Fuel pump shot?

MadMatt5oh

Member
Jan 10, 2003
441
0
16
St Paul, MN
I noticed a few weeks ago that when I get on it a bit (3rd gear at 2500 but floored for a sec ) the car hessitates like its starved for fuel. That problem came back again yesterday and the motor tried to stop while I was criusing at 65 on the way to work. I started running it in forth and that really seemed to piss it off. The engine shut off completely and was harder to start, Now Im revving it back and forth in 3rd gear at highway speeds. By the time I was at a stop light I had a hard time keeping it running/restarting. Much as I suspected 8 hours later - it was a complete angel - but I drove it gently - like I usually do.

ok, I suspect that I may have to pull the tank and replace my fuel pump. Im going to replace the inline filter first :duh:

What do you guys think? As of now, Im not going to drive it anymore until I fix the problem :(
 
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If your fuel pump goes, it just dies. I had one go in my last car. It felt like it ran out of gas, and then that was that. I couldn't hear it priming anymore. It sounds like you may have a TPS problem if it won't run at certain throttle positions. If you do get a pump, get a high volume one so that it will support any mods you do in the future. Any more info you can give will help us diagnose the problem.
 
astronut1885 said:
If your fuel pump goes, it just dies. I had one go in my last car. It felt like it ran out of gas, and then that was that. I couldn't hear it priming anymore. It sounds like you may have a TPS problem if it won't run at certain throttle positions. If you do get a pump, get a high volume one so that it will support any mods you do in the future. Any more info you can give will help us diagnose the problem.

Thanks man, yes thats my philosophy anything that breaks gets replaced with a modded improvement! So you dont believe it to be the pump? It does prime up just fine. I dont have mass air but Ive noticed the car has had a bit of a hunting idle of 800-1000 or so.

I went and ordered a fuel filter from NAPA and the jackass says its in the passenger engine compartment. Is it really in the tank?

What should I do?
 
yeah, a stock maf for now. The fuel filter is actually under the car, in front of the tank. It's held in by a bracket, and takes all of five minutes to change. Here's what I want you to try, though. Take your Idle Speed Control solenoid off the throttle body (it's the thing that looks liek a coke bottle upside down). Get some carb cleaner or TB cleaner, and spray that bitch out good. Get some q-tips and rub all the black crud out of it. Then spray the inside of the TB, while opening and closing it. You'll see a river of black crap coming out. Grab some WD40, and spray a little into the ISC. Drain it out, every last loose drop, and set it aside. Now spray some WD onto the TB butterfly. Open and close it a few times to make sure it moves good. Spray a little WD on the TB cable bracket under the TB for good measure. Put it all back together, with a new gasket on the ISC (you can only get this gasket from a Ford dealer, it's like 2.00), and let it sit. Now put in your new fuel filter, a new (and good) air filter, and try it out. For the first few minutes, the car is going to idle like crap and puff white smoke. Don't worry, that's just the WD40 burning off from inside the intake. Take it for a ride, and see what happens. Hopefully it'll fix it, because for some reason, all driveability problems that I have encountered on my and other cars relate back to the ISC (or IAC, for Idle Air Control). If that doesn't help, throw a bottle of Outlaw fuel treatment into the tank and fill her up. Run the car as hard as you can, burning that tank of gas through. That stuff has worked wonders for me in the past. Usually I'm not one for the "repair in a bottle" theory, but that crap works. If that doesn't fix it, then go after the pump. Get a Walbro 255 LPH on Ebay for like 90.00, and put it in. it takes like an hour (just make sure your tank is as close to empty as possible, trust me.) Everything I've just said should cost no more than 20.00 said and done (other than the pump), and if it fixes it, then you're set. If not, then you've got a clean IAC, TB, and new filters, which is always good. Good luck and keep me posted.
 
yeah, do what astronut said....and you might want to try replacing your fuel pump relay under the drivers seat. its like 8 bucks or something at parts stores and takes all of 2 minutes to replace
 
astronut, I will definately do all of what youve recommended! I guess Ive become accustomed to a gasoline smell in the cars interior. I never have anyone in this car ( not dailly driver) My friend tells me "this car is majorly flamable!" All he can smell is Gas!

Is it a fuel leak? I find it hard to believe because this car has absolutely no rust. No rust to break down a fuel line!

How would I ever track down a fuel leak?

What should I look for after the "preliminaries"?
 
This gas smell is quite prevalent! Its always been there. With the recent gas crisus Im still too busy to look at the reasons why I stop to refuel so much. If I found out I was getting 12 miles to the gallon I wouldnt be surprised
 
I get 11 MPG on a good day, so I wouldn't worry about that. Are you sure it's gas and not exhaust? maybe it's running rich and you've got an exhaust leak. When was the last time you replaced your plugs/wires/coil/cap/rotor setup on your car? Take a look at all of that too. A faulty pump won't cause a gas smell, because that means there's to much gas.
 
MadMatt5oh said:
This gas smell is quite prevalent!

Could you by chance have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator ? Even a stock one could go bad, same principal of vacuum sucking on a diapram. If the diaphram ruptures you start sucking raw fuel. Pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator (on the fuel rail) and check to see if its saturated in gas. If it's not that it could be the fuel vapor canister. Make sure it's not damaged or saturated. Could be lots of other things as well, but well worth tracking down.
 
it might also be the MAF sensor... that prob. happened to my friends 5.0 and he replaced the o2 sensors, that didn't work, then he replaced the TPS sensor, that didn't work, and lastly he went to my friend whos a mechanic and he told him to replace the MAF sensor and that fixed the prob. car ran @ 100% after that. just my guess @ prob.
 
I don't think he has MAF. The more I think about it, it very well could be an ignition problem, where you're not burning the fuel. If it werea fuel leak, you'd see a puddle everytime you park the car. After you try my first suggestions, which now I don't think will do it, look at your ignition stuff. Take your distributor cap off, and look at the rotor and contacts inside. Is it all pitted and carboned up? If it is, replace it, if it isn't, replace it anyway lol. Take a look at your wires. Then throw them out and go get some Ford Racing 9mm wires. They're a better wire, more conductivity, and you can't tell what the inside of a plug wire looks like if it's bad. Then pull a few spark plugs. How do they look? Autolite 25s are cheap enough, so get a new set of REGULAR COPPER CORE plugs, none of that useless platinum **** they'll try and sell you, and replace your plugs. Last but not least, if a cap/rotor/plugs/wires swap didn't help, then get a new coil. Good luck bro, and keep me posted!
 
I experienced nearly identical symptoms on an '86 GT I owned and it was the fuel pump. I replaced the filter first, of course since it's only 15 bucks, but the pump turned out to be the problem. The pump is pretty easy to access so long as you drop the tank out of the car. You can pretty much leave everything hooked up with the exception of your filler nozzle. Once you lower the tank, the pump is removed from the tank simply by turning the metal ring that holds it in place. Line up the slot with the tab and it'll pull right out. If you have a fuel pressure gauge and a soft hose clamp, you can check to see if your fuel pressure regulator or your fuel pump is the bad component. Mail me for the procedure if you're interested. Good luck!
 
I havent been able to do a damn thing about these problems on my car! If Im not working it rains! Damn! Heres more... While driving it will completely cut out with rpms going to zero. If Im patient the driving force will pop the clutch and it will start up again. It "broke down" yesterday. I had pulled over and started it right back up 5 minutes later with no issues. It only seems to play these games when its hot! :shrug:

I have new 9ml FFRP wires, Autolites,cap/rotor.


Should I play "parts replacer and buy a coil? Im not drving this car anymore
 
MadMatt5oh said:
I havent been able to do a damn thing about these problems on my car! If Im not working it rains! Damn! Heres more... While driving it will completely cut out with rpms going to zero. If Im patient the driving force will pop the clutch and it will start up again. It "broke down" yesterday. I had pulled over and started it right back up 5 minutes later with no issues. It only seems to play these games when its hot! :shrug:

I have new 9ml FFRP wires, Autolites,cap/rotor.


Should I play "parts replacer and buy a coil? Im not drving this car anymore

Now that does sound like an ignition module. They can recover somewhat after they cool off. Still having the gas smell ? Must be a different problem.
 
BlackGT89 said:
Now that does sound like an ignition module. They can recover somewhat after they cool off. Still having the gas smell ? Must be a different problem.

Im not sure about anything man. This car is making me sad :( Maybe its gas. My friend sure seemed to think it was when he made his "flamable joke". Its always smelled different but its a very old car.

I just ordered a MSD Blaster TFI coil like my idol :lol: Astronut :lol: :flag:

Are you referring to the TFI coil or no please GOD no, the fcking coil on the side of the distrubutor?!

Ive had one go out on me about 11 years ago on a 87 cougar 5.0. It would run for a block heat up and quit. I thought about that being the problem but usually IMO they leave you much quicker and leave you down longer than a coil
 
Yeah, TFI modules can die. If you've already got wires/plugs/cap/rotor all set, then I guess we can eliminate that. I know the TFI modules can go when they get hot, then cool and work properly again. Did you try the other crap I suggested? If you can't solve it, try this, it's a foolproof way to get it running right: buy a new FRPP GT40 crate motor, a full Bassani exhaust setup, a GT40 intake, a Vortech SC trim, some 42# injectors and MAF, a full MSD ignition, an A9L computer, and a Tremec TKO500 and have a nice day lol. Sure it'll be expensive, but you'll have fun with the car. That's the way I do it. If something breaks, buy it and add a few go fast goodies.


Maybe that idea was over the top, but anyway, try the TFI module. If that doesn't help, get a nice new pump.