GT 95 needing some horsepower improvements!!!

[jsanches]

Hello Guys,

I own a Ford Mustang GT 1995 (equiped with the HO 5.0) and would like to improve its horsepower. Currently it is completely stock, except that it has some cold air intake.
I was wondering if I could move up its 215hp to something about 300hp aspirated. I would like to keep it original driveability. In other words, I dont want a big cam. In fact I would not like to change the stock cam.

What kind of change should I do?

I was thinking to change a lot of things:

Some aftermarket headers: maybe some shorty or sould I take full lenght? What is the best?
Cat-back exhaust system with X-pipe?
A better throttle body: something of 70mm?
Roller rockers arms of 1.7 ratio?
Aluminum heads? Which one?

Please advise if I am in the right way...
Thank you in advance,

Juliano

 

[Road_Runna]

Supercharge it.

Heads, Cam, Intake can get you really close to 300.

 

[revhead347]

The blower is really the fastest and easiest way to go. You'll need a cam to get up to 300 hp, but it won't have to be a radical one. It will be perfectly streetable. AFR 165 heads will get you 300hp without messing with the short block or notching the pistons. Trick Flow 170s will get you a little more power than that.

Glad to see a new guy with realistic expectations. Half the new guys ask stupid questions like, "How can I get 550rwhp for $1000?"

Kurt

 

[ratio411]

LT headers will get you the most power, but also the most headaches with least ground clearance.
Shorties are easiest, cheapest, and so long as you stay away from smaller tubes, will give some power.

X-pipe makes added power over a very small rpm range, usually high, and adds the most sound.
H-pipe makes power over a broad range, always makes more torque, and adds only depth to the exhaust sound, not 'roar'.

Off road X or H makes more power if you can do that mod.***

Always use exhaust components that are "mandrel bent".
If you go to an exhaust shop and have pipes custom made, they will almost certainly not be mandrel bent. A 2" mandrel bent pipe can flow more air than a 2.5" pipe bent at the corner exhaust shop.
A staggering number to think about if you ask me.

A GT40/Cobra/Explorer intake can add a bit of power inexpensively. (I got my Exploder intake with everything still attached for 70 bux.)

Edit:
***If you run an off road pipe, you can also gain power by doing away with the air pump!
The only reason for the air pump on your car is to feed air to the cats. Without cats, it has no reason to exist.

 

[ratio411]

Forgot to mention:
Gears

They don't add power, but give the power you do have more leverage and make the car quicker.

 

[jsanches]

I've thought on this, but I think it is a second stage.

Tks

Supercharge it.

Heads, Cam, Intake can get you really close to 300.

 

[jsanches]

Thank you!

I really want some bolt-on heads. Would suggest any?

tks,

The blower is really the fastest and easiest way to go. You'll need a cam to get up to 300 hp, but it won't have to be a radical one. It will be perfectly streetable. AFR 165 heads will get you 300hp without messing with the short block or notching the pistons. Trick Flow 170s will get you a little more power than that.

Glad to see a new guy with realistic expectations. Half the new guys ask stupid questions like, "How can I get 550rwhp for $1000?"

Kurt

 

[jsanches]

What about the shorty equal-leght headers?? I've seen some from BBK. They look interesting, aren't they?

Good tip about the mandrel bent pipes, once I will go to a exhaust shop to have it.

tks

LT headers will get you the most power, but also the most headaches with least ground clearance.
Shorties are easiest, cheapest, and so long as you stay away from smaller tubes, will give some power.

X-pipe makes added power over a very small rpm range, usually high, and adds the most sound.
H-pipe makes power over a broad range, always makes more torque, and adds only depth to the exhaust sound, not 'roar'.

Off road X or H makes more power if you can do that mod.***

Always use exhaust components that are "mandrel bent".
If you go to an exhaust shop and have pipes custom made, they will almost certainly not be mandrel bent. A 2" mandrel bent pipe can flow more air than a 2.5" pipe bent at the corner exhaust shop.
A staggering number to think about if you ask me.

A GT40/Cobra/Explorer intake can add a bit of power inexpensively. (I got my Exploder intake with everything still attached for 70 bux.)

Edit:
***If you run an off road pipe, you can also gain power by doing away with the air pump!
The only reason for the air pump on your car is to feed air to the cats. Without cats, it has no reason to exist.

 

[revhead347]

I recommend switching to longtube headers. They are a little more work to install, but definately worth the money. I assume that since you are in Brazil you are going to want a head that ships ready for install. I would go with a Trick Flow 170cc head and the Trick Flow camshaft to match. AFR also makes an excellent head.

Kurt

 

[jsanches]

You are right, Kurt.
I want head ready to install and that can direct replace my stock ones without any change. It is very important.
Could I use these heads with the stock camshaft?

In case of longtube headers. Could I find some wiring to extend the oxigen sensor wires? Something pluggable.

Tks,

Juliano

I recommend switching to longtube headers. They are a little more work to install, but definately worth the money. I assume that since you are in Brazil you are going to want a head that ships ready for install. I would go with a Trick Flow 170cc head and the Trick Flow camshaft to match. AFR also makes an excellent head.

Kurt

 

[Bullitt95]

I own a Ford Mustang GT 1995 (equiped with the HO 5.0) and would like to improve its horsepower. Currently it is completely stock, except that it has some cold air intake.
I was wondering if I could move up its 215hp to something about 300hp aspirated. I would like to keep it original driveability. In other words, I dont want a big cam. In fact I would not like to change the stock cam.

