Fed up with my 5.0. What do the 4.6 cobra's have to offer.

[Numbles]

Im really loosing interest in my 95 gt. The convertable has no handling at all. Which I know can be helped with a suspension. But the speed is also very lacking. Which I know can be changed. But at the end of the day Its still a vert so Im getting rid of it.

Id like to join the ranks of the SVT forums but dont know anything about the 4.6 cobra's so here's some questions to pick everyone's minds.

1. What are IMRC's, Ive heard people having problems with them and if I remember correctly they are specific to the 96-98 cobra which is what I am looking into.

2. Id be getting a full exhaust including Mac l/t's--o/r h-pipe--and a catback I havent decided on. But Ive hear that the Mac l/t's cause the motor to burn oil and run lean. I can understand lean because of the movement of the o2's but the oil burning I couldn't comprehend.

3. With good tires and practice of course. Would a 3.73, full exhaust, and maybe pullies get me into the 12's. How happy are you 4.10 guys. I do alot of highway driving so Im afraid to get em, but if they are fine for everyone else I guess I could deal with it.

And any other recomendations you guys have with looking into a used one.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Craig Mack]

FULL exhaust and gears, along with a killer 60 foot (drag radials) and it would be very possible to run 12's. An intake and chip/timing adjuster would give you that much more leeway.

With 4.10's you will shift into 4th near the end of the track. With any gear you will need to re-learn how to drive. Given you have traction, gears let you get a much better hole shot and keep the car in its power band better. If you are serious about dragging, go with 4.30's or even 4.56's. I haven't been to the track in my Cobra yet, and it will be a RARE occurance, which is why I chose 4.10's.

 

[Numbles]

Does anyone remember the website with the difference gear calculators for different transmissions. For some reason I am really looking forward to getting this car. And I think it would be so much fun to have a set of 4.30's in the back.

 

[5.0's 4 ever]

Here is the website http://www.tchracing.com/tech/gearcalc.php
I have 4.30s in my cobra and love them

 

[Bluehorse]

I've driven a lot of mustangs all the way from a 289 65 fastback I owned, 69 Boss 302, to an 03 Mach and cobra to name a few.

The 01 cobra I have now is one of my favorites.
It handles well and actually gets 20mpg in town. At todays gas prices that not bad and something to consider. Uses 91 octane though.
It has a lot of power and will pull to red line without a struggle, but it is geared a bit high. I'd say go at least 390s or 410s.

The only problems I've had with it is a broken passanger window that was fixed under warranty. There is the famous wheel hop issue with this year that makes these less attractive to those with a heavy foot at the track or stoplights.


The Mach seems to be a better choice for stop light acceleration although the cobra is probably a more rounded sports car.

An 03 or 04 cobra would be hard to beat though. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the above cars as long as you get one that has been taken care of. There is an amazing amount of these cars that are in very good shape.

I know the guy that gets mine when I finally decide to sell it will get a car taken care of like few others. Although, I'm showing no signs of wanting to sell it yet. I don't think I will for at least a few more years.

Good luck

 

[Numbles]

5.0 4 Ever. (LOL) What did tha engine setup cost you if you mind me asking. I was thinking about getting a blower for the first mod and going with a 4.10. With the addition of a blower and a built bottom end, whats the advantage of 03 cobra heads. I have also seen people mention the b-head and deleting the IMRC's. What are the benifits to swapping out parts from different years.

BTW, what can a 96 cobra with good tires, 4.10, exhaust, and a blower run. The absolute worst time, to the average. Anyone have an idea. I know its a guess so a wide ballpark figure will work just fine.

 

[5.0's 4 ever]

My engine setup cost around $6k. The shortblock with assembly of the longblock was $3500, we used my existing block and crank, CP forged pistons 9cc dish, Manley forged H-beam rods, ARP main and head studs, and billet oil pump gears. I bought the cylinder heads and intake manifold used from karkraft, everything else in the engine is brand new, chains, guides, tensioners, oil pan, oil pump, oil cooler, valve covers, etc, that stuff added up to around $1700.
I went with the 03 heads due to the results people were getting from them untouched with stock cams. The 03 head design is very close to the FR500 head but with an even bigger exhaust port. I had already previously ran two used 99 cobra motors in my car so I had already done the necessary changes to run a 99+ motor in a 96-98. I am very happy with the results. My 99 cobra setup was a lot faster than my old 96, but my new setup even with going to a lower boost friendly compression pulls harder and has more low end torque than before and I have not even got the car dyno tuned yet.
The B heads are good set of heads also, they really show strong numbers when ported. I would personally keep the IMRCs unless you are having a problem with them. They are there to provide better low end torque which a 4.6 4v needs badly, even the new ford racing FR500 intake manifold uses a version of IMRCs on it.
A car like you described should at least be able to run very low 12s, with traction and a good driver a 11 sec car.

 

[Numbles]

Thanks for your patience with the noob here. Your info has been great but just one last question.

I have no problem spending the money for cams or ported heads but my question revolves around installing them. There is no real mustang performance shops in Illinois that I would trust taking the valve covers off. If there is one let me know. Is it something you can do on your own or would you recommend sending th motor out to SHM to get everything installed. I am on the better side of being mechanicaly inclined so I think from what ive seen and read that I could do it. But would anyone suggest trying to tackle a cam install on a DOHC.

 

[5.0's 4 ever]

I think it can be done by someone who has a fair amount of experience with these motors, owns a shop manual, has the time and a good amount of tools at their disposal. I work on modular engines all the time at my work, but I decided that when it came time to have mine fully built I would have the pros do it. I'm looking for the 600+hp range when my cobra is done and I know the motor they built for me can take it.
I would personally just get a vortech kit for the car and drive it. You spend around $1400 on just a set of cams and you maybe pickup 15rwhp, get the heads ported and you maybe will be in the 340rwhp range. Or you could put a $4k vortech kit on and make over 400rwhp. If my first original 96 motor did not go out on me I would of went that way. Get a safe tune, drive the car for 10s of thousands of miles, save up for a forged shortblock during that time, then when you want build the motor and turn up the boost.