Flaming river rack and pinion for headered Mustangs

[artbillingsley]

Has anyone bought the new Flaming River Rack and Pinion for headered V-8 Mustangs? I bought one for my 66 Mustang Coupe with a 302 and Stans
p-head style headers. Thay don't fit. The pinion shaft sits against the header and won't install into the bracket provided. Has anyone had this problem and is there a fix?

 

[bnickel]

so far it seems like everyone is having this problem, there are several guys on the VMF who have been through every inch of what you're doing and they haven't been able to get them to fit either, a few of them have sent the racks back to flaming river several times for new crossmembers, third u-joints, you name it. most of the guys that were having that much trouble have ended up sending everyting back and gotten a refund. so far flaming river hasn't been able to come up with a solution that works and in your case, having the p-heads with limited header choices you are probably SOL, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. flaming river is supposedly working on a completely new rack but no word when it will be ready.

 

[Ronstang]

You really don't want the unit anyway.....it is going to have wicked bumpsteer. FR dropped the engineering ball on this one.

 

[INDSKYS]

WHY WICKED BUMPSTEER? I AM CONSIDERING GETTING IT BUT WILL BE A YEAR AWAY . PAINT IS THE CURRENT GOAL.

 

[skywalker]

So what is the best unit to get with headers these days ronstang, give me a no BS assessment?

 

[LMan]

Unfortunately, the 'fix' right now seems to be to wait until the engineering depts of various manufacturers wake up and start earning their paychecks.

 

[Ronstang]

There is going to be wicked bumpsteer because the unit was not well thought out. An easy way to tell is go measure the distance between the inner tie rod pivots on your centerlink and compare that to the distance between the pivots of the FR rack. If they are not the same or within fractions of the same distance then bumpsteer is going to be increased over stock. On a 66 this distance is about 18.5 inches and the FR rack is more like 24 inches.....so you do the math. I noticed this prolblem by simply looking at the rack in it's pre-release press photos and was waiting for someone to confirm it for me......read this thread:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/f...e=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post982981

 

[randallsrack.co]

Rack widths

There is not a rack on the market that can work for old mustangs with the tie rods coming out on each end. It is important to keep the original geometry design to minimize the effects of bump. We have been able to achieve that with our center link design. We have a non-adjustable center link that maintains OEM measurements. We also have 2 center link designs that allow owners with the necessary skills to fine-tune their systems. We have been selling our systems for well over a year and a half with good results. If you have any questions please let us know.
www.randallsrack.com

 

[Route666]

There is not a rack on the market that can work for old mustangs with the tie rods coming out on each end.

So you're saying that even your rack won't work?

BTW:

http://www.rrs-online.com.au/html/products.htm

Left-Hand racks now available. It seems there is a rack on the market that can work for old mustangs...

 

[63_Fairlane]

Randal is saying that side take off units will not work for vintage Mustangs. A center take off rack is the only option as it is much closer to the stock geometry of the factory centerlink. It allows you to keep the long tierod length that these cars come with from the factory.

The two best kits on the market have been the TCP rack and Randals rack and both are center take off units. Of course, TCP seems to be MIA so Randals is the only option besides rebuilding the stock system or adapting something on your own.

Note: That Aussie rack is also a center takeoff unit and looks well made. Have fun with the shipping and handling though!

 

[68 & 00 GT]

annyone have expierence w/ that left hand rack ? I was almost sold on the Randalls rack, but now I'm considering just getting a FR steering box, and forgetting about it all out of paranoia. Seems it's all too much of a PITA

Maybe the randalls guy can explain better in laymans terms I know next to nothing about bump steer, and all that, or the clearance issues etc.. I do know I have a 302 with hooker headers, and would expect it to just bolt in w/ no modifications other than the steering shaft adapter. If I can't install it in my garage w/ regular tools I don't want it. I have $$ waiting I just can't decide on what to do. Honestly I don't care to understand it all, I just want it to bolt right in and work I absolutely hate my steering now. So what's the deal w/ the Randallsrack ?

 

[LMan]

here's a link that explains some basic suspension/steering issues. Its for R/C cars, but the basics are the same. I know Ackermann trips up a lot of folks so perhaps it will help:

http://www.rctek.com/handling/toe_angle_effect_on_ackerman_steering_principle.html

 

[randallsrack.co]

Laymans terms

Our system mimics the original geometry. The center link is mounted in the same location as the original center link and retains the original mustang geometry. The rack comes mounted to the cross member and is a bolt in unit. No welding, drilling or cutting your frame.
If you have any questions let us know.
www.randallsrack.com

 

[68 & 00 GT]

Thanks. Too many opinions floating around. As soon as I clear up my final bill on my paint job I'll be calling you guys to talk more then.

I think I read some thought the Randalls design would be weak b/c of where the centerlink is located, or something like that. I may have an ocassional straight line hard acceleration, but I'll never road race my baby anyway.

thanks randalls -

 

[Route666]

Randal is saying that side take off units will not work for vintage Mustangs. A center take off rack is the only option as it is much closer to the stock geometry of the factory centerlink. It allows you to keep the long tierod length that these cars come with from the factory.

The two best kits on the market have been the TCP rack and Randals rack and both are center take off units. Of course, TCP seems to be MIA so Randals is the only option besides rebuilding the stock system or adapting something on your own.

Note: That Aussie rack is also a center takeoff unit and looks well made. Have fun with the shipping and handling though!

I get what randals said now ta!

As for shipping, there have part of their company in the US, and http://www.rrs-online.com.au/html/united_states.htm says that the prices are US, and include UPS shipping inside USA.

 

[one2gamble]

I get what randals said now ta!

As for shipping, there have part of their company in the US, and http://www.rrs-online.com.au/html/united_states.htm says that the prices are US, and include UPS shipping inside USA.

thats a rather expensive kit, randal I do have a question, how many turns lock to lock and how much worse is the turning radious.

 

[Ronstang]

thats a rather expensive kit, randal I do have a question, how many turns lock to lock and how much worse is the turning radious.

The turning radius is definitely going to be increased and I am not too excited about the two bolts in the center taking all the stress of the centerlink and the force exerted upon them by the tie rods....there is bound to be some deflection there at least and this could eventually lead to failure. I guess only time will tell.

 

[skywalker]

The turning radius is definitely going to be increased and I am not too excited about the two bolts in the center taking all the stress of the centerlink and the force exerted upon them by the tie rods....there is bound to be some deflection there at least and this could eventually lead to failure. I guess only time will tell.

I thought he said at one time that the turning radius is no worse than TCP's rack?

 

[63_Fairlane]

The turning radius is definitely going to be increased and I am not too excited about the two bolts in the center taking all the stress of the centerlink and the force exerted upon them by the tie rods....there is bound to be some deflection there at least and this could eventually lead to failure. I guess only time will tell.

A couple fo questions for Randal:

1. Is all of the force riding on the center bolts or does the mounting block have some guide material for the link?

2. Are all of the include fasteners grade 8?

Thanks for the replies.

 

[68 & 00 GT]

OK Randals that is what I meant in my earlier post. I have heard concern about this before that the design could be weak. My only reason for not calling you guys already.