can find tied to egr performance wise is timing. Sooo, if you have some more insight on your theory please explain, but if you are simply pulling this out of your ass, please don't add to the growing wealth of false information on this board already.

As a side note, I ran mine without the egr or several weeks before changing the tune, and there was no change to a/f according to my wideband. The only noticable difference was part throttle bucking caused by the added timing.
 
to add some information to HOW to get the EGR back on with an intake spacer, with or without plenum, its pretty simple once you know how. take a larger screwdriver (something that is not going to bend) and slide it under the tube that is not wanting to screw back in. pry it up till it resists from being on the top of the inlet (instead of the bottom where it was to begin with)(also note that this is a VERY small distance, but you will see it when you do it). now slowly (VERY slowlY) lower your tube as you keep trying to screw the lil attachment back in. somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 the way down back to where it was the threads will catch and pull it back on.

lil time consuming to get it right, but no problem once you do it that way.

Torinalth
 
jstreet0204 said:
Really? Could you explain wich calibation maps we are talking about here? Since you wer talking about normal driving conditions, I would assume you are talking about the Maf transfer or the stabalized fuel table. Neither of which are tied to nor need to compensate for egr. The only thing I can find tied to egr performance wise is timing. Sooo, if you have some more insight on your theory please explain, but if you are simply pulling this out of your ass, please don't add to the growing wealth of false information on this board already.

As a side note, I ran mine without the egr or several weeks before changing the tune, and there was no change to a/f according to my wideband. The only noticable difference was part throttle bucking caused by the added timing.

To clarify, EGR under warm cruise adds timing so it must be compensated out in the timing tables.

The lean condition is simply a function of the air coming in versus the former air (exhaust). There's no direct calibration needed for this, it's just a matter of backing off the timing under warm cruise and turning off the signal that causes the MIL.
Make more sense?
 
StangPro said:
To clarify, EGR under warm cruise adds timing so it must be compensated out in the timing tables.
Partly correct, timing is added under egr based on rpm and load, and is a function of the spark_base_egr_multiplier. BUT there is no need to compensate for it in any tables. Simply setting the egr_system_type scalar to 2 takes care of everything.

StangPro said:
The lean condition is simply a function of the air coming in versus the former air (exhaust). There's no direct calibration needed for this, it's just a matter of backing off the timing under warm cruise and turning off the signal that causes the MIL.
Make more sense?
I still don't see it causing any lean condition especially under closed loop normal driving where adaptive tables make any needed changes.
 
if you're dropping the k-member (which I hope you are) then it won't be a problem. I tried to install mine without dropping the k-member and the damn egr tube kept getting in the way.
 
I dont have any Egr problem.My car already had the egr plus rear O2 sensors off from FORD.Just for everyone's Information.All mustangs that are built and sent overseas have this feature(No back O2 sensors and no Egr):nice:
 
Well overseas don't have strict emission laws do they? It would make sense it they didn't.

Yep, I'm dropping the kmember. I read that it may hit the firewall, which I hope mine doesn't. I've given myself wed afternoon, thursday, friday morning, and sunday to do my LT install. I hope that's enough time. I'm not very handy when it comes to tools. Took my 5 hours to install my prochamber with 2 rhinoramps, and basic handtools.
 
trinity_gt said:
EGR recirculates exhaust gases (inert, non-combustible) back into the intake tract under certain conditions to reduce combustion temperature which reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOx), a pollutant. EGR is disabled completely at idle and at WOT, instead being fed in during part-throttle operation when spark advance is near the maximum.

Because EGR is disabled during WOT, you won't get any more power by disabling or removing it.

Indeed, because EGR tends to reduce peak chamber temperatures, by removing it you might just make the engine more prone to detonate under transient throttle conditions (so called "tip in spark knock".)

Just leave it be.

WOW!:hail2: