GToddyT5
Founding Member
It's really hard to beat the value of a 2V PI GT, they're so cheap and can be in the 12s with bolt-ons.
I am looking at a 2004 GT, let me know if this is the wrong place to post...
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Crzyhrse
Active Member
erroneous
Stock for stock, it's a driver's race. Modded Mach 1 vs stock GTO, I wouldn't go as far to say "easily". If that GTO is modded, it's trouble.
This makes no sense. Stock for stock, a driver's race, but modded Mach vs. stock GTO, the Mach won't win easily. 
Did I ever mention the GTO being modded? No.
GToddyT5
Founding Member
What about that was difficult to understand? With the cars being that close in performance, basic bolt-ons isn't going to make a Mach 1 walk a GTO. A few tenths isn't easily. With a consistent driver, yes, but otherwise, it can be made up for.
You have to remember that there are two GTO engines. the 350hp LS1 that is a good match for a Mach 1 and the 400hp LS2 that could easily put a stock Mach in its place.
I also have read that the GTO has launching problems because of axle hop, and that it is tough to get a wide tire under the rear because of the depth of the wheel well. Also, there arent alot of aftermarket wheels that fit them either. All of that makes launching them harder than the mustang. Both GTOs though have greater displacement than the mustangs so highway rolls prob arent a good idea for the Machs either, unless there are some serious power adders.
If you really can get a Mach for 16 with 35k, I am game, but not for 18. Someone has a 6k mile Mach 50 miles away for just under 20K. Does anyone know of Machs going for that kind of coin? 35k miles 5 speed for about 16 in exelent shape?
I also have read that the GTO has launching problems because of axle hop, and that it is tough to get a wide tire under the rear because of the depth of the wheel well. Also, there arent alot of aftermarket wheels that fit them either. All of that makes launching them harder than the mustang. Both GTOs though have greater displacement than the mustangs so highway rolls prob arent a good idea for the Machs either, unless there are some serious power adders.
If you really can get a Mach for 16 with 35k, I am game, but not for 18. Someone has a 6k mile Mach 50 miles away for just under 20K. Does anyone know of Machs going for that kind of coin? 35k miles 5 speed for about 16 in exelent shape?
Crzyhrse
Active Member
So I guess he needs to run 12.7's to include the word "easily" in his sentence. OK, my mistake.
mid to low 14's, some dip at 13.9
I feel that TB change, almost at a 120K and my thermostat is going bad, need to remove the tb for that, the mustang doesn't need alot of service, idle air controlers are bad from time to time but nothing really to worry about
This forum is hopping alot :SNSign:
04fullitgt
I shower with poo
Stick with the Mach over the LS2 GTO, I drove my buddies goat at the track (he was to young to drive it
) I couldnt get it any faster then a 13.89, its an automatic but still 400hp and a 13.89? Never drove a Mach but I rode in one, definitely faster than the gto IMO
) I couldnt get it any faster then a 13.89, its an automatic but still 400hp and a 13.89? Never drove a Mach but I rode in one, definitely faster than the gto IMOGTO are fatt pigs they feel like a powerful bus but check this out
http://www.internetautoguide.com/usedcars/24-int/ford/mustang/mach-1/index.html
Coming from a blown 2v, I'd say go for (in this order):
LS2 GTO
Mach 1
LS1 GTO
2v
The LSx engines just have so much potential with the heads/cam options out there it's ridiculous. Buddy of mine has TEA Ported TFS Heads-ECS Cam and they are a big reason why he is putting down just shy of 500rwhp N/A while still being very streetable and on the stock sb. You are not going to get that from a Mustang mod motor (especially 2v) w/o F/I, internals, and fuel. Each vehicle has it's positives (you could even go for a 01 2v w/ 60k miles on it, slap a KB and have an instant 400rwhp for less than $18k. Problem is you would already be behind the curve in terms of suspension. So there is always something... btw my 2v dyno'd 231rwhp stock which unfortunately is above avg. for a bone stock dyno.
Edit: Gotta love the the VW/Audi 2.0T, able to extract a pretty decent amount of power with very little (have an 06 2.0T Passat as the DD)
LS2 GTO
Mach 1
LS1 GTO
2v
The LSx engines just have so much potential with the heads/cam options out there it's ridiculous. Buddy of mine has TEA Ported TFS Heads-ECS Cam and they are a big reason why he is putting down just shy of 500rwhp N/A while still being very streetable and on the stock sb. You are not going to get that from a Mustang mod motor (especially 2v) w/o F/I, internals, and fuel. Each vehicle has it's positives (you could even go for a 01 2v w/ 60k miles on it, slap a KB and have an instant 400rwhp for less than $18k. Problem is you would already be behind the curve in terms of suspension. So there is always something... btw my 2v dyno'd 231rwhp stock which unfortunately is above avg. for a bone stock dyno.
