Installation begins....
- Thread starter mijo_latino
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
mijo_latino said:
Cool...! Those are equal length? Stock midpipe? I want to do the same. Can't do long tubes cause I'm too low. Next year I'm going to an O/R mid pipe, hopefully an "H" pipe.
Subscribing...
On Edit: Just saw you're not w/stock midpipe. Post an audio clip sometime if you can.
mijo_latino said:
Wow... make sure you actually finish that project. With the car up on stands like that and the rest of the surroundings, it looks like Arkansas threw up in there. I've seen that whole 'vehicle on the stands in the backyard surrounded in weeds' on Cops a few times before in the background of some crazy domestic dispute or something.
Congrats on the header install though! Good luck with the top starter bolt, and make sure you don't mess up the gaskets when installing the headers. Hate to have a leak somewhere when it's all done!
Does the header to the right in the picture have a slip fit flange on it? I can't tell. but if it does, good luck in getting that to seal!
Attachments
heh, i think i seen todo running around somewhere....
so far, the instructions http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
have been great. everything is going smoothly so far. the bbk header have a couple of slots on the header holes, not all.
only on step 13, lol. i expected myself to go slow, labor day, here i come!
so far, the instructions http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
have been great. everything is going smoothly so far. the bbk header have a couple of slots on the header holes, not all.
only on step 13, lol. i expected myself to go slow, labor day, here i come!
Attachments
RedDaemon
10 Year Member
blackink00
I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
I used to date this girl who lived in Ypsilanti way back when i lived in AnnArbor MI...
What gasket are you using for the header?
What gasket are you using for the header?
thats what sucks about this whole thing. I thought i could just pick up some at autozone as everyone and there mom said they stock copper ones.... well they don't. for now its the bbk ones, but seeing how easy this all is, i will replace those as soon as i need something to do.
It doesn't seem like anything else is in the way once the K is removed, i've stopped following the directions as mine is a 98. we'll see how this goes.
The reason i decided to do this...
(the chaepo fillter! i was in a rush and stopped at a quicky lube place. -5 points, i know)
It doesn't seem like anything else is in the way once the K is removed, i've stopped following the directions as mine is a 98. we'll see how this goes.
The reason i decided to do this...
(the chaepo fillter! i was in a rush and stopped at a quicky lube place. -5 points, i know)
Attachments
XxMustang281xX
Member
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
XXMustangRayXX said:
You look where your stock ancher is and you'll see why its easier to remove K for even shortie
BennyBlown2v
New Member
You might want to remove the spindles too unless you have help mounting the K-member back in place! I took mine off and it saved 30lbs or w/e they weigh Much easier to bench press that sucker in there with them off!
Much easier to bench press that sucker in there with them off!
Just curious, but how are you supporting the engine? Also, how stubborn were the bolts holding the K up? I've been seriously considering some headers lately.
blackink00
I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
XxMustang281xX
Member
well, had to stop early today due to rain. Its been on and off since 5:00. As of right now the passanger side header is in place and just needs to be tightened down. I may have to remove the starter to get to bottom left bolt to tighten down. There is very little room to tighten these bolts. Its not that the car is in the way, its that the headers themselves get in the way. The only way is to have open ended wrenches, even the closed end is too thick to get in between the flange and header pipes. I had to nudge the engine a bit and create an opening from above to get one of the top bolts into place. Sorry, no pics this time.
Bright and early tomarrow. I think it will go fairly quick now.
That's a good tip on the spindles, I guess the whole control arm has to go to get them off?
I have a jack under with a block on the oil pan to support the engine. The k-member bolts had no problems coming off. a couple were a bit worn, but none were seized or anything. Dieffently grab a can of pb blaster and you'll have no worries. I haved sprayed every bolt i've turned to be on the safe side. I was surprised at the ease the header nuts came off.
This car has 126,000 mile all in michigan hence the rust.
Bright and early tomarrow. I think it will go fairly quick now.
That's a good tip on the spindles, I guess the whole control arm has to go to get them off?
I have a jack under with a block on the oil pan to support the engine. The k-member bolts had no problems coming off. a couple were a bit worn, but none were seized or anything. Dieffently grab a can of pb blaster and you'll have no worries. I haved sprayed every bolt i've turned to be on the safe side. I was surprised at the ease the header nuts came off.
This car has 126,000 mile all in michigan hence the rust.
BennyBlown2v
New Member
mijo_latino said:
Nah, you could if you wanted to though! That would make it even lighter
There is a nut on top of the balljoint where the spindle mounts to it. Simply take it off, and smack the spindle with a hammer till it comes loose hah.mijo_latino said:
Is the transmission half-way supported with the oil pan? I wouldn't want to put ALL the weight of the motor on the oil pan, could end up bending it.
LOL man you're telling me about michigan rust - I just got a solid rear out of a 2000 gt with only 50k miles...all michigan miles... Friggin thing had rusted through exhaust, rusted through floor pan in some places...and the shocks and quad shocks on the solid axle were completely shot (like they had no fluid left in them lol)... The catback was LITERALLY rust-welded onto the midpipe...we had to take the catback hangers off the car, then push down on the catback till it CRACKED off the mid-pipe hahahhaa. I sand blasted the piss out of the axle though and now it looks better than my 04 rear end did when i took it out...next up welding the axle tubes and torque boxes WOOHOO.
Day two...
today started a bit later(a guy's gotta eat) and things are going good. both headers are on and im in the process of tightening everything down. This takes a while as a few bolts have to go an 1/4 or less of a turn with the wrench.
Here's how the clearences look. Imagine tring to do this with the k-member still there....
it looks like the bottom right motor mount stud needs to be shaven down about an 1/2" as it hits the header a bit.
today started a bit later(a guy's gotta eat) and things are going good. both headers are on and im in the process of tightening everything down. This takes a while as a few bolts have to go an 1/4 or less of a turn with the wrench.
Here's how the clearences look. Imagine tring to do this with the k-member still there....
it looks like the bottom right motor mount stud needs to be shaven down about an 1/2" as it hits the header a bit.
Attachments
fastangboi
My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.
ive heard that the gains of shortys arent worth the money or time. everybody i talk to that has a modular stang says to go full length.
Similar threads
