Engine Help with carb conversion

@08GT500 has an important error in his response. 351 W blocks are taller than 302 W blocks. Intake manifolds do not interchange on 351-302 motors because of head to head width with the taller deck height, and the 351 shaft has to also be longer. Cams of the same variety (roller or pre roller) are often exchanged, but the timing order has to be set for the cam, and the distributor gear has to be right for the cam shaft gear’s material. The other distributor recommendations to get one from an earlier 302, or go with a HEI hopped up Ford distributor (like a Davis DUI) are possible, with the HEI being simple to wire. Some object to a taller, fat distributor up front on a Ford. But I doubt stock looks are important at this point.
I do not know your plans for oil pressure, but a hardened oil pump to distributor is mandatory on any build I do. The stock one in a crate motor from Marshall, (now Blueprint Engines) twisted up like a Twizzler and broke in a short amount of time.
7991LX... My apologies for the misunderstanding and confusion, But I would never purposely imply or suggest a 351W Intake would work on a 302, only that 289/302 Intake(s) is interchangeable. I’d mentioned information regarding the figment of an 84’ 5.0’ Intake he has, its fit his 93’ GT.. Regarding the Subject, I’m under the impression that “FAST 5.0” is looking to do a simple Intake & Carb Swap with a stand-alone Ignition System that includes ability to change dynamic timing, a Fuel System that’s both safe and effective, to Race in a Stock Class of Dirttrack racing, He’s looking for noting but bare essentials to get him up and Running with Analog interior Gauges.The EEC and everything associated with it- completely eradicated..
 
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7991LX... My apologies for the misunderstanding and confusion, But I would never purposely imply or suggest a 351W Intake would work on a 302, only that 289/302 Intake(s) is interchangeable. I’d mentioned information regarding the figment of an 84’ 5.0’ Intake he has, its fit his 93’ GT.. Regarding the Subject, I’m under the impression that “FAST 5.0” is looking to do a simple Intake & Carb Swap with a stand-alone Ignition System that includes ability to change dynamic timing, a Fuel System that’s both safe and effective, to Race in a Stock Class of Dirttrack racing, He’s looking for noting but bare essentials to get him up and Running with Analog interior Gauges.The EEC and everything associated with it- completely eradicated..
That is exactly what I want to do, I don’t have any parts from an 84 but i plan on just buying a lower part for the carb that i already have. My budget is cheap as can be but not crappy.
 
That is exactly what I want to do, I don’t have any parts from an 84 but i plan on just buying a lower part for the carb that i already have. My budget is cheap as can be but not crappy.
Hi, did you still need ideas and Parts listed for making your EFI to Carb conversion? Thought I’d sent something, apparently never posted it. My apologies, if you still need some ideas- I’ll give you a Hand. Let me know, please. Thanks, John
 
My budget is cheap as possible but quality lol, but that being said, since its a claimer anyone can claim and buy the car at the end of the race, so i don't want to pour money in to it and than have someone claim my car or me lose my points. i have a stock block with after market heads and intake, with the intake going to change soon to a 4 barrel carb, all i need info on is running a 302 without a computer and putting a rev limiter in it.
 
Hello again, Think I know where you’re going. You can pick up Mechanical Gauges & a mounting Plate (Nothing Special- but reliable) with an Oil pressure, Water Temp, Voltage Gauge for 40$ or less...Sounds like your Cam is staying Stock(?). You have the information regarding not running an electric (in Tank) Fuel Pump, dangers associated with, so I won’t re-interate that.
I sent some Links (Below) for the Ignition, Fuel System, Rev limiter..Use the previous links and other Information previously sent to you, make your connections- professionally, “pull the Plug” on your EEC & remove-but hang onto it. Remove and/or disable the existing Circuits- Fuel Pump, Distributor,, Sensors, run some new Wiring to those new setups you’ll have. Pull un-necessary Fuses/Connectors (Unplug and seal off the 2- 10’Pin Connectors in the Engine compartment, remove the Wiring). Some helpful tips on where to get your Distributor, and some helpful & Cost effective methods below.. Pertronix, Durasparks Distributors have the accommodation you seek for being ‘Standalone’, implement a rev-limiter, etc.
Link below::

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm

I scanned around a bit, Found a Rev-Limiter that works with the Pertronix Distributor; above. It’s a bit pricey, (140$) but much cheaper than an MSD Ignition Box! For reference, Link Below:

http://shop.pertronix.com/pertronix-600-digital-rev-limiter.html

Searched and Found a 7PSI “Drop in Tank” Ford Fuel Pump- for 31$. Has Fuel Pump Relay plug setups to absorb the Pump’s Current (in the “Suggested Parts” section, bottom of listing. Verify it’s what you want, Flow rate looks good to me- for 400+HP, but double check suitability, application-regardless! Wire everything through properly Fused Circuit-& the Car’s Fuel Pump through the inertia Switch for added safety, use a Toggle Switch or an Ignition Switched Wire to trigger the Pump & Ignition- get rid of the old, unused Wiring, keep it simple & uncluttered.
Since you will have filled Float Bowl(s)- you no longer require a Prime....Link Below⬇️

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIrOrh_qX03QIVFEsNCh0SpgzqEAQYAiABEgJa0_D_BwE

If you need anything else, or have questions- don’t hesitate to post it! Hope this info. gets you rolling in the right direction. Off to Work I go!. Cheers!!
John