Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

[limp]

Nice attention to detail Limp
How do you like that new Holley
I like those intake studsThe car is not on the road yet, but I have started and broke in the new engine, so I cannot say how the carb is going to work quite yet..

Thanks, its not perfect, but this is not going to be a garage queen.... No gasket slippage with the intake studs... They worked well
Its a Summit carb, 500 CFM, that is based off of the old " holley " carb on the sixties mustang.. It does not have end bowls but a top plate like a Carter..
Starting, at Idle, and some revs it sounds like it is going to run quite well.....
This will be my experiment on how a smaller " correctly size " carb will be a better carb for the street.....
Intake stud, Pan studs, and the water pump/Timing cover stud kit from LMR ( yes that was ridiculous in price) made assembly really nice in the areas I used them... Did head bolts and crank bolts though, no studs there....

 

[limp]

Really like that heater hose connection

You are such a weiner general..... Here is a newer pic

 

[AeroCoupe]

I was wondering as I thought you mentioned the heater hose fitting was not permanent awhile back but I’ve had a few cold beers since then.

 

[General karthief]

You are such a weiner general..... Here is a newer pic

now I feel better, thanks.

 

[limp]

I was wondering as I thought you mentioned the heater hose fitting was not permanent awhile back but I’ve had a few cold beers since then.

I am an old man and I can only move so fast....
Now the doc tells me I need two new hips... BS on that....

 

[manicmechanic007]

On a different note:
I got both the cranks I have back from the machine shop for my big block Chev builds
First build I got a forged 427 crank to go with my expensive pistons and H beam long rods
Long rod 427 is somewhat unconventional a 6.385 is .250 longer than stock (piston stays at TDC longer)
With the long rods and me playing with a few cams I should be able to make a high winding 427 to outperform my old DZ 302

 

[limp]

now I feel better, thanks.

Really happy to put your mind at ease.......

 

[limp]

On a different note:
I got both the cranks I have back from the machine shop for my big block Chev builds
First build I got a forged 427 crank to go with my expensive pistons and H beam long rods
Long rod 427 is somewhat unconventional a 6.385 is .250 longer than stock (piston stays at TDC longer)
With the long rods and me playing with a few cams I should be able to make a high winding 427 to outperform my old DZ 302

Can you tell us more about your BBC build?

 

[manicmechanic007]

Started with this 69 427 with a cast crank

 

[limp]

Started with this 69 427 with a cast crank

Its been a long time but those would be pistons for an open chamber head for a BBC? I want to call those heads square port, but not sure again, they sure don't seem to be the oval port " pass ' heads? Oval port heads were not available as open chamber, if I recall..

 

[manicmechanic007]

Going to use pistons similar to these but with the pin placement for the longer rod
I will post pictures as I assemble if I can
It will be a while, taking the block over to the machinist next week

 

[JulianR]

Head 2 is cleaned and ready for paint!

 

[JulianR]

Progress motivational pic. One gt40p head installed!

 

[manicmechanic007]

Love the underdrive? billet crank pulley
Who made the balancer?

 

[JulianR]

Dorman Balancer:

https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/harmonic-balancer/p/dorman-harmonic-balancer-594-024/155380_0_0

 

[manicmechanic007]

It looked aluminum to me. Nice paint then

 

[JulianR]

Got both heads finally on the block. Decided to see how the stock pushrods look. I purposefully left the lifters dry (not soaked in oil) per this video:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw&pp=ygUSMzAyIHNldCB2YWx2ZSBsYXNo

According to spec, my stock stamped 1.6 rocker arms are supposed to be torqued to like 18-25 ft lb. I torqued mine to 21. The right rocker arm was snug through the whole engine revolution, while the the left one wobbled when the cam lobe was at the lowest. Also, in the photo you can (kind of ) see the rocker arm wear pattern on the valve. It looks like my pushrods are too short. Am I right? I mean besides the wear pattern, the rocker arm should not wobble. Right?

 

[limp]

When I did mine I purchased 1 new solid lifter ( per the instructions i read) to take the measurements with the Adjustable pushrod tool to measure. I had better luck using my old pushrods to get a more precise measure than the pushrod tool, but my pushrods were really close to stock length.
Yes, I read about taking an old hydraulic lifter apart and making it solid for the measurement, but I was " unsuccessful in this endeavor.... LOL
6.248 if I recall was stock length and I used 6.250......
The claim is that you can perfect your valve/pushrod contact with a combination of pushrod length and shims... My valve contact is really close but not perfect, but my rocker/valve geometry is just right which is more important in my opinion....

 

[manicmechanic007]

I like the roller rockers and the variable rate springs limp
Who made that stuff?
I need some of those rockers for the Cleveland heads on my Boss 302

 

[limp]

Purchased the beehive springs and parts from Alex's....
The roller tip rockers came from Lunati... I just looked that up to make sure, I forget sometimes, and WOW did those rockers go up in price... They are over $100 more than I paid for them.....