No, I don't have MIL eliminators. Since my x-pipe had cats, I didn't need them. Never had a code thrown because of it.
Is my clutch going out?
- Thread starter Skidzz
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No, I don't have MIL eliminators. Since my x-pipe had cats, I didn't need them. Never had a code thrown because of it.
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maybe start there since they would need to be done soon anyway. plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
Ok, will do. I have another question though. If I were to disconnect a wire from one of the coils, would the CEL not immediately turn on? I just tried it with two different wires, and no CEL. Also, the engine really didn't seem to be all that affected by disconnecting a wire. I was expecting it to run a lot more rough than it did.
i would think the MIL (CEL) would turn on if one of the cylinders misfired, especially if yo[ uhad the wire disconnected. turn the car to accessory mode and make sure the CEL lights up (that is, the bulb isnt burned out).
as for the car not running too rough, its a V8, so there are 7 other cylinders to help balance the crankshaft. thats why it wont run as rough as a 4 banger with one cylinder misfiring.
EDIT: wait. you have PI heads, right? so now you have a coil on plug setup? i was thinking you still had plug wires and a distributer for some reason. if thats the case, you might have a bad coil or two. did you buy them new with the heads? or did you get them used?
Huh? My car had coils stock. It's the 94-95 5.0's that had distributors. Anyway, yea the CEL bulbs is fine, but when I disconnect a wire from the coil while the engine is running, it doesn't come on. I wonder if MD motorsports did something with the programming that would make it stop coming on for a misfire...
you don't always throw the C/E light on mis-fires... it just stores it in memory codes... Try to get it scanned for free at those pep-boys or whatever that does it... and it will tell you if you have stored codes and if you do it should show up as a mis-fire on a certain cylinder, then depending on how old the plugs are, you might be able to get away with just changing the bad one to the SAME brand/make/pt# in the one cylinder (or you can change them all). If it's been hapening for a while you might have washed out the cylinder too and it might take a few runs to clean the fuel out
Another thing is you might just have a bad connection at one of the boots (which is causing the spark to jump) which you will notice by replugging them in...
Another thing is you might just have a bad connection at one of the boots (which is causing the spark to jump) which you will notice by replugging them in...
Thanks guy. I bought new plugs yesterday. I'll put them in tomorrow afternoon, and if that doesn't fix it, I'll do wires next, then maybe coils if necessary. It needs the tune-up anyway, so I wouldn't really be wasting money. If that doesn't work, I'll take it to the damn dealer I guess. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
i was asking if you had the coil on plug design with the new heads like the 99+ do. i guess the 96-98 had coil packs? do you have a pic of your engine bay? anyway, good goin with the new plugs. couldnt hurt anyway
Ok, I just changed the plugs:
1. I noticed that MD did change the plugs and wires when they did the work.
2. The number 3 plug had a white powdery substance on it, so I'm running rich it seems.
3. After I finished, I started the car up and there was definitely a little too much white smoke coming from the tail pipes. Again, I must be running rich.
I used autolite 764's gapped to .53 and torqued them at 13 ft/lbs. I took the car out for a drive and it still seems to be lacking a bunch of power and it's still bucking, although not quite as bad. I'm thinking that I might possibly have a timing problem. What do you guys think?
1. I noticed that MD did change the plugs and wires when they did the work.
2. The number 3 plug had a white powdery substance on it, so I'm running rich it seems.
3. After I finished, I started the car up and there was definitely a little too much white smoke coming from the tail pipes. Again, I must be running rich.
I used autolite 764's gapped to .53 and torqued them at 13 ft/lbs. I took the car out for a drive and it still seems to be lacking a bunch of power and it's still bucking, although not quite as bad. I'm thinking that I might possibly have a timing problem. What do you guys think?
Ok, I checked the #3 plug today, and it's already getting some of that white substance on it. I tested the plug and the spark is fine, so it's not the wire or the coil. I've narrowed it down to the #3 fuel injector. It's either bad, or the connection to it is bad. Tomorrow, I'll check the connection wire. If it's functioning properly, then I think it's the #3 injector. I've been reading it in the manual, and it looks like a total PITA to change an injector. You have to disconnect the plenum assembly and the fuel rail. I want to do it myself tomorrow, but it's my only car and I'm afraid of messing up. Damn it I wish I had a beater. Anyway, how much do you guys think a shop would charge to replace an injector?
40th GT
New Member
Ok I think you have it backwards. White plugs mean that you are running lean, not rich. So I'm thinking that you have fuel delivery problems. (bad fuel filter/ fuel pump) or it might just be a bad batch of gas. Yes, definitely check the injector/fuel pressure.
Ok, so how bad is it to run on a bad injector? I'm thinking that if I don't do it myself tomorrow, it's going to probably be Thursday before I can get it to the dealer.
40th GT
New Member
Do you hear any spark knock? It shouldn't be too bad, just don't floor it everywhere.
No, no spark knock. I've been taking it easy everywhere I go since I found out it was an injector. Like I said, I'll be checking the injector wire tomorrow to make sure it has a current. I've been reading the Haynes manual all night. I'm still not sure if I want to tackle this one. I'm DECENT with repairs, but I only have basic tools and I've never removed that many parts on my car before. If I had a beater, I'd jump right on it, but I can't afford to screw up and not have a car to drive. It would be so much cheaper to do it myself, but I just don't know if I trust myself enough yet...damn it...
Changing an injector is no harder than changing a spark plug. All you have to do is take off the fuel rail bolts, and the rail pops off the injectors. Unclip the bad one, pop in out and reverse for the new one. Shouldn't take more than 15mins, especially if you are only changing one.
Also, you need to release the fuel pressure with either the shrader valve or pop the fuel cut-off and let it run until it dies.
Also, you need to release the fuel pressure with either the shrader valve or pop the fuel cut-off and let it run until it dies.
The haynes manual said that I pretty much have to take the entire plenum assembly off in order to pop the fuel rail off. Do I not have to do all of that?
Hey Skidzz... my car is doing the SAME exact thing... bucking at 2000rpm+ and the shifter begins to shake a lot if i go hard on the gas at low rpms (never did that before). And it's definately not the clutch.
Did you ever find out what the problem with your car was?
Did you ever find out what the problem with your car was?
joshjwc9
Active Member
Definitely a miss in your car.
Probably a plug or COP issue. Pull your plugs and smell them for gas. Then gap them and reinstall if they are fine, take it for an easy drive and see if that is it. If not then check the COP's.
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