FYI Steeda has Idoit reps

[bimmertech]

i would just like to offer up my .02 on strage struts. i set up some mm cc plates on a buddies car that had strange struts on it--fox body struts which is par for a lowered SN. i noted that they required much more top side adjustment to achieve proper bump travel.

i am no drag racer and don't even pretend like i know how to setup a drag car. all i am trying to say is that is pretty excessive adjustment to make a car handle.

fwiw my mm coilovers/cc plates make absolutely no noise---none.

 

[4Jenna]

Using fox struts on a 94-95 isnt ideal, our struts work fine on loweredcars...using the right parts make a diff

Top side adj? I dont understand?

 

[bimmertech]

Using fox struts on a 94-95 isnt ideal, our struts work fine on loweredcars...using the right parts make a diff

Top side adj? I dont understand?

if you use fox struts you gain approx 1" of bump travel and is a very common upgrade for us. most of the struts sold for lowered 94-04 are really fox struts.

as for the top side, i am reffering to the amount of spacers that are required to position the strut properly for bump travel reasons. like i said, that was the only dealing i had with that particular brand and they may be that way for a reason. al i know is the koni's and tockico's(all fox body struts) i have had on my car did not require such drastic spacer arrangements.

 

[4Jenna]

Much comes into play here..you can also flip the CC plates for more strut travel. If fig'ing spacers is what your ref'ing to the easiest way is to basically you just want to make sure you don't bottom the struts out. Compress the strut to see how far it will go down then look at the control arm travel and see when the bump stop hits the frame and make sure you don't exceed the available strut travel.

That easy..no matter if you run the correct strut or not I suppose. Thats why they give you multiple spacers and some even have to make their own spacers.

Hope I understand what your saying.

 

[bimmertech]

Much comes into play here..you can also flip the CC plates for more strut travel. If fig'ing spacers is what your ref'ing to the easiest way is to basically you just want to make sure you don't bottom the struts out. Compress the strut to see how far it will go down then look at the control arm travel and see when the bump stop hits the frame and make sure you don't exceed the available strut travel.

That easy..no matter if you run the correct strut or not I suppose. Thats why they give you multiple spacers and some even have to make their own spacers.

Hope I understand what your saying.

i didn't have a hard time config the spacers. i'm just saying that the arrangement differed very differently from any other strut i had done. so much so that i was worried about hood clearance.

i know jack about stranges valving arrangement--these were the 10 ways--so he may very well have had it setup weird, but that strut had absolutely NO rebound. just another thing i thought was unusual---i would like it if you could expand on why that was.

 

[4Jenna]

Rebound as in extend when outta the car..if so I can answer very easily

 

[bimmertech]

Rebound as in extend when outta the car..if so I can answer very easily

 

[SVT3183]

Good quality parts arent suppose to be cheap! Im not saying that Steeda makes the best parts or anything like that, but hey if you wanna play you gotta pay!

you see any cheap parts in my sig? i'll pay the money but problems + expensive = = steeda

 

[4Jenna]

Strange struts are 100% oil filled thus why they dont "shoot-out" when compressed like struts that are filled with nitrogen do.
This is Stranges "edge" on the industry and gives them better valving control.

the strange struts you can push in and they will barely rebound by themselves, if any at all.
That is 100% normal for them.

 

[Yobi1Kanobi]

I was wondering I have the 3 bolt CC plates. Why would I need 4 bolt ones...

 

[silverstangman]

extra strength for the most part, but even 3 bolt pieces are better than the factory stamped crap.