rubber, P/U, it's all the same. Both = deflection Take the car, lift the body of the suspension, then lift on side of the suspension. The leafs try to move and articulate, and one side of the bars will try, but the other side is fixed to the body, causing binding. Just because you can't feel it, doesn't mean it isn't there. Everything else is Crap ? No. But sophmoric would be everytime someone askes about "traction" and not wheel hop, you bring up those bars and tell them to save the money. Like in this thread.
Ohh, a lotta urethane bushing manufacturers won't like hearing that. I have jacked this car every way but loose over the last three decades. No bind. Sorry, I have had extremely good results with Traction Masters on multiple cars for decades. If you want me to lie, and start telling people they are dangerous crap, not gonna happen. I guess you'll just have to follow me around, warning people.:stirpot: You may have to follow this guy, too:
Might be more interesting if I cared about drag racing. I drive my car on the street. I build cars that drive on the street. It would be hard to describe how little interest I have in cars that look like this: I found Atari entirely boring then, too. Facts are pretty subjective, because they depend on circumstance. Friend of mine has a Pro Street, well over 500hp, rear tires from the fender lip to the diff. front tires narrower than my hand. He drove it to work one day, for fun. Hit a patch of damp pavement that hadn't dried in the morning sun yet, on a straight level road. Car spun completely around.
Well, a once every 20 years or so event would be a poor reason, even if it made a difference with the Traction Masters, which I doubt. You really going drag racing with saggy springs? I don't think so. A new set of GT springs is less than $200. Anyone too cheap to buy them probably can't afford Caltracs, Traction Masters, or a full tank of gas. Brian- Nice looking car. Dunno what you have under the hood, but I'm sure there's every chance you could beat me in the 1/4 mile. On the other hand, on the country roads around here, you wouldn't have a prayer keeping up with me. Everything is a choice- some choose the dragstrip, some the open road. Neither is good or bad. Dunno why some think their choice is the only one. Starting to sound a little like politics.
Shelby/GT springs front & rear, 1" front sway bar, Traction Master bars (not the cheap fakes), Kayaba Gas-A-Just shocks, upper control arms relocated down 1", export brace with welded-on cowl reinforcement (the thick Ford brace, not the cheap fake), and Monte Carlo bar, 4-turn steering gearbox,. I used to have the Shelby extended fast steering arms, but tired of them. I had Koni's too, but they were way to stiff for roads around here. I also have a 3/4" rear bar, but it's currently off the car.
I doubt you could keep up in the 1/4 too. I sold the 17" wheels or it might be close on the back roads. I started out to make a TransAm replica for the street. The suspension is similar to yours. Here it is with 560lbs springs and 1.25" sway bar and all. <embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=b270784f-0bd5-479c-99dd-9af701251fe8" width="428" height="352" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br/><a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/69410045_177035.htm">6.94%40100.45</a> And under the hood.
Looks like fun, too bad the autofocus nailed the fence instead of the board. I turbosupercharged a 68 289 car one time (AirResearch T04), started with a C6, later switched to a 4-speed. That one was a draw-through, not a blow-through, on a diverter, so the compressor was bypassed for normal driving. The downside was it had to have a BOSS 429 scoop, while you have a flat hood. Looks like you have all the rear rubber geometry will allow- How do you avoid contact with the wheel well?
I'm getting involved in this discussion late in the game and this may have already been said more or less. Assuming that Cal Tracs just prevent spring wrapup like underriders or traction masters is a mistake. Cal Tracs start where underriders leave off. They take the energy created to prevent spring wrap and turn it force to improve traction. Here is a writeup on Caltracs: The combination of these components changes the pushing point on the car by redirecting the turning action (spring wrap-up) of the rear axle through the Force Transfer Link into the Front Pivot. The Front Pivot Spring Stop Bolt resists this turning motion and also controls the bending of the leaf spring at its thinnest section. The push into the Front Pivot helps the cars weight shift towards the rear of the car because of a new directed angle of force toward the front of the vehicle. (The "Instant Center" moves farther forward). This is where the system emulates a Four link system. The pinion angle is also maintained.
I did not edit the end when the camera was pointed down to leave the audio of the announcer. Here is the timeslip from that pass. Car #56 They only hit when I am loaded down for the track. I carry a small generator, fan, toolbox, tuning parts, ice chest, laptop, chairs, etc. The extra weight causes slight touching of the tire to the quarter. When I buy axles, I will shorten the housing a quarter inch and that problem will go away.
I don't know about you guys but I'm gonna weld my tie-rods and control arm shims on once it's aligned.
