Just tried to start my new rebuilt engine, and no go. I get spark, the fuel pump runs continuously and their is a hissing noise from the passenger side injectors. Hit the fuel relief valve, and theres plenty of fuel there... pulled the plugs, and they are bone dry... help... I put a new fuel filter in too, can it be installed the wrong way? (Fuel pump continuously running?) Thanks dudes
sounds more like the fuel pressure is not coming up like the pumps not building pressure or the regulator is just passsing all the fuel clear through back to the tank. Frank
ok well i'm having the exact same problem and right now i'm chasing a wiring problem. I checked my TPS and i'm getting 0 volts. I gotta start yankin sensors and checking the VREF. I would first make sure the wiring harness (salt & pepper shakers) are connected and clean. If nothing still, I'd check TPS voltage. Here should be a link to my post...http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=437371 Hope this helps.
Yes, I used a dumby light on the injector harness, the salt and pepper shakers are connected, yes I have juice there. Injector harness is grounded to the back of the bellhousing. The hissing noise concerns me... Jricker said perhaps a bad fuel pressure regulator - stuck open. I'm going to try and swap this out today.
Swapped the fuel pressure regulator on my lunch break, still saem problem. Fuel pump wont shut off, and there is a hissing noise from the passenger side fuel rail. I'm extremly disappointed... Fuel pump?
Start working on the checklist at item #3 for fuel related problems Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs 1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark. Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: A.) Coil B.) TFI module C.) PIP sensor in distributor D.) ECC relay next to computer E.) Fuse links in wiring harness F.) Ignition switch G.) Computer 2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40 B.) Distributor cap C.) Rotor D.) Spark Plug wires E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil 3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start. Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct. Two reasons: 1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased. 2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts. If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4. Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability: A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. C.) Clogged fuel filter D.) Failed fuel pump E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running. Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing. A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too. A.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on. B.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold). C.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors. 4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK. A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car. B.) Failed computer (not very likely) C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently). D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
The only thing I haven't done from that list is use the starting fluid. Fuel pump does not stop priming. I have spark. I have fuel from the relief valve. Injector harness has current. So do the salt and pepper shakers. Coil tested ok too.
I think maybe I should go ahead and put a fuel pump in it. Hate to do all of that work and still not know if that is the right answer here...
Do the tire gauge pressure test, just be careful of the leaks. You should see 36-40 PSI with the pump on and the engine not turning. If the engine doesn't start after trying the ether trick, you have a bad coil or TFI. My OOPs was a bad coil that I couldn't find, and it was expensive to track down.
OMG this is frustrating. I didn't forget about the number one cylinder up when building the engine. The distributor is all lined up correctly. It doesn't even attempt to fire, just keeps turning over. The fuel pump runs non stop when the key is on the on postion only, not acc. I put a new fuel pump in tonight, and a new fuel pressure regulator today. Still same thing. It coughed, and tried to run when spraying ether in the intake. (fun) I have spark. I ran a test light to the injectors and turned it over, and the light pulsed like it should. I get a good light at the 10 pin connectors as well. The spark plugs are dry, brand new still. When I hit the relief valve on the fuel rail, I get gas. I'm at the end of my fuse here...
Hello! I had the same problem and it was the distributor module.When it goes bad the pip in the distrubutor doesn't work right either.That is what tells the computor what fuel injector to fire and when.I don't want to get into deep talk about how the eec and module and pip talk and work unless you want it nice and long. Later Sub
It was teh computer. Plugged my old speed density computer in, fuel pump primed, stopped, car fired off. Of course it won't stay running with that computer and a B303/Cobra Intake/Mass air combo. Plug the "new" (used) mass air computer in, and the fuel pump stays running, car wont start. Quadruple checked the wiring for the conversion, and its all done exactly right. Looks liek after everything I replaced, now I have to get a computer too... my wife is going to kill me in my sleep tonight I think...
I can't belive no one told you to run a quick test (KOEO/ER). That would have (probably) told you the ECC was bad right off.
