I installed my gt40 intake and BBK cold air. the car after trying to set the timing for a loooong time barely runs. And it sounds as if it has a exhaust leak coming out of the lower intake?? Really messed with it for two days. Anyone have ideas? I could get a video of what its doing if that would help.
Vaccum leak....inspect the mating surfaces, you may find a gap. The forward and aft rail from the block/lifter valley to the lower manifold....common area to leak. Start big go small. Get a strong flashlight and go over everything you touched, if you don't see anything, try again with a small mirror and flashlight...you may see things you didn't see before. For the timing.....start from zero, as in making sure the distributor is lined up while #1 is at TDC...in fact, while you're at it...and sure #1 is at TDC, have a look at the balancer as well, see where the numbers are, should be 10-ish +/- a few if you're in the ballpark....that'll be my segway to...you may be chasing your tail trying to reset the timing...balancer may be spun making it tough to get it right. Good luck!
Thank you for the advice ill be going over eerything slowly looking for a leak as soon as the snow goes away again. Good news is the balancer is brand new.
The lower intake bolts were a bit loose. But I believe I found the problem. Im just not sure what to do about it. . the upper intake splits to eitherside instead of blocking the hole in the center??
Thnx Kurt I threaded and plugged it. Now me and the bbk cold air are arguing. With the MAF plugged in it runs but no power. Unplugged it runs badass. I had to switch the MAF module off of my MAF on to the one on the BBK. I'm not sure what hte problem is though.
Common problem with cold air kits. It has to do with the angle the air enters the maf from the input elbow. Try rotating the maf so that the sample tube is at a different clock position. Start b6 trying to rotate the sample tube is on the side of the maf near the inner fender and the plug faces down. Kurt
When the MAF is unplugged it just means the car is running in open loop mode. Meaning the computer stops using sensors and runs in "limp home" mode. When you plug it back in, it returns to closed loop and whatever problem sensor, vacuum leak, etc etc starts playing havoc again. Maybe pull codes and see what that gets ya?
So I pulled codes and got nothing at all. Same problem still exists. Ive went through double checked all my vac lines and plugs sensors. My question is. Is it possible i need larger injectors? Im running the stock 19pound. I figured with my setup that would be plenty. I have a stg 1 trick flow cam gt40 upper and lower BBK cold air and a offroad xpipe but thats it. timings correct and advanced 3 degrees over stock.
19lb injectors are fine for what you're doing. Hate to ask, but did you pull the SPOUT plug while setting the timing? Sometimes it's the little things.....
Check ecu grounds.(harness grounds) Check all connections and plugs in and around engine. Coolant temp sensor for ecu and 02 connections will effect open loop conditions, is coolant properly filled to correct level? Know anybody with scan tool and EEC4 (red)adaptor? Could make diagnosis go much quicker if you see engine data.. reference voltages, tps and alike.
No, thats a good question but yes I did pull the spout. As far as I can tell I have a small water leak around the thermostat housing but everything else looks good.
This is exactly right. If you tried to read the codes from the plug under the dash, you're reading the wrong one. The 5.0 ECU plugs are behind the passenger firewall in the engine compartment. The V6 uses the plug under the dash, and since Ford sells so many V6's compared to GT's & Cobras it was "cheaper" for them to include the same wiring on all 94-95 Mustangs. So, we have a useless plug under the dash. Basic code readers are like $25-30, it's a good investment.
Sorry I'll clear that up there were no codes showing problems. pulled the cods off the passender side fire wall where my OBDI code reader plugs in.
So out of frustration re pulled codes. I have a bunch. however in the middle of pulling the codes the idle smoothed out and the car started to run better. not perfect but better. I put the original complete air system back on. I have the following codes. C113, 157,158,334,556 R116,314,311,334 I'm honestly not sure what will fix these. I looked them up and know what they mean. The fuel system failure 556 doesn't make sense, unless its to do with the alarm system being bypassed. EDIT: I know this thread is getting old, but if anyone can help I really appreciate it I need my car back.
Let's try to simplify the issue. Initially it appeared to be a vacuum leak, perhaps a MAF issue and a timing problem. I'm not so certain these are what you are still trying to deal with. So for starters I would remove the stored codes and then run the car through a few stop and go cycles and then see what the codes are if any. The codes you pulled may have been stored for years unless you recently reset them.
They have been fairly recently reset. However since it cleared up a lot in the middle of pulling codes I don't know that I trust what I pulled. So Ill fix the minor thermostat housing water leak and do exactly what you suggest and see what I have. Thank you for your advice.
