I might as well forget the bolt-ons!

01mgvert

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Jan 12, 2004
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In a recent post, I estimated that I could gain around 70 rwhp with $3000 in bolt-ons. This estimate was based upon my reading in Mustang magazines and websites. I thought that this was an accurate estimate, especially when compared to the grandiose claims of manufacturers and sellers who promise gains of 121-144 horsepower (see below). Some of the numbers were for bhp while others were stated as rwhp. Many claimed that these gains were on naturally aspirated GTs, while others acknowledged (in small print) that the gains were from a supercharged GT. How can these manufacturers and sellers continue to practice false (or deceptive) advertising? If I can only gain 40 rwhp from $3000 in bolt-ons, I might as well go supercharged where I am guaranteed over 100 rwhp. Any feedback?

Diablo Predator Performance Tuner–15-20 hp (jdsperformance.com)

Steeda Underdrive Pulley–8-10 hp (steeda.com)

BBK LT Headers–17-23 rwhp (bbkperformance.com)

MAC 2.5" Shorty Prochamber Mid-pipe–22 rwhp (myfordperformance.com)

Magnaflow 2.5" Stainless Steel Cat-back–22.9 hp (proficientperformance.com)

WMS Intake System (CAI, Pro-M 95mm MAF)–18-25 hp (wmsracing.com)

Accufab 75 mm Throttle Body–12 hp (rpmoutlet.com)

Dragon 75 mm Intake Plenum–6-9 hp (dragonperformance.net)
 
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01mgvert said:
In a recent post, I estimated that I could gain around 70 rwhp with $3000 in bolt-ons. This estimate was based upon my reading in Mustang magazines and websites. I thought that this was an accurate estimate, especially when compared to the grandiose claims of manufacturers and sellers who promise gains of 121-144 horsepower (see below). Some of the numbers were for bhp while others were stated as rwhp. Many claimed that these gains were on naturally aspirated GTs, while others acknowledged (in small print) that the gains were from a supercharged GT. How can these manufacturers and sellers continue to practice false (or deceptive) advertising? If I can only gain 40 rwhp from $3000 in bolt-ons, I might as well go supercharged where I am guaranteed over 100 rwhp. Any feedback?

Diablo Predator Performance Tuner–15-20 hp (jdsperformance.com)

Steeda Underdrive Pulley–8-10 hp (steeda.com)

BBK LT Headers–17-23 rwhp (bbkperformance.com)

MAC 2.5" Shorty Prochamber Mid-pipe–22 rwhp (myfordperformance.com)

Magnaflow 2.5" Stainless Steel Cat-back–22.9 hp (proficientperformance.com)

WMS Intake System (CAI, Pro-M 95mm MAF)–18-25 hp (wmsracing.com)

Accufab 75 mm Throttle Body–12 hp (rpmoutlet.com)

Dragon 75 mm Intake Plenum–6-9 hp (dragonperformance.net)


what matters more to you a ## that you can brag about or a time slip

yes they infate the numbers in a way but not always a lot of times they are showing the numbers under peak I mean who cares about peak horsepower how many people drive around at 1 set rpm anyway
just think of this if your going to dop all the labor you can get a good kit for about 3400-4000 but if you have installed add 500$ plus you will need a new clutch + install 500$ and you should have money saved for a new short block 3000$+ thats why it better some times to go the bolt on route
now if you have the cash for it all then get blown

buts that just me
 
ghost4.6 said:
what matters more to you a ## that you can brag about or a time slip

yes they infate the numbers in a way but not always a lot of times they are showing the numbers under peak I mean who cares about peak horsepower how many people drive around at 1 set rpm anyway
just think of this if your going to dop all the labor you can get a good kit for about 3400-4000 but if you have installed add 500$ plus you will need a new clutch + install 500$ and you should have money saved for a new short block 3000$+ thats why it better some times to go the bolt on route
now if you have the cash for it all then get blown

buts that just me

He is right blowers do break a lot of things. Plus its easy to change your pulley to 11 psi or 14psi. Personally i'd still get a blower.
 
GoBabyVroommm said:
He is right blowers do break a lot of things. Plus its easy to change your pulley to 11 psi or 14psi. Personally i'd still get a blower.

dont get me wrong im not saying dont get a blower at all
lord knows if I had the funds I would get one

I just want you to understand what could happen and that how fast it could add up $$$ thats all
 
Some people prefer to go the N/A route it's harder costs more and takes longer to get there than a forced induction motor. However those people probably like doing things the harder way or saying that hey look at my e/t and compare it to your e/t and they are as fast with no power adder, you do have to respect people like that at least in my book.

I however want cheap fast speed so I'll be getting a blower granted alot of those bolts on's will be more worthwile after the s/c but if I blow all my money on bolt on's now I won't get the big seat of the pants grin I want after slapping a blower on. It's all on what you want and how you want to do it.
 
If I'm not mistaken, when manufacturers post numbers, the part they're showing the gain for is the bottleneck in the car. ie when they test a cold air intake, everything else on the car is 100% upgraded and tuned for maximum power. This way, the stock air filter is the only hinderance to good numbers so when they swap it out they actually see the difference.