Fox Front Springs Install Question

rhannigan · Nov 1, 2016

New ball joint pressed on and greased. Spindle reinstalled. Next is the tie rod lower.

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rhannigan · Nov 2, 2016

Shiny new parts! Next up is rotor and bearings, then on to the drivers side.

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rhannigan · Nov 29, 2016

Installed Caster Camber Plates tonight. Also Installed new races and turned the rotors.

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stpete · Dec 1, 2016

I hate to say this after you're done, but after doing the same thing I suggest replacing the control arm bushings also. I've been pretty disappointed with the results of my suspension replacement. Going to have to go back and replace all bushings. Still have a wandering b***h of a car.

rhannigan · Dec 1, 2016

stpete said:
I hate to say this after you're done, but after doing the same thing I suggest replacing the control arm bushings also. I've been pretty disappointed with the results of my suspension replacement. Going to have to go back and replace all bushings. Still have a wandering b***h of a car.

stpete, I checked the front control arm bushings when I had the spring out. Seems as though they have been replaced and are not original. I will keep that in mind however. Thank you for the heads up!

MFE92 · Dec 1, 2016

mikestang63 said:
If you have stock rubber bushings you can tighten it up in the air. If poly you need to wait until the weight of the car is on the wheels. Poly bushings bind- rubber ones don't.

Other way around. The rubber bushings are "captured" and do all their work by deflection alone. If you tighten them with the arms hanging down, they'll be preloaded when the car is at ride height. The urethane ones are free to move, if lubricated properly.

rhannigan · Dec 1, 2016

MFE92 said:
Other way around. The rubber bushings are "captured" and do all their work by deflection alone. If you tighten them with the arms hanging down, they'll be preloaded when the car is at ride height. The urethane ones are free to move, if lubricated properly.

Great advice! I will do this tonight.

mikestang63 · Dec 1, 2016

MFE92 said:
Other way around. The rubber bushings are "captured" and do all their work by deflection alone. If you tighten them with the arms hanging down, they'll be preloaded when the car is at ride height. The urethane ones are free to move, if lubricated properly.

Kee recto mundo. Thanks for catching my early altzheimers moment.

General karthief · Dec 1, 2016

mikestang63 said:
Kee recto mundo. Thanks for catching my early altzheimers moment.

Speaking of urethane busings, what would be the recommended lube? I used vasaline on my rears when I put them in 10 odd years ago and they are developing a squeek.
( insert joke here)

MFE92 · Dec 1, 2016

Go to a hardware store and get a tin of silicone "plumbers grease" and use it liberally. It appears to be the same thing as Prothane or Energy Suspension bushing grease for a fraction of the cost. Also makes a gigantic sticky mess, so wear latex gloves when handling.

General karthief · Dec 2, 2016

Thanks, I don't know 'bout the gloves, ain't no fun if there ain't no mess.

MFE92 · Dec 2, 2016

STICKY mess. Like, gets on everything you touch and doesn't want to come off.

JoeDaddy · Dec 2, 2016

MFE92 said:
STICKY mess. Like, gets on everything you touch and doesn't want to come off.

Where did I put that "That's what she said" joke.........

General karthief · Dec 2, 2016

I'm look'n

Nope, can't find it.
I'll look where I put that 'as old as the hills' say'n.

rhannigan · Dec 2, 2016

Bearings packed, rotors installed, new brake pads and calipers installed. Trying out the new wheels and tires! Love the new front end stance!

Now on to the rear.