Wow OK this is my first time on here and the forum to even find anything is a little confusing. My name is Gregg k. From grass valley can. I have a 1995 torch red 1995 gt. It had a aid trans. But after destroying 3 in 4 months I went and did a t5 swap out. I didn't change out the pcm. And that seems to be my next step. It was running just fine until the other day. I start it up and at idle and when I drive it I've got this stumble that I just cannot figure out. I've changed fuel filter cap& rotor wires plugs. And still the stumble. I'm starting to wonder if I have a short happening somewhere. I've put the comp. On diag. And get the transmission error codes but I've had the 5spd in the car for over a year now. The fuel pump is 2yrs new I haven't checked the psi but I really don't think that could be a problem. I am stunped . any one else ever have these issues and maybe have some ideas? I love my car and I am in depression mode. I purchased this car from a good friend that bought her brandnew. This car is what I have used as a tool to keep my sanity after my mom died from pancreatic cancer. Every time the sadness and depression came,I put into this car fixing it up as she was in need. Please some one help me! I'm so lost at this point! I'm a good mechanic just don't know what's going on
Hi My Name Is Gregg K Im From Northern Ca. Grass Valley. I Have A Torch Red 1995 Gt/s 5.0. Ive Had
- Thread starter bloodredsn95
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horse sence
15 Year Member
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
Diode Dynamics
10 Year Member
Txman78620
New Member
94Mustahang
New Member
- Mar 24, 2014
- 3
- 0
- 2
Hi everyone! I have been doing a lot of reading on this site and it seems the Tec Support here is one of the best on the net. Im also having issues with my 94GT which is why I decided to join. Im not getting a checkengine light but I am throwing a 212code(spout grounged). Before comming to this site I have put numerous hours and a bunch of money trying to get her running mint. I did throw a bunch of parts at it because I was under the assumption it would fix the problem. :S
Replaced-
Pluggs, wires, dizzy- cap-hall effect sensor(basically rebuilt it) fuel filter, cleaned all the sensors from air filter to intake mani! Boy was my throttlebody gunky. And a few other things.
Im not a mechanic but I do love playing in the garage ;] I also check fuel pressure and for vacuum leaks. Gonna get to checking the PCV today.
I do have the manual on it, which I buy as soon as I buy any vehicle.
Im stumped! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I love my Mustahang but even more when its running. Btw its Stock! No mods.
Replaced-
Pluggs, wires, dizzy- cap-hall effect sensor(basically rebuilt it) fuel filter, cleaned all the sensors from air filter to intake mani! Boy was my throttlebody gunky. And a few other things.
Im not a mechanic but I do love playing in the garage ;] I also check fuel pressure and for vacuum leaks. Gonna get to checking the PCV today.
I do have the manual on it, which I buy as soon as I buy any vehicle.
Im stumped! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I love my Mustahang but even more when its running. Btw its Stock! No mods.
Txman78620
New Member
Txman78620
New Member
I would have the ignition module tested at a Autoparts store like O'Riellys. If its good then check your wiring for cuts in the insulation to your spout connector and ignition module.
94Mustahang
New Member
- Mar 24, 2014
- 3
- 0
- 2
Hey guys! Well like I said I did lots of test and the last thing now on the list was a compression test on the cats. I was in the garage today looking over the vacuum lines and it came to me! Did I clean the IAC? So out came the tools and the cleaner. I took the throttlebody so I can clean all the nooks and crannies. I clean the IAC about three times and popped it back in. Started the car up and SHIZzZAAAMMM! No more rough idle and surging throughout acceleration. There is a very small idle surge, about 10-20rps(at idle) so I think I have to adjust the it a bit.
94Mustahang
New Member
- Mar 24, 2014
- 3
- 0
- 2
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