Electric problem, battery cable touched ground

[95 mustang gt 302]

Hi. I recently changed alternator power wire, I didn't have time to put fuse inline

Somehow it came in contact with power steering pulley and was getting sporadic ground.

I fixed the cable and replaced alternator. But car turns off after 20 min of driving. When I let in cool down, it drives again.

If I don't let cool down it cranks but no start.

With hood open it starts after 10 min,
With hood closed it takes much longer.

 

[General karthief]

See if the computer will communicate with a scanner or use jumper method to make the check engine light will blink, some years don't have a CEL so use a test light

Electrical - How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it... Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on. Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is...

stangnet.com

I suspect a TFI issue but I'd start by checking the computer.
Do this checklist next time it shuts down and won't start.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...

www.stangnet.com

 

[95 mustang gt 302]

Thank you. I ordered tfi sensor. New ignition coil too.

With hood open it restarts much faster then hood closed.

Hood closed it will sit there for 30 min without restarting.

Hood open around 8 min.

It's definitely something under hood.

After it restarts it drives for another 20 min before shutting down.

I'll check fuel pressure next time. Maybe fuel pump relay.

I will check spark also.

 

[nickyb]

Def. Sounds heat related.

 

[Noobz347]

I'm thinking heat/contact related.

Check [all] of your engine grounds. Loosen, clean, and reinstall each of the grounds strap bolts. Check the starter for burned connections. Bend and move the wires running to and from the starter. Check for burning at the connectors on each end of each of the heavier gauged wires and of course.... Check the condition fit, and finish of the battery terminals.

My guess is that you've got some burned contacts. When everything is cold, you have enough current to roll the starter over... No so much when it's all warmed up.

The trouble is, the longer you run the starter in this low voltage / high current condition, the more likely that it's going to burn up components of its own [if] that hasn't happened already.

So, you have a combination of a weak wiring system causing the burning up of starters. Replacing one or the other might get you by for a bit but I'd tackle the wiring first. Make it 100% and [then] consider replacing the starter.

An inductive current tester might be useful in this scenario. Amazon... Cheap.