Not good. not good at all. minimum: $200 maximum: $500 failed all of the tests. Don't have the #s yet. It is being 'diagnosed' right now.
Emmissions?? Ge tsome GTP, guaranteed to pass. I personally and several others I know have never failed after running it thru my car..
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I know it's running really rich. my AFPR hasn't been able to help, at all with that. I'm hoping I have a bad 02 sensor. There's no way I'm going to pay them to replace my midpipe.
pay someone $100 and youll pass with flyin colors... works for me all the time LOL.... seriously, i dont blame u... my car would definitely fail, just luckily i know the guy who inspects my car
Mine passed everything but the NOx, had to put the timing at about 4* for it to just pass at the limit, after 3 tries. $500? Here they can't charge you any more than $280 under a "conditional pass", meaning you have to take it in next year as well. Good luck, hope its something stupid.
So they told me I needed new converters. and that a Y pipe is $800. I asked them where they pulled that POS dollar figure from, and then asked them why I would want to take true duals and convert it to a single exhaust. He didn't have an answer. I told them I will pay the crap diagnostic fee and come pick up my car. So I just wasted $140 today. Feels great.
That's funny - yesterday I was wondering how you had done with emissions - I figured you were all done and on the road again. Find a local guy whose Stock H-pipe you can borrow indefinitely (or for a day ). WTF, we don't have a Y-pipe. Edit: Y is above H on the keyboard. Got it. If you get some actual numbers, that will help tailor recommendations on what to change.
umm thats why you put on the stock hpipe on for emissions and dont throw it away. theirs gotta be a fellow stangnetter in your area who can let you borrow it heh. my last resort would be to buy some highflow cats.....and weld them into a removal mid section, take the car to a mechanic and let them sniffer test it to see if it will even pass before taking it back to be smogged again
I too, was hoping to have the car licensed this morning. I've been driving it the last eight days with a temp. 10 day permit. I've got the numbers, and will post them below... I actually have a hi flow catted h pipe, with 4 cats. There is a chance that it isn't functioning as well as it once did. It passed the flow test (with a reading of 'good' ). I'm not sure how hold it is, as I didn't install it. Either way, if it is functioning properly, it should allow me to pass the test. Maybe the mechanic made the typo? It was some service geek talking to me, that wasn't any help. Here are the numbers: 40 km/h HC ppm (limit/reading) 57/275 CO% .32/.50 NO ppm 421/1483 Idle: HC ppm 200/1091 CO% 1/.40 (hey look, I passed one!) **One thing I do know, is that I am running rich. I have an AFPR, and it seems to be of no help. Is there a possibility the O2 sensors could be causing this? They are no doubt, 5+ years old.
I would not think an afpr would help you here The more I think about it ... for a Closed Loop situation which is what they test under ... that afpr just might be counter productive to your goal If you're too fat ... backing off the pressure won't make much of a change. What ever change you do get ... it will be the greatest at the time of change and very well could become less as time expires. Another old trick is to have about 1/8 of a tank of gas and dump 80% of a bottle of rubbing alcohol in the tank. Get the motor up to operating temp and just around the corner from the testing place ... drizzle the last 20% of the bottle on the air filter. Grady
Paul, who said I know how to read. Duncan, I'm not a great emissions expert (one of the Chuck's on here is very good as I recall). You passed CO at idle but not under load. CO is just your overall A/F ratio basically (as it seems to me). So at part throttle you're rich. HC as we know is crappy combustion. Ensure you dont have any vac leaks, a slight miss, a burned plug wire, etc etc. Are we real sure the EGR is working for ya? It doesnt look like it. Do you have a way to view PIDs Duncan? With a scanner like an AutoXray 5000, you can see O2 function, EGR function and even if if the TAB and TAD are working (Al - Methodical can help there - he probably remembers what our cars see better than I can). YOu can check your O2 switching with a DMM. Just make sure you dont have an O2 incapable of switching with any amplitude. My first blush thought is that since CO and HC at load are high, it's a slight miss (ignition). Possible? Then the EGR (NOx) is a kinda separate issue. One other thing is that if it's been rich, that might have hurt the cats. Getting a known good set (OEM is better than aftermarket IMHO, unless the aftermarket stuff is brand new) on there should 'mask' a lot of the issues.
first I failed for NOX (EGR no work) then I added G2P and rigged teh EGR full open (hoever found out after I still had a block off plate in there) and I passed NOX but passed HC... Pulled the spout and passed... G2P, Pull the spout, and have at it... This is with a cheap catco pipe with 2 10k mile old convertors on it...
