Engine Rebuild Quote

JP82mustang

New Member
Oct 19, 2012
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Hey Guys I have a 88 Mustang that I'm going to need to rebuild, I have a set of GT40 heads as well as a E303 cam that will be installed with the rebuild. Here is the quote that they gave me which sounds alot. For that price I can buy a crate motor, What do you guys think??? Im in Cali, San Fernando Valley.

Parts = $2143.00
Labor/Machine Work = $1500.00
Haz. Waste Disposal = $15.00
Total = $3658.00*
*Sales Tax Not Included


The following is included with the engine build:



New Parts:
Scat 4340 Steel I-Beam Rods
Icon Forged Pistons
Total Seal Plasma Moly Rings
Clevite H-Series Rod Bearings
Clevite H-Series Main Bearings
Durabond Cam Bearings
Cloyes True Roller Timing Set
EngineTech Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Manley Chromemoly Pushrods
Ford Racing Pedestal Mount 1.7 to 1 Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms
Ford Racing Rocker Arm Shims
Melling Oil Pump
Melling Oil Pump Drive
Fel-Pro Gaskets with Neoprine Seal
Brass Freeze Plug and Oil Galley Plug Kit
UCM Adjustable Timing Pointer
Oil and Filter


Machine Work:
Block = Bake, Blast, Mag, Mill Deck, Bore, Power Hone, Hone Lifter Bores, R&R Drill and Tap Oil Galley Plugs, Hot Tank Wash Before Assembly
Crank = Clean, Mic, Grind, Chamfer Oil Holes, Micro-Polish
GT40 Heads = Disassemble, Inspect Valve Job and Guides, Check Surface, Pressure Test, Reassemble, Set Spring Pressure
Balance Rotating Assembly = Includes Crank, Rods, Pistons, Rings, Rod Bearings, Balancer, Flexplate/Flywheel
Assemble Engine = Clean all Tin, Parts, and Hardware, File-Fit Ring End Gaps, Dial Check Bearing Clearance, Cam Doctor Camshaft, Degree-In Camshaft, Check Piston to Valve Clearance, Check Compression Ratio, Disassemble + Inspect + Blueprint New Oil Pump, Measure Push Rod Length, Install Valve Train, Install Pan, Timing Cover, Spin Test Engine, Check Compression and Oil Pressure


Labor/Machine Work at no extra cost to you:
Scat I-Beam Rods = Clean, Check Big End Size, Pin-Fit Pin Bushings
 
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I spent roughly $3000 in parts and machining costs on my 351 in my truck, and my dad put the motor together, not the machine shop. So full rebuild and assembly for your quoted price is not bad at all.
But, you have much better/cheaper options out there. I would get a complete low mileage Explorer/Mountaineer engine and then put your cam in along with better valve springs and roller rockers. The engine will come with the GT40 style intake so you'll end up with more power AND will have spent less money. Also you'll need to do a MAF conversion since NONE of the letter cams are Speed Density compatible.
 
sounds about right to me.. thats a lot of parts and work getting done.

if you do the shopping yourself for the parts maybe you could same some cash. machine work sounds in the ball park with price.
 
well for about $500 more you could have a 347ci motor from CHP.

http://www.coasthigh.com/P3471F-GT-F347-LB-p/p3471f-gt-f347-lb.htm
"Usually ships in 6 to 8 weeks" a good machine shop can build an engine is less time than that.
And that price also doesn't factor in shipping costs. It would probably end up to be like $4500 after shipping and taxes.
But all in all, the 347 is a much better deal IMO. Only thing is, I'd hate to buy a 347 and then bottle-neck the hell out of it with GT40 heads.
 
"Usually ships in 6 to 8 weeks" a good machine shop can build an engine is less time than that.
And that price also doesn't factor in shipping costs. It would probably end up to be like $4500 after shipping and taxes.
But all in all, the 347 is a much better deal IMO. Only thing is, I'd hate to buy a 347 and then bottle-neck the hell out of it with GT40 heads.

i hear ya im just putting out options. i built a 357 for like 3gs 2 years ago for my buddies f150 it made like 450 at the crank i think he had afr 165s that he had me put on it but the 165 and 185s are the same casting and i didnt really pay attention he had a hell of a custom cam as well.
 
Gotta remember a crate motor is just a rebuilt motor itself. And usualy done in a high volume. If i was gonna go the route youre talking about just have a local machine shop build you one. If things go wrong with it they are local so warranty work will take less time. I would also look into a stroker motor do some research and you can find decent deals. I got a 331 Dart short block all forged internals built for 4100. Food for thought.
 
i'd just find a low miles motor , i bet you can get one for under a grand, then buy some real heads for 1500 ish... toss it all together with the extra crap and go. for 2-3 grand you'd be better off... much.