Export brace/monte-carlo bar fix/suggestions

Red5oh

Member
Jul 8, 2005
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DFW, Texas
I have a 67 EFI I am finishing up all the final details on and I have a question on the export brace I am using.

Currently, it is one with rod end links on both sides of the brace and there is NO monte carlo portion at all. I saw on the other gentlemans car, he had to modify is severly to fit around the intake.

Question... what should I do for mine? Should I just make a monte carlo bar that fits in front of the shock towers, modify it like the other guys where I will add it to the front of the shock tower mounting points, or just get a new one without the rod ends and it is all stiff/stable?

I can probably get the bar bent up properly to get around the distributor and intake... but I am curious about what the proper width of the shock towers is supposed to be.

Thanks for all the help.
 
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Your brace looks cool, but this OE style brace is actually far stronger. Test it this way. Get the export brace, not the cheapie but the thick deep stamped good one. Then hold it in your hands, and try to crush the ends together. Don't hurt your hands. Now try that with the one on your car. It'll fold like a paper bag. After that, if you really feel you need the Monte Carlo bar, bend one to go over your inlet tube. Just keep it as straight as possible.

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I absolutely agree with you... that is why I am now asking the questions. (excuse the VERY dirty picture) But, if I add the third piece like yours to the front, shouldnt it be the same? It completes the triangle and will definatly keep the towers from moving in all directions.

My biggest thing was the location of the monte carlo brace. the other guy has it attached to the shock tower and yours is in front. Most of the ones I see where people have added one (EFI cases) they are in front like yours... which would be best and do I have to worry about the metal in front of the shock tower? I think the shock tower is MUCH thicker and stronger.
 
Using a simple side to side bar brace, bolt to bolt, without the three bolt flange is asking for trouble. Too much flex force and torque on a single bolt and mounting area sheet metal. It will cause sever cracking. There is a reason the original design had a multi-bolt mounting flange postitioned around the shock tower. But even the extra stength could cause cracks in the shock tower and require a back plate re-inforcement. Still shocks, large sway bar and hard cornering cause a lot of flex torque so get the original design.
 
I absolutely agree with you... that is why I am now asking the questions. (excuse the VERY dirty picture) But, if I add the third piece like yours to the front, shouldnt it be the same? It completes the triangle and will definatly keep the towers from moving in all directions.

My biggest thing was the location of the monte carlo brace. the other guy has it attached to the shock tower and yours is in front. Most of the ones I see where people have added one (EFI cases) they are in front like yours... which would be best and do I have to worry about the metal in front of the shock tower? I think the shock tower is MUCH thicker and stronger.

Don't worry about dirt. You should see mine right now.

The export brace was installed on Mustang being exported overseas, to make them more resistant to shipping damage, and strengthen them for substandard roads.

The Monte Carlo bar was developed for racing, and was also used by Shelby on the early GT350.

The one in the photo is the factory Shelby bar, and is in fact attached to the shock towers, by a pair of triangular steel plates, each has four retaining bolts, and three of them actually pass through the shock tower. The forward location actually strengthens the assembly.
 
Its a Pertronix Flame Thrower Billet distributor.

I tried to install the straight monte carlo bar, but the distributor is at least an inch too tall for it to clear.

I have seen similar issues on other Mustangs as well. I'm not sure what distributor they had though.
 
I had to get a curved monte carlo bar because the straight one wouldn't clear my distributor on my 302.

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But isnt this one that is in front of the shock tower? I see the extra bolts in the fender area, but none in the shock tower... it might be ok with the stock cowl brace...but not mine.

I actually took another picture this morning... it is at least a little cleaner now.
 
NO! Look closer- the bar is attached, via the welded steel plates on the ends, to the front edge of the tower. There are actually SIX bolts penetrating the shock tower itself. This is actually stronger than if it were on the shock brackets, especially when used with an OEM style export brace.
 
NO! Look closer- the bar is attached, via the welded steel plates on the ends, to the front edge of the tower. There are actually SIX bolts penetrating the shock tower itself. This is actually stronger than if it were on the shock brackets, especially when used with an OEM style export brace.

I'm not doubting you... I just cant see it. I see the two on the top of the mount and it appears to be one on the lower portion. That would put three per side and the one might be in the seam between the shock tower and fender extension... is this what you mean?

What about a close up picture.

I am asking, because I might have to make one to clear the EFI stuff. I would like to add it to the shock tower piece, but that would mean removing the shocks and attaching it to the piece under the upper shock mount. IF I could add it where I added bolts to the shock tower and fender extension, I believe it would work out for me.

Thanks so far.
 
I'm not doubting you... I just cant see it. I see the two on the top of the mount and it appears to be one on the lower portion. That would put three per side and the one might be in the seam between the shock tower and fender extension... is this what you mean?
Well, the "seam" is the lap where the apron and tower are welded together, and where the rebound bumper bracket (steel as thick as the tower itself) which attaches on the outside, so it has the added strength of three layers.

I am asking, because I might have to make one to clear the EFI stuff. I would like to add it to the shock tower piece, but that would mean removing the shocks…
Why? You pull two bolts off the shock, raise the end, remove the three shock bracket nuts, slip the cap off the shock, and you're ready to install the export brace.

…and attaching it to the piece under the upper shock mount. IF I could add it where I added bolts to the shock tower and fender extension, I believe it would work out for me.
Putting the brace on top of the shock bracket makes it weaker.

What about a close up picture.
Done. This is the left tower. Note the large bolt holes near the top on the front and rear. These are for the rebound bumper bracket. The upper two seen, and another on top, attach the triangular end brackets of the Monte Carlo bar. Between the three layers already on the car, and the triangular plate welded to the end of the bar, that's a lot of steel.

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5280/4, if youre referring to your 65 Falcon, its not the same as a 65 Mustang. I like your blog too, sweet car. Seeing yours actually made me sign up at the blogger spot too.

i know, i was referring to the 65 mustang that is also in my garage. Haha

thanks for the compliments. Falcons are cool.
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Ok... I think I finally understand where they bolts are... as I have depicted in the ROUGH picture modified.

The L shaped is the stock monte carlo bar, and it makes sense that it is tied into the front of the shock tower, and that 90 degree bend should make it VERY stable from movement in the R-L directions.

I am still thinking the spherical rod ends on mine are NOT going to help in a 'rotational' direction, where the stock (or export brace) will be the best... or even a new one w/o the rod ends. Or... should I just not worry about the rotational end? I am not going to race this car... I just dont want to tear it up either.

Anyway, do I have the picture correct? Or does anyone have a closeup of an actual mounted one if I dont.

Thanks for your patience....
 
I am still thinking the spherical rod ends on mine are NOT going to help in a 'rotational' direction, where the stock (or export brace) will be the best... or even a new one w/o the rod ends. Or... should I just not worry about the rotational end? I am not going to race this car... I just dont want to tear it up either.

Exactly right. Spherical ends should be used only on things you want to move, and structural braces are not on that list.