GT40 Heads what Cam ?

Ray@VSK

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Aug 27, 2004
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Aluminum GT40 Y303 Heads what Cam ?

I have a stock 93 GT I just bought & for it sitting here is a set of Aluminum GT40 Y303 Heads, Polished Cobra Intake, 3:55 Gears, Ram Air, 65mm Throttle body, 73mm Mass air flow, 24# Injectors & 1 5/8 Headers, now I just need to know what cam I should use, I am found of Comp cams but will use a Ford if necessary, what model, part#, etc would you recommend for my setup, I am using my stock rockers & pushrods on these heads so basicaly what I need to know is what cam can I or should I use with the setup I have listed above so not to have to worry about valve clearance or computer modifications or anything else ?
 
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Call comp tech they can set you up, they recommended the XE270hr to me and when the guy building my new mill asked me what cam I thought I told him and he was impressed with the numbers it had...they know there stuff. A custom grind is nice but I think too expensive for the return for his combo which is pretty mild. Just my .02$
 
Scorcher2005 said:
Ed Curtis at www.flowtechinduction.com makes some nice cams.
Ray@VSK said:
lol, thanks but I don't buy no name parts, reguardless the price :shrug:
Well, you could go for one of the CompCams grinds like I’d suggested in your earlier thread. But if you don’t decide to go with one of their off the shelf grinds, you’d be pretty hard pressed to find a better grind then one from Ed Curtis. He’s by no means a “no name” camshaft designer. Although it’s not a Ford, Crane, CompCams label like you’re used to seeing, some of the fastest cars on this board are running one of his camshafts and have made quite a name for his cam grinds. Don’t knock it till you try it.
 
If you have the cash I don't think anyone can make a cam like Ed or Buddy, I wish I could justify the expense to go that route but for me $$ is an issue so shelf cam it is. Judging by your post #'s I think you would do well to take some time and search you will learn TONS about available cams and set up that work well simular to yours.
 
Ray@VSK said:
lol, thanks but I don't buy no name parts, reguardless the price :shrug:

That's funny....If you want the most power out of your setup get a custom cam.

I would get one myself but shipping it to Canada would be absolutely brutal on the price....so I'm just going with a Comp Cams XE270HR for my Edelbrock setup....I've done tons of research and this seems like a very good cam, but with great driveability as well.
 
Ray@VSK said:
No offense, sure there great but I think I'm going to go with the ford E303, $100 can't beat it, Thanks.
No offense taken, but going with the E303, although a popular choice, isn’t the best one. You seem more geared towards what would the cheapest cam you could buy for your car would be, rather than what’s the best choice in cam. These “old tech” single grind Alphabet cams, although cheaper leave all kinds of power and torque on the table compared to ANY off the shelf dual pattern grind. Good in their day, but now I personally consider any of the Ford Cams, second rate and wouldn’t even take the time to swap one into my vehicle.
 
Well I was origionaly planning to keep my stock cam but was worried about having to get a new computer by going to big so figured e303 would be my best bet especialy considering there only $100 and the comp cams are closer to three times that in price, this is not my car when it comes to 93 mustangs & am currently looking for a white 93 convertable & was only going to do the basics to get me by untill I find it :)
 
Ray - I have almost your identical set up, and I started with the E cam. But found it to be a very poor match for what I was looking for - a VERY noticeable drop in bottom end (below 3000 rpm) torque. I ultimately went replaced it with a custom cam from Buddy Rawls, however, it's not too far from the CompCamXE264. There's a reason the alphabet cams are inexpensive, and CompCams are more expensive -- all cams are not created equal. You've spent good money on your other parts - selecting a cam based on saving a few bucks with your choice just doesn't make a lot of sense to me - especially given that the cam is the most important bit in the whole equation. Whatever you decide - be sure you degree the cam on install, and measure piston to valve clearance.
 
http://reviews.stangnet.com/showproduct.php/product/56/sort/7/cat/13/page/1

Well we don't want that, I would be better off with my stock cam then basicaly is what your saying right ? I guess what I'm trying to say is I want a good cam but don't want to have to worry about clearance or replacing computer chips or anything "I'm looking for a cam that I can just bolt on & go".

I'm open to any other suggestions, basically what I am looking for in a cam is to increase in the idle to 4000 range, I don't want no cam that's gonna be worse then the stock one I have now :shrug:
 
Sounds to me like you actually know what you want - which is a big step forward compared to most threads. I think based on what you're saying, you'd be best off just sticking with the stock HO cam. People make great power with the stock cam - and you'll retain stock-like drivability, mileage and emissions control. If you want something to punch it up a bit without hurting the bottom end significantly, I wouldn't go any bigger/wilder than the XE258 or the XE264 -- and I certainly wouldn't put the E in if you like the stock cam's performance below 2500 rpm. You could just add a set of 1.7 rockers for a bit more lift out of the stocker. You should ALWAYS degree the cam install to be sure the cam timing is where it should be. And anytime you install bigger than stock valves, or a cam with more duration - it would be a good idea to check and be certain you have adequate p to v clearance. I think you'd be ok with your heads, and any of the cams we've been talking about. But FRPP advised I check p to v with the Y heads and E cam. Go figure.