Edit: Gotta love the the VW/Audi 2.0T, able to extract a pretty decent amount of power with very little (have an 06 2.0T Passat as the DD)
I am sure you know they are under-rated from the factory then. 200 is their claim hp, but they dyo at the wheels on the A4 at about 175, with 20% driveline loss with Quattro and thats about 220hp crank. The GIAC gives it a good 30whp and about 45 crank and up to 80 crank tq, prob 50 wtq. Great engine, with a K04, they are running about 300 whp and big turbo kits are rumored for the summer at at least 400hp. Amazing for sure.
I think I have settled on a 2004 GT 5 speed if I get a RWD car, 2004 Buick Rainier/Olds Bravada AWD 4.2 I6 if I go SUV, or the 2002-2003 Audi A4 5 speed if I go sedan.
I think I have settled on a 2004 GT 5 speed if I get a RWD car, 2004 Buick Rainier/Olds Bravada AWD 4.2 I6 if I go SUV, or the 2002-2003 Audi A4 5 speed if I go sedan.
That's actually pretty close to stock GT times. I ran a 14.1 with my 2003 GT in bone stock condition.
Really good drivers have hit 13.9 with stock GT's. Then you also see GT's running 14.7's at the track. SO yeah, it depends on the driver.
Thats good to hear. I used to have a 1994 Ford Taurus SHO with the 3.2L Yamaha V6. I always used to race the 99+ GT mustangs and was about 50%. The Taurus had a rediculous top end with a 7K redline, but since I had the Auto, when my car hit 3rd gear at about 80mph, it just stopped pulling. Because of these experiences I figured they were mid to high 14s, good to hear they can be coaxed into faster times with a good driver.
Also I am pretty sure I just crossed the Audi A4 off of my list, just too slow, dyno 120-135whp stock, mid to high 16 second car. Not me. I have always known this, but thought I could deal with a fully loaded Audi thats fun to drive, but slow, I cant.
Thanks for the info, Hope to be an owning member in a few months..
Also I am pretty sure I just crossed the Audi A4 off of my list, just too slow, dyno 120-135whp stock, mid to high 16 second car. Not me. I have always known this, but thought I could deal with a fully loaded Audi thats fun to drive, but slow, I cant.
Thanks for the info, Hope to be an owning member in a few months..
The 4.6L Mustangs are also more of a top end type of car. Under 3000RPM they don't really have a lot of grunt. If you are in 2nd gear at 2000RPM and punch it, you would probably get beat by a school bus.
However, 3000RPM and above the motor screams. I love taking friends for a ride, holding it at 3000 and then punching it and watching their head snap back as the RPM's climb.
With stock gears, it's a good highway car. I love driving on the highway because just barely rolling on the throttle on 4th gear can instantly zip you along for passing cars and whatever.
As long as you keep the revs up, it's a pretty snappy car. You kinda have to drive it like an import if i dare say that by using the top end of the RPM range.
35thGTLimited
Active Member
Lots of good advice, with some bad here and there also. Honestly, I think it's best to keep an open mind when sizing up cars, especially if you've never owned one.
A GT is certainly the best deal, you can get a very new car for cheap. But, I think it's very very important that you at least drive, if you haven't already, a IRS mustang, so you can appreciate it a little. To be honest, the live axle is the only thing I absolutely hate about my car. That plus the 4V is good enough reason to consider, but if you absolutely must save the money, for 15k I'm not sure you'll find a better car than a GT, but be sure and buy a set of springs, make it your first mod, to help with the ackward rear end traveling around.
Not to judge anyone or anything, but I really doubt the B7 could take out a PI 4.6, if they are raced perfectly. I don't own one myself, but my friend bought a '06 A4 B7 S-Trim, very nice car, I love it. I've driven it quite a bit, he lets me use it when he comes down to PA. Anyways, though certainly quick, and probably my favorite engine ever built, doesn't seem like it's enough to take out a stang, not stock anyways. He has the, I can't really remember now, I think APR 93, software, um, some exhaust work, suspension and brakes, cold air, and some other misc stuff. I love mustangs as much as the next guy, but if I were you I'd keep the Audi, or if you can have both, and keep the stang for fun, like I did, then go with the cheaper GT.
Also, from my own, personal experience, a PI GT will run with a GTO, though highway runs will lean toward the GTO, and a bolt on GT or Mach1 can easily run with the 400hp version, they're "extremely" heavy, people don't always account for this. Anyways it's not like I've driven 100 of them, I'm just saying from the few I've seen here at our local airport. There's a nice black one that comes a lot, it's all stock, beats most cars no doubt, but if my car can keep up they can't be too fast. I'm not a great driver either, good I guess, I dunno, but he got me by a hood lenth the first race, the second race I got him by 2 cars, and I was pulling pretty hard. Though I'll be the first to admit, my car seems to pull better than what's typical on the highway, always has dunno why.
