Intake manifold help...
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Engine coolant temperature sensor.
For part numbers try Home Page | O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Was considering looking it up for you, but I don't know the model year of your car.
For part numbers try Home Page | O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Was considering looking it up for you, but I don't know the model year of your car.
I appreciate it, just knowing the name helped, I knew it was a temp sensor but now I feel dumb lol. Thanks!
fast97gt
Active Member
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
IMO, we need to determine if this an vacuum leak or an IAC problem.
First confirm that fuse F2.2 and F2.8 are good.
F2=CJB=Central Junction Box,located in driver's kick panel.
Double check for any vacuum leaks. Are all of the lines in place? EVAP purge lines? EGR lines?
Does it run if you hold the throttle open?
Does it run if the MAF electrical connector is disconnected?
Is it missing?
Did you have any issues installing the manifold? Any problems with the gaskets? How did you clean the head surfaces?
First confirm that fuse F2.2 and F2.8 are good.
F2=CJB=Central Junction Box,located in driver's kick panel.
Double check for any vacuum leaks. Are all of the lines in place? EVAP purge lines? EGR lines?
Does it run if you hold the throttle open?
Does it run if the MAF electrical connector is disconnected?
Is it missing?
Did you have any issues installing the manifold? Any problems with the gaskets? How did you clean the head surfaces?
What did you forget to reconnect?
Also did you change plugs or coils when you do intakes? The last intake i did on my mom's Grand Marquis i put in all new Motorcraft coils and plugs when i changed the intake and it ran perfect. Reason i ask is there could have been coolant down the plug holes and make the coil boots swell.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
The coolant in the spark plug wells likely is causing the misfire. The issue now is to figure out if the coolant is still leaking.
Suggest starting by drying the spark plug wells. Compressed air is one method.
If it still leaks coolant, this could also be a source of a vacuum leak.
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts? Follow the pattern? The T-stat cover? New O-ring in the T-stat cover?
Suggest starting by drying the spark plug wells. Compressed air is one method.
If it still leaks coolant, this could also be a source of a vacuum leak.
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts? Follow the pattern? The T-stat cover? New O-ring in the T-stat cover?
You have to follow the torque pattern no matter what anyone says. you're prolly leaking coolant cause you didn't get it torqued right around the water passages. I've done 6 intake swaps, and everytime i do one, i replace every single gasket, o-ring, and inspect every vac hose on the top of the engine. I've only had one fail, and lock washers on every intake bolt and re-torque fixed that issue.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
If the coolant is leaking via the intake manifold coolant crossover, it's possible for it to be sucked into the intake valves. From there it's easy to see how this could get into the oil.
Of course it's possible that large amount of coolant was setting on top of the pistons (you did ensure that no coolant made it down the intake right?) during the 1st startup. If so, this could cause hydro-locking. Obviously, hydro-locking can (and does) break pistons, rods, values and most anything else it wants to.
When ever unknown amounts of coolant (or any liquid) have made it into the combustion chamber, it's a good idea to turn the motor over by hand a before restarting the first time.
Have you located the source of the intake leak? A compression test can help you determine if the motor has been hurt.
Sorry to hear about that.
Of course it's possible that large amount of coolant was setting on top of the pistons (you did ensure that no coolant made it down the intake right?) during the 1st startup. If so, this could cause hydro-locking. Obviously, hydro-locking can (and does) break pistons, rods, values and most anything else it wants to.
When ever unknown amounts of coolant (or any liquid) have made it into the combustion chamber, it's a good idea to turn the motor over by hand a before restarting the first time.
Have you located the source of the intake leak? A compression test can help you determine if the motor has been hurt.
Sorry to hear about that.
Oh he also said that the coolant coming out the exhaust was coolant that dumped into the cylinder. And it will stop after it's been expelled from the motor. When I start it it doesn't turn over on it's on unless I hold the gas. When I do that it runs smooth but smoke comes out the exhaust along with the coolant
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Just wondering what you are looking for.
Have you changed the oil? Is there still coolant in the oil?
Is it still leaking coolant? If so, have you found the source of the leak?
Have you run a compression test?
If it's still leaking coolant, it not just a little that has run down into the cylinders.
We can't help without more information.
It's either an intake leak or the motor is hurt. I guess no one wants to be the one to say, "it's hurt". Sorry.
Have you changed the oil? Is there still coolant in the oil?
Is it still leaking coolant? If so, have you found the source of the leak?
Have you run a compression test?
If it's still leaking coolant, it not just a little that has run down into the cylinders.
We can't help without more information.
It's either an intake leak or the motor is hurt. I guess no one wants to be the one to say, "it's hurt". Sorry.
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