I Finally Went to the Track

I don't know if you were doing a burnout before each run but it's not a good idea. All you need to do is stay out of the water and just get up there and get the tires to spin a rev or 2 and pull out of the burnout. You don't want smoke. The hotter the tires get the more slippery they get with radials. Drag radials and slicks you want them smoking. This is what has worked best for me. Also like sharad said about raising rpms and slipping the clutch works good. That was the way I pulled a 1.9 60ft on street tires with a stock motor and just a couple bolt ons. 13.6@99mph.. I was pretty happy with that.

I never touched the water all night. The first couple of runs I didn't do any burnouts and I was wasn't going faster than 14.6's. So I started doing quick little burnouts and that's how I pulled off the 14.4 runs.

I tried launching anywhere between idle and 2k. Every time she spun just like it was on ice and couldn't grab traction until 2nd.
 
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Try starting at 3500 and just feathering the clutch a bit. Leaving the line at 2 k will get you crappy 60 ft times. I was blowing past my brother off the line when I was running 13.6. He eventually caught up to me but he was running 13.0 at 108 mph his 60 ft times sucked because he was leaving the line at 2k. Should be a 12 second car easily but he can't get the launch down. IMO it's the hardest part of drag racing.
 
Well here's an update from almost a year ago.

I ran last night after some upgrades, but not driving the car for ten months. I had a hard time launching and shifting. The track was packed, so I only could run four times. This was the first time I ever ran at London and only the second time I went down a drag strip. This time I had a 1/2 a tank of gas, spare tire and jack, and I forgot about adjusting my shocks and struts.

So here's what I changed from last time:

GT40Ps
Explorer intake (ported lower)
TFS stage 1
FRPP shorty headers
180 thermo
FRPP driveshaft
Stock air box w/ paper filter
Still have stock 60mm throttle body
Timing @ 14 degrees

I feel my best time wasn't that great, I think I can get more out of the car. This was on street tires with a one-wheel-peel.

1/4 - 14.0372 @101.1 mph
1/8 - 78.21 @9.1120 mph
60ft - 2.0832
 
With your MPH it should be in the 13's easily. With a 70MM TB and the rear end fixed you should be deep in the 13's.

Here's what 290HP at the wheels looks like, 13.6 @ 106MPH on street tires. Had 4 runs all identical the same night.
85d96eef.jpg


Here's what 241HP at the wheel looks like, 13.7 @ 100MPH on street tires. Had 3 runs all identical the same night.
c10e761c.jpg
 
Not too bad for a very lightly modded fox. A traction lock rebuild is cheap and not too hard to do, and gives you a lot of results. Just search the alternative clutch setup, get a F150 S Spring if you can, although not nessasary. It makes a huge difference without killing the bank or street manners. The next step is tires, those low profile tires with their stiff sidewalls are doing you zero favors. Appropriate sticky tires will help as well. Those wheels on there now are heavy, and wheel weight makes a difference. Some drag radials alone would be nice, slicks even better. I'll tell you this, a set of ET Streets on some welds or even some old 10 holes or even turbines would really wake up that car.
 
With your MPH it should be in the 13's easily. With a 70MM TB and the rear end fixed you should be deep in the 13's.

Here's what 290HP at the wheels looks like, 13.6 @ 106MPH on street tires. Had 4 runs all identical the same night.

Here's what 241HP at the wheel looks like, 13.7 @ 100MPH on street tires. Had 3 runs all identical the same night.

Thanks for the time slips, now I feel like I have hope. Last year the car did best by winding out 3rd gear instead of going into 4th. This year with the new combo I had take it thru 4th to the end, so the power band is very different.
 
Not too bad for a very lightly modded fox. A traction lock rebuild is cheap and not too hard to do, and gives you a lot of results. Just search the alternative clutch setup, get a F150 S Spring if you can, although not nessasary. It makes a huge difference without killing the bank or street manners. The next step is tires, those low profile tires with their stiff sidewalls are doing you zero favors. Appropriate sticky tires will help as well. Those wheels on there now are heavy, and wheel weight makes a difference. Some drag radials alone would be nice, slicks even better. I'll tell you this, a set of ET Streets on some welds or even some old 10 holes or even turbines would really wake up that car.

My Trac-lok rebuild is scheduled for this winter along with rear disc swap and upper control arms. What is the benefit of the F150 s-spring? I'd love to try some DRs someday, just as long as I don't rip any torque boxes.
 
My Trac-lok rebuild is scheduled for this winter along with rear disc swap and upper control arms. What is the benefit of the F150 s-spring? I'd love to try some DRs someday, just as long as I don't rip any torque boxes.

The traction lock rebuild should be done NOW. Too easy and cheap with too much bennifit and it doesn't require the rear end to be rebuilt or anything. DR's won't rip your torque boxes, slicks might, but not DR's.
 
With your MPH it should be in the 13's easily. With a 70MM TB and the rear end fixed you should be deep in the 13's.

Here's what 290HP at the wheels looks like, 13.6 @ 106MPH on street tires. Had 4 runs all identical the same night.
85d96eef.jpg


Here's what 241HP at the wheel looks like, 13.7 @ 100MPH on street tires. Had 3 runs all identical the same night.
c10e761c.jpg

BTW, what was your combos for 241HP and 290HP?
 
290HP- Stock Block, GT40X Aluminum Heads (Box stock), Crower 15511 Cam Split duration, Scorpion 1.72 rockers (little more lift), Edlebrock RPM Intake, 70MM Throttle Body, Pro-M 77 Mass Air, MAC Long Tubes 1-5/8" w/ 2.5" Collector, MAC Prochamber 2.5", MAC Cat Back 2.5", Pulley's, 24lb Injectors, Kirban Fuel Pressure Reg, 255LPH Fuel Pump, 3:55 Gears, Full Steeda Suspension-Sub Frames, Upper / Lower Control Arms, Springs, etc.

241HP- Stock Block, Stock Heads, Stock Cam, Scorpion 1.72 Rockers, Edelbrock Performer Intake (not RPM), 70MM Throttle Body, Pro-M 77MM Mass Air, Pulleys, MAC 1-5/8" Equal Length Headers, Bassani 2.5" X-Pipe, MAC Cat Back 2.5", Stock Injectors, Kirban, 255LPH Fuel Pump, Same suspension, etc.