H/C/I Question, Should I Touch the Bottom End?

[final5-0]

Wahts this B&B shortblock you speak of grady? I need a new shortblock and never heard of this one before.

Balanced & Bluprinted or in other words...............................

Nothing is left unchecked and everything is right on the money which would mean the s b is better than what you would get from using an oem block.

Specs like:
piston to cylinder wall
ring gaps
main bearing
rod bearing
yada, yada, yada

Motor will last longer and you'll pick up a bit more power.

Later
Grady

 

[cavscout371]

If the engine is already on the stand not that long as long as there are no problems and your not doing an under/over with the crank/mains.

When I did my H/C/I I had the engine out anyway and tore the bottem end apart mostly so I could look at the condition of the rod bearings and run piston through the parts washer so I could take off the carbon. I got lucky my 138k engine is probably the cleaniest high mileage engine I've ever tore into. My advice is if your going to have the motor out of the car anyway Its not going to hurt anything to pull the oil pan off and make sure everything is ok.

Also buy some new cam lock bolts summit sell them they are not expensive at all but with that many miles you'll be lucky if the bolts dont break when you pull them out (I found out the hard way).

 

[SeventyMach1]

You're not really doing any "MAJOR" mods...... so I'd do a compression and leakdown test with the old H/C/I stuff still on there. If it's good, just do the swap.

 

[scarless]

If your block, crank, and pistons are within minimum specs, then you can do a redneck re-ring job. Clean everything, hone it, new rings $65, bearings $26, chain $30, block plugs $12, oil pump $12, water pump $40 and put it back together and maybe paint it. You will be better off then you were and it should be good for at least 50K more miles. If the block is worn too much, Summit has a deal for $270 including everything except a chain and water pump. FEM-MHP174-300 is .30 over & std crank/rod size, FEM-MHP174-310 is .10 under rods, FEM-MHP174-311 is .10 crank & .10 rods. FEM-MHP174-312 is .20 crank & .10 rods. You get the idea. If you arn't up to doing the re-ring your self, you can always buy an already rebuilt short block.

 

[scarless]

Nothing is left unchecked and everything is right on the money which would mean the s b is better than what you would get from using an oem block.

Not necessarily. It depends on the shop. Unless they turn the crank journals and mains, line bore the mains, and deck the block it will have some "slop" in it. A new Ford short block is very tight! If they just put it together and check if the clearances are "within spec", it's not really blueprinted and it's not worth the money.

 

[final5-0]

Not necessarily. It depends on the shop. Unless they turn the crank journals and mains, line bore the mains, and deck the block it will have some "slop" in it. A new Ford short block is very tight! If they just put it together and check if the clearances are "within spec", it's not really blueprinted and it's not worth the money.

All I know is...from around here...if you pay for a b & b sb, you get all of the above chit.

As far as a new ford block being tight...................

thats part of the prob.......................

its too tight is some places, lol

Anyway................
we are talkin about the same stuff...just in a different way

Later
Grady

 

[scarless]

Some people call it blueprinted if they checked it with plastiguage and it was in max/min specs.

 

[final5-0]

Some people call it blueprinted if they checked it with plastiguage and it was in max/min specs.

That kind of talk would make me very nervous about having one of the local boys build my motor.

They should provide you with a build sheet with all the values of what the various specs turned out to be.

If you see something you don't like......you don't accept it!

Later
Grady

 

[DFG 5OH]

well i might be getting an old bare 302 block. If i can get it cheap enough...like 20 bucks lol...then i'll build that up, and just do a full swap. I still need to do a compression test.