Hello my Mustang Gt friends; please help me
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TrueBlue95GT
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i had the same problem! i just got my car back yesterday from the shop. we figured it out. long story short somehow i managed to fry my ecm/pcu/computer in my car. it also fried the tps sensor and it was reading at huge!! volts. almost full throttle. so it was dumping gas into my engine which caused my spark plugs to get soaked in gas. so i replaced the tps and then the plugs. and sure enough it started! BUT it wouldnt idle would only run around 2500 rpm. and sputtered and spewed and just hated running. also the temp sensor was reading -16C then a second later +80C. and all my sensors were off. this whole time never throwing "a code" so i replaced the computer and it runs like a charm!
Okay....here is the update.....tested the TPS sensor, reference voltage good...signal voltage good. Cleaned and tested the IAT sensor, reference volts good.....at 53 degrees resistance was 46k.....warmed the sensor with a hair dry......resistanced dropped just as it should. Put everything back together and decided to try cranking it over one more time just in case there was a bad connection. It fired....not enough to start but it fired.
Looked again at connections and remembered I un-latched the distributer cap to get the TPS connector off. Put the cap back on....cranked again and nothing. Marked the distributer....loosened the distributer bolt...had a friend crank the motor while I turn the distributer.....started at 26 degrees btdc. Idled a bit ruff...back fired a bit at higher rpm....but it ran.
I'm back to thinking I skipped a tooth or two on the timing chain. Please tell me your thoughts.
Sourcerer, True Blue what do you think....I'm going to start tearing the front of the motor apart in the morning to replace the timing chain. If you think its something else please let me know.
Looked again at connections and remembered I un-latched the distributer cap to get the TPS connector off. Put the cap back on....cranked again and nothing. Marked the distributer....loosened the distributer bolt...had a friend crank the motor while I turn the distributer.....started at 26 degrees btdc. Idled a bit ruff...back fired a bit at higher rpm....but it ran.
I'm back to thinking I skipped a tooth or two on the timing chain. Please tell me your thoughts.
Sourcerer, True Blue what do you think....I'm going to start tearing the front of the motor apart in the morning to replace the timing chain. If you think its something else please let me know.
This must have been a typo. What three code was it exactly (code 11 is system pass on a Fox III, like our 111)?
The MAP function is taken care of via the MAF and EEC.
There's indeed no separate sensor like on a Fox III.
When you turn the balancer back and forth (with a breaker bar), does the rotor move nearly as soon as you start to turn the balancer?
Did you ever have the Dizzy out recently? Any chance the PIP is falling apart?
Have you tried to start it (or redo your crank-it while you turn the dizzy test) with the SPOUT connector removed? This can help circumvent a weak PIP signal.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
First off, if anyone sprays ether into their intake, I don't give a rats ass what kind of condition the fuel system is in, the car will fire! Hell, you could disconnect all the fuel lines and the car will fire. After he said he tried stating fluid and people keep telling him fuel, that's just 100% pissing in the wind at that point.
My step father had an 89 GT and we were driving around one day. Went into the store, came out and no start. Since this was back when I knew squat about Mustangs, he brought the car to a mechanic. Luckily, the mechanic was a good friend of his and very knowledgable with Mustangs. He checked for spark and fuel, both were present.
Sprayed ether in there, same result, no fire. Then he did the SAME exact thing in trying to start the car while turning the dizzy and it started. It had jumped timing as well. New timing chain set and retime the car was golden!
I would suggest you go to NAPA (read: NOT Advance or Autozone) and get yourself a new PIP sensor, they will refer to it as a pick up coil as PIP sensor will not get any results.
Replace your timing set and your PIP sensor and you should be good to go.
My step father had an 89 GT and we were driving around one day. Went into the store, came out and no start. Since this was back when I knew squat about Mustangs, he brought the car to a mechanic. Luckily, the mechanic was a good friend of his and very knowledgable with Mustangs. He checked for spark and fuel, both were present.
Sprayed ether in there, same result, no fire. Then he did the SAME exact thing in trying to start the car while turning the dizzy and it started. It had jumped timing as well. New timing chain set and retime the car was golden!
I would suggest you go to NAPA (read: NOT Advance or Autozone) and get yourself a new PIP sensor, they will refer to it as a pick up coil as PIP sensor will not get any results.
Replace your timing set and your PIP sensor and you should be good to go.
Thank you sir, I agree with the timing chain needing to be replaced.
To all the GT freaks, one thing thats bugging me..........I'm kinda wondering if my cats are plugged. Everything is original and I do have 130,000 miles on it.
I know there are a ton of different exhaust systems, but is there one that can just do away with the cats and leave everthing else stock and is it recommended. We don't have emissions where I live, however if needed I want to be able to put it back to stock easaly.
By the way it was not a typo just the screwed up way I tried testing the "engine on" tests without the engine really running. Now that I just typed this and can now get my car started at 26 degrees BTDC I guess I should run the engine on tests just to see what I get.
To all the GT freaks, one thing thats bugging me..........I'm kinda wondering if my cats are plugged. Everything is original and I do have 130,000 miles on it.
I know there are a ton of different exhaust systems, but is there one that can just do away with the cats and leave everthing else stock and is it recommended. We don't have emissions where I live, however if needed I want to be able to put it back to stock easaly.
By the way it was not a typo just the screwed up way I tried testing the "engine on" tests without the engine really running. Now that I just typed this and can now get my car started at 26 degrees BTDC I guess I should run the engine on tests just to see what I get.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Well, being able to start it at 26* really rules out the cats. Usually your car will just run like crap if the cats are plugged up.
I highly recommend the summit O/R H pipe. It fits perfectly and sounds great! Best of all it's only about 109.00. I've installed a few of them for friends and currenty run one on my car and they are a nice piece.
BTW, was the spout connect in when you were trying to start the car at 26*? Have you tried pulling it out and starting it that way?
I highly recommend the summit O/R H pipe. It fits perfectly and sounds great! Best of all it's only about 109.00. I've installed a few of them for friends and currenty run one on my car and they are a nice piece.
BTW, was the spout connect in when you were trying to start the car at 26*? Have you tried pulling it out and starting it that way?
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I bought mine from Summitracing.com.
And I'm not 100% sure if the computer advances the timing upon starting the engine so it might not make any difference whether the spout is in our not.
And I'm not 100% sure if the computer advances the timing upon starting the engine so it might not make any difference whether the spout is in our not.
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