Help with Codes

[Evil Joe]

89 5.0 AOD 140k

The car is basically stock, except that I do not have any cats. However, the smog pump and all the EGR accessories are still in place - I just removed the tube that goes from the H-pipe to the branching point which connects the EGR tube to the smog pump.

Anyways, here are the codes I'm getting:

KOEO:
11..OK

Continuous:
33..Canister or EGR valve not operating properly

Running:
12..Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly
94..Secondary air system inoperative


Another thing, when the car is warming up, the "check engine" light comes on a couple times (which I am assuming is the 33 code). This only happens when the engine is warming up...after its warm, the light stays OFF.

How do I fix this???

Thanks,
Evil Joe

 

[MustangPunk302]

You said eveything is still hooked up? Is there still thermactor air running into the h-pipe you didnt block that off did you? Since you didn't unhook anything, try dissconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes then let the car idle to warmup to relearn its new settings..

 

[bradranger]

cause of problem?

If you removed the pipe from the smog to the H-pipe you will need to block the pipe on the H-pipe or hook that pipe back up. Or one more thing you could get a smog pump delete kit, it saves a little wait plus gives you more room to work.

 

[Evil Joe]

I've attached a pic to help explain my setup.

Its really simple: I've just disconnected the tube that runs from the H-pipe to the tube that leads down from the thermactor. Basically, the smog pump now just blows air into the engine compartment. Also, my H-pipe is an off-road pipe so there are no cats on it.

Any suggestions on what to do about the codes?

 

[Evil Joe]

anyone?

 

[jrichker]

Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif