Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

Hi All!

Sorry, haven't had much time to work on mustang but now slowly getting back in to it. One quick question-- working on getting my GT40P heads ready, was putting valves back in and started thinking. I ordered my gaskets from FelPro for the stock mustang engine. The kit came with valve seals. Now that I'm using GT40P heads instead of the E7, do I need new valve seals or are they the same size?
 
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Did the kit come with umbrella seals?
If so, then it shouldn't matter. If you are going to run those just make sure the seal goes over the top of the valve guide. Hopefully you got atleast 8 positive seals for the intakes, and you can run umbrella seals on the exhaust. Post a picture of what came in the kit
 
I used Viton seals from Alex's parts on my " P " heads..
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I guess my question is more about size. Not sure how the seals are measured, but the valve stem fits through them and they do seem to seat ok. Are the mustang and explorer valve seals interchangeable? Here's the photo you requested. I'll be using the right 2-- blue and black (one is for exhaust and one is for intake)

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Hi,

I have an 89 Mustang GT, manual. I've owned it for about 10 years. The engine leaks oil (I see it on the ground). Also periodically need to add antifreeze. I've been wanting to pull the engine and at the very least re-gasket it. Make a father/son project of it as well. Ideally, while the engine is out, would like to give it some more power. Was thinking of changing out the heads for something aluminum and would love to change the cams for something a little loopy sounding. Not planing to race, but would like the extra power. So here are the questions:

1. I thought the heads they sell online are plug and play, but you seemed to need to measure and change the pushrods, check valve clearance? I've done auto fixes before, but never actually pulled an engine, will be my first time. Are there any known heads/cam combo for the 302 stock engine that I can just purchase and install and know nothing will break?

2. I see heads for sale for like $1000+ per head. And when you're done with the extras, you're $3-4k in for just top-end engine parts. I may have been asleep for a while, but I bought the whole car for $4500. Paying that much in just engine addons is nuts. Are there any sources you know of where I can buy the new parts I need, heads, lifters, rods, cams, lower/upper manifold and gaskets and be around $2k or less? I've seen like AFR aluminum heads on eBay for about $600 with good reviews.

Finally, I know there's probably an ideal way of rebuilding an old engine-- take it all apart, send it to the shop to get cleaned, measured, honed and so on. I don't have the money to do that. The engine runs and the car drive, at the very least, I just want it not to leak and it's been my bucket list item to pull and engine and clean it up.

Your advice is appreciated.

Thank you!
Julian
You need the proper seats for your heads. Think about putting upgraded value springs in. P heads have weak springs and are known to float. I run dual valve springs on my P heads.
 

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Thanks! Yeah, it's my first and mild build. Didn't want to go too wild
I'm going back together with mine. I just had to pull motor because I broke my torque converter, easier than dropping trans. I'm doing a few minor changes also. Bigger carb and long tube headers. O and changing the 7.5 273 rear for a 8.8 327 rear.
 

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I guess if you're not running much HP they should be fine. They look good though.
Come on man, really? Plenty of 302's running these springs and making a lot of power. Springs do not dictate hp the package does but they can rob it if you are running high closed pressure springs when you do not need them. Anyhow, maybe start a thread on Frankenstein and let JulianR enjoy his project without bashing it.
 
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Come on man, really? Plenty of 302's running these springs and making a lot of power. Springs do not dictate hp the package does but they can rob it if you are running high closed pressure springs when you do not need them. Anyhow, maybe start a thread on Frankenstein and let JulianR enjoy his project without bashing it.
Well actually what I did was have the machine shop order springs that match my cam. I'm running a older Crane cam. Not radical but a bump up. So with the springs and cam matching I have a very little chance of floating and excessive wear due to to much spring. Doing a little research for your build can actually help make more power.
 

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Come on man, really? Plenty of 302's running these springs and making a lot of power. Springs do not dictate hp the package does but they can rob it if you are running high closed pressure springs when you do not need them. Anyhow, maybe start a thread on Frankenstein and let JulianR enjoy his project without bashing it.
And I'm not bashing his project. I'm not like that. I'm turning 63 yrs old next month. I have a lot of experience working on cars. I was a mechanic in the military a few yrs back, lol. I'm just trying to give him information that could help him since this is his 1st build. Also why I posted the article that I had based my build on. Later down the road he can make his changes to it and make his even better.
 
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