What kind of change should I do?

I've past 300 flywheel HP with the mods that I've done so if you copy mine but add pedestal-mount aluminium heads e.g AFR 165, 24lb injectors, and a calibrated MAF, you'll go past 350.
Do 3.73 axle gears and since you have a manual tranny, a short throw shifter as well.
I used BBK oxygen sensor harness extension wires (BBK-1676) with my MAC long tube headers.

 

[revhead347]

The Trick Flow 170cc heads will definately work with the stock camshaft, but a new camshaft will be optimum. Since shipping and ready to install is so important, you might consider going through someone like Ed Curtis at Flow Tech Induction. It will be more money, but he will go through the heads, do a little machine work with matched hardware and match a good camshaft to meet your needs. That way you are guaranteed to get the product you need the first time, and bolt on ready to go. It's good insurance when they are getting shipped so far. I'm not sure what the import laws are in Brazil, but I know some places in S. America have heavy import tarrifs, so I'm sure that's a consideration too.

For the longtube headers, there are extensions available, but they are expensive enough that it is more cost effective to buy new O2 sensors if your current ones have any kind of mileage on them. If you get a set of O2 sensors for a 92' Ford Explorer V6 (3.0 or 4.0 doesn't matter) the sensors are identical except they have the correct pigtail length for a Mustang with longtubes. One sensor will have a slightly longer pigtail which works out perfect. If you really just want to get the extensions, BBK offers a set, and they are available through Summit Performance.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Also, if keeping the stock camshaft is important to you, then the AFR 165s might be better. They flow a little less which might work better with the stock cam profile.

Kurt

 

[jsanches]

What kind of mods have you done?

Thanks,

JS

I've past 300 flywheel HP with the mods that I've done so if you copy mine but add pedestal-mount aluminium heads e.g AFR 165, 24lb injectors, and a calibrated MAF, you'll go past 350.
Do 3.73 axle gears and since you have a manual tranny, a short throw shifter as well.
I used BBK oxygen sensor harness extension wires (BBK-1676) with my MAC long tube headers.

 

[ratio411]

Since you asked about equal lengths:
I can't tell you if they truely are worth the difference in price, but they are a bit more hassle.
They take up more room, make plug changes a tiny bit harder than regular shortys, and they like to burn plug wires if you aren't very careful about how you route them.

We have a set of equal MACs on a Fox body...

 

[final5-0]

It seems to me the OP is thinking FW HP
therefore
His goal is not all that tall of an order

You can make that goal with simple GT40 stuff :Word:

Just a few thoughts about modding a 5.0 Stang

If going shorties ... I'd not do equal lengths

You'll not gain much power with a catback
like maybe 5 rwhp if that

I'd not do tb or meter for the level you seek
The OEM parts are more than enough here

If budget is an issue ...
Focus first on the parts that give most gain for buck

Heads, intake, mid pipe would be my first things to upgrade

A cam would help for sure
but
You got a good chance of drivability issues there unless you tune

Other mods such as pulleys, rr's and the like are going to give you next
to nothing so I'd leave them until last

Also ... don't upgrade your ignition
You'll gain nothing but a skinny wallet

Last thing ... Like others have said ...
Steep gears will be the most noticeable thing you'll do
They'll make your car feel a 1000 lbs lighter

Grady

 

[jsanches]

That is an important point!!
I friend of mine told me about it likes to burn plug wires. He also suggested to buy some ceramic coated.

In terms of horsepower and torque increasing? shorty or full lenght? I think full lenght.
Considering that I will need to have my exhaust done by some exhaust shop, I could by either one.

Since you asked about equal lengths:
I can't tell you if they truely are worth the difference in price, but they are a bit more hassle.
They take up more room, make plug changes a tiny bit harder than regular shortys, and they like to burn plug wires if you aren't very careful about how you route them.

We have a set of equal MACs on a Fox body...

 

[RIO5.0]

depending on what your current set-up is...no change will be required to run long tubes & mid pipe if its OEM. I run Mac longtubes, Mac Prochamber and it all bolts up to my stock mufflers/tailpipes. Just bolt it up and it all fits. Long as you stick with one manafacturer your good. If you have a hacked up system its a different story.

 

[final5-0]

In terms of horsepower and torque increasing? shorty or full lenght? I think full lenght.
Considering that I will need to have my exhaust done by some exhaust shop, I could by either one.

Well ... This is one of those things that is not what it might seem when
you first look at it

Talking about peak HP
There won't be much difference between shorty and LT's

BUT ... Peak HP is more suited to a race car than a street car

A street car will be more fun if you got a more broad torque
curve than if you make great numbers just at the top

Now ... when you talk about the ENTIRE power band

LT's will usually produce a good bit more tq from low to mid range
rpm's

You see ... a shorty doesn't have a collector like LT's do
therefore
They can't scavange

That is where the e-pulse from one hole pulls out the spent gas
from another hole

Grady

 

[Bullitt95]

What kind of mods have you done?

Click on My Garage to get full details. I have the following on my wish list but I don't have $3000 spare lying around to buy them:

AFR 165 pedestal-mount 60cc chamber heads (#1472) $1500
Set of 24lb injectors $250
Moates Quarterhorse $500
PA Stallion 3000rpm stall torque converter $770