i think i may be in trouble soon. engine clicking!?

i baby my car beyond no means... but it's always fighting me. here's the summary of my troubles. i have an autometer oil pressure gauge and last time i changed my oil the tube broke off, so i uninstalled it and pluged the hole i had it installed in by the oil filter. no big deal. so i order a new tube kit and install it. also no problem. aparently i'm an idiot though becuase i didn't have the extra tube out of the way and secured well enough. it ended up touching my exhaust while i was driving and unknown to me for a few miles i was just spitting oil. i went about 8 miles before i noticed smoke from the burning oil. i added back the oil i burnt/leaked out (only drove for 15 minutes or so) but i can not get a consistant reading on my dipstick. i thought the level was good though.

here's the problem. i drove the car pretty hard one night only for a few seconds but i was in second gear on a windy road for maybe 30 or 45 seconds so the rpm's were 3000-5500 around these turns. now... i have a slight clicking sound that is rpm related coiming from the engine. i havn't gotten on the car hard since i heard this but it seems like all the power is still there. (i did a full oil change now to make sure the car level is good). would it be a bent valve or maybe some piston/cam problem? i really don't know but i'm angry and i don't want to send a piston through my hood.

sorry it's a long rant but please help me out if you have any ideas
 
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Check oil weight, Spark plug torque.

So how is your oil pressure?

IMO, not likely a bent valve. More likely (if there is a problem) lifter/roller followers.

Will assume a mostly stock engine. Not a special or custom engine. Next, let's assume the tick is present at all RPM's and the engine is at normal operating temperature.

First, are you using the correct weight oil? Many people will use 30 weight oil thinking this will help the late model Fords. The fact of the matter is the engine has been designed to run on 5W-20 weight oil. The thinner oil is needed to adequately flow all the way to the top end.

Second, check the torque on the spark plugs. Remove/replace the plugs. Use anti-seize on the top few threads. Reinstall and torque to the recommended value of 15 Nm (11 lb-ft). Important to use a torque wrench.

Consider buying an oil filter cutter. This will allow inspection of the filter element. Look for metal flicks/shavings on the filter element.

Next get a mechanic’s stethoscope. Probe around the valve covers. Listen at each exhaust valve and intake valve and see if you can isolate the source of the noise.

You may try disabling individual cylinders (disconnect fuel injectors). See if the tick can be isolated to an individual cylinder. Note, the fuel injectors have a "tick" sound of their own. It does sound different through the stethoscope.

If the spark plug re-torque doesn’t fix the tick and you are able to isolate the affected cylinders, replacement of the hydraulic lifters may fix the problem.

My direct experience with a similar problem was on my Son’s 2005 F-150. It developed a mild valve tick that was present at all RPM. Before we could get it checked, the engine dropped a valve. Broke two pistons and one rod. Bent a rod and crack a head. Obviously a big mess.

After the engine swap, I purchased an oil filter cutter. Found the old filter element covered with metal specs. Had I done this sooner, I might have saved the engine.

Good luck.
 
i wish i still lived in houston texas (i moved when i was a little kid) because you really know your stuff and i could use a guy like you around me and my car... because i'm a guy who doesn't really know his stuff. thanks for the advice

Like was said, you need to check the spark plug torque. Do it before you drive the car again. If a plug launches out of the head, it will cost you. Just before the plug launches out a ticking sound is heard. Good luck, check those plugs.

I do not think you should attempt to apply antiseize to the threads, that is tricky and its easy to mess it up by using too much or getting it on the porcelain.
 
the the other two guys have said check your plug torque

these motors tick and can rattle when a plug is just about to come out.. Years ago I heard it happen right next to me to a lightning during a race..


Just before the plug came out the rattle got loud enough for me to notice it over my exhaust and then it lost the plug.