It's been my experience that each car can be very different from the next. Of the mustangs I've owned, no two ran anywhere near the same, all different.
If you get a mustang, get a Mach 1. Otherwise do suspension work right away, because going from a B7 to a GT is going to drive you insane.
A GT is certainly the best deal, you can get a very new car for cheap. But, I think it's very very important that you at least drive, if you haven't already, a IRS mustang, so you can appreciate it a little. To be honest, the live axle is the only thing I absolutely hate about my car. That plus the 4V is good enough reason to consider, but if you absolutely must save the money, for 15k I'm not sure you'll find a better car than a GT, but be sure and buy a set of springs, make it your first mod, to help with the ackward rear end traveling around.
Not to judge anyone or anything, but I really doubt the B7 could take out a PI 4.6, if they are raced perfectly. I don't own one myself, but my friend bought a '06 A4 B7 S-Trim, very nice car, I love it. I've driven it quite a bit, he lets me use it when he comes down to PA. Anyways, though certainly quick, and probably my favorite engine ever built, doesn't seem like it's enough to take out a stang, not stock anyways. He has the, I can't really remember now, I think APR 93, software, um, some exhaust work, suspension and brakes, cold air, and some other misc stuff. I love mustangs as much as the next guy, but if I were you I'd keep the Audi, or if you can have both, and keep the stang for fun, like I did, then go with the cheaper GT.
Also, from my own, personal experience, a PI GT will run with a GTO, though highway runs will lean toward the GTO, and a bolt on GT or Mach1 can easily run with the 400hp version, they're "extremely" heavy, people don't always account for this. Anyways it's not like I've driven 100 of them, I'm just saying from the few I've seen here at our local airport. There's a nice black one that comes a lot, it's all stock, beats most cars no doubt, but if my car can keep up they can't be too fast. I'm not a great driver either, good I guess, I dunno, but he got me by a hood lenth the first race, the second race I got him by 2 cars, and I was pulling pretty hard. Though I'll be the first to admit, my car seems to pull better than what's typical on the highway, always has dunno why.
It's been my experience that each car can be very different from the next. Of the mustangs I've owned, no two ran anywhere near the same, all different.
If you get a mustang, get a Mach 1. Otherwise do suspension work right away, because going from a B7 to a GT is going to drive you insane.
I love my car, and stock, no it wont beat a 2v GT. Its a 15.0-15.4 stock, but with the GIAC 93, almost same as APR 93, they have some nuts. Some have dipped into 13.9 but low 14s is what to expect, and only from a dig. They loose their AWD advantage from a roll. It is still a fast car, but with 2 liters trying to race V8 or V6 cars with high hp, its over on the highway.
I know going from a B7 to a Mustang is going to be hard at first, but honestly I am living outside my means right now. I got a great deal on it when I leased it, it leased as well as a new cobalt SS/SC. I am 21 and am spoiled because of this car. My cars residual is $25,700, not even close to what I can afford. That makes it a $450 car payment, I want to be around $300. If I could afford to keep my car, I wouldnt think twice, might even try to find an B7 Avant to trade for but that is out of the question. My parents will help me pay my mileage charges and I will finance my next car on a BUY. I am looking to spend around 15K so I can maybe buy a $115K condo with my girl this summer. The way I look at it is, I would be happy with a mustang GT 5 speed fully loaded, and it so happens they are giving them away since the 05s came out. Now I just need to figure out if I want an SUV, if I dont, I will get the Mustang.
A car that is still in the picture if I can afford one is the MKV GTI with the 2.0T engine. Love that car, and has some utility with its hatch. Weighing 400lbs less than my Audi means chipping it gives you mid to high 13s easy.
I know going from a B7 to a Mustang is going to be hard at first, but honestly I am living outside my means right now. I got a great deal on it when I leased it, it leased as well as a new cobalt SS/SC. I am 21 and am spoiled because of this car. My cars residual is $25,700, not even close to what I can afford. That makes it a $450 car payment, I want to be around $300. If I could afford to keep my car, I wouldnt think twice, might even try to find an B7 Avant to trade for but that is out of the question. My parents will help me pay my mileage charges and I will finance my next car on a BUY. I am looking to spend around 15K so I can maybe buy a $115K condo with my girl this summer. The way I look at it is, I would be happy with a mustang GT 5 speed fully loaded, and it so happens they are giving them away since the 05s came out. Now I just need to figure out if I want an SUV, if I dont, I will get the Mustang.
A car that is still in the picture if I can afford one is the MKV GTI with the 2.0T engine. Love that car, and has some utility with its hatch. Weighing 400lbs less than my Audi means chipping it gives you mid to high 13s easy.
for a daily driver i would take a gto over a sn-95 mustang any day. Im lucky and can have my cobra and not have to dd it and drive anything on my lot that i